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I have taken apart several AW50s at this point (Volvo and Saab) and never noticed a TCC solenoid like the one that came off. They have always been round like the replacement you were sent. That's interesting!

The fluid that came out does look wrong- it should be VERY red, or if it's old brown or black. From the photo (on my phone) it looks like it might be contaminated with coolant. That happens when the radiator ruptures internally.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
In this thread the TCC is identical to mine:

Maybe the newer cars were equipped with this kind of solenoid, mine is a 2003.

I hope you are wrong on the oil color, I went out the garage and made more pictures in daylight:

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What do you think? My coolant looks perfect, I don`t think it`s an intermix issue, I really hope it`s not...
 

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Ok, that looks a lot better. But it's TRASHED. You would be well advised to change that fluid.... Since you have the front cover off and the cooler hoses off you have a good start. It should be pretty trivial to cycle new fluid in through the cooler circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Ok, that looks a lot better. But it's TRASHED. You would be well advised to change that fluid.... Since you have the front cover off and the cooler hoses off you have a good start. It should be pretty trivial to cycle new fluid in through the cooler circuit.
Yeah, definitely. What’s the volume and the recommended type?
 

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I think it's like 8 qts in the system, and the transmission calls for old-school Dexron III. I use Valvoline Maxlife (fully synthetic) but any Dex III will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks!

The new solenoid went in easily, I haven`t had a chance to try it out yet. Here`s how it looks bolted in:

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I have some Reinzosil, so that`s what I used to fit the cover.

It`s not related to this topic, but I dropped the sump too. I didn`t find sludge, but some debris in the oil pan, so the effort I put into this s justified, it needs a good cleaning. Also, it was leaking some oil. In fact the only perfectly leak-free part in the engine compartment was the Japanese transmission. The Swedish engineers are not so good at keeeping the oil inside. The car has 98k miles only and had oil changed regularly using a synthetic blend based on the paperwork that came with it.

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Perhaps tomorrow I can start it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Do you guys flush your transmission or just drain and refill it? What tool can be used for flushing? I`ve read somewhere that the transmission`s own pump can be used somehow to pump out all the fluid from the cooler lines.
 

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My .02 cents...

That tranny looks guud..., and yer killin it, in a good way...

Somebody has swapped from semi to full synthetic at least once... The clean spots in the oilpan and crank case say as much. Lets hope they used a sufficient good oil filter at the same time.

The solenoid looking different isnt an issue if it fits properly. Pretty sure my volvo part had the electrical connections at 90° to the saab part, but a year on i have had no problems...

From this point... Refill the trans.... Drive for 100-300 miles... Drain and refill... You will be roughly 95% new fluid.

Always check trans level after at least 20 min drive and in a "level" lot after spending 10-15 seconds in EACH gear... Everything else is junk advice... Granted, after 15-20 min drive, anything between the top lines in park "should" be ok...
 

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Oh.., and, that old fluid is absolutely trash. Trans fluid (atf) gets darker the more moisture and contaminants it absorbs... Kinda Like brake fluid...

Bright clear red is best for trans.. Clear for brakes... Amber for power steering... Oil depends on type...

  1. I do not see an intermixed issue...the pics seem pretty straightforward ...
 

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Discussion Starter #50
How about the filter? My understanding is that it`s not servicable externally. Correct?
 

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Virtually positive replacing the filter requires splitting the transmission. It is essentially not designed to be replaced.

You can do the drain/refill... I'm not sure what Mr. Rabbit is talking about... a drain will remove about 3l of fluid, so getting to 95% new would require at least three cycles and closer to four, mathematically speaking. Most people stop at three cycles and call it good.

If you already have the subframe off, you can use the transmission to pump itself out. There is a howto on the 9-5 board, but the gist is drain the system, fill the system, then disconnect the return line from the cooler, run the motor, and collect another couple liters from the cooler line. Refill, then do it again. Fluid should be pretty clean/clear by then.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
If you already have the subframe off, you can use the transmission to pump itself out. There is a howto on the 9-5 board, but the gist is drain the system, fill the system, then disconnect the return line from the cooler, run the motor, and collect another couple liters from the cooler line. Refill, then do it again. Fluid should be pretty clean/clear by then.
Thanks, I`ll look into this option. Problem is, if the subframe`s off, the exhaust, catalytic converters, lambda sensors are off too, so I don`t want to run the engine like that. But I think I can disconnect the cooler lines when the subframe and exhaust are in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I think I found the procedure you mentioned:
 

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Thanks, I`ll look into this option. Problem is, if the subframe`s off, the exhaust, catalytic converters, lambda sensors are off too, so I don`t want to run the engine like that. But I think I can disconnect the cooler lines when the subframe and exhaust are in place.
That is the procedure I'm referencing... I think it's a tad aggressive, but it's quite thorough. In Volvo land it's generally pump two quarts/fill two quarts a couple times and it's good. You'll see when the fluid flowing out is in good shape.

There is clearance to remove the cooler lines when the subframe is in place, but it's tough to control the fluid coming out due to placement of the subframe. That isn't an issue on the 9-5 (or a Volvo...). If you can droop one side of the subframe that helps, or you can buy some banjo->nipple fittings or you can junkyard a portion of the cooler line. Or, I suppose, just make a mess. BUT, collecting the outgoing fluid in a measurable container is preferable so you know pretty much exactly goes back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
That is the procedure I'm referencing... I think it's a tad aggressive, but it's quite thorough. In Volvo land it's generally pump two quarts/fill two quarts a couple times and it's good. You'll see when the fluid flowing out is in good shape.

There is clearance to remove the cooler lines when the subframe is in place, but it's tough to control the fluid coming out due to placement of the subframe. That isn't an issue on the 9-5 (or a Volvo...). If you can droop one side of the subframe that helps, or you can buy some banjo->nipple fittings or you can junkyard a portion of the cooler line. Or, I suppose, just make a mess. BUT, collecting the outgoing fluid in a measurable container is preferable so you know pretty much exactly goes back in.
Ok, my garage floor is a mess already, so it’s not a big deal. It’s a bit surprising that such a large amount of oil stays in the system since the heat exchanger in the radiator is quite small.
 

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In all automatic transmissions a substantial portion (around 1/3rd) of the fluid remains in the torque converter, and some amount is suspended in the valve body. Mercedes used to actually provide a drain for the torque converter to help address this, but I'm not aware of anyone else that does or did. If you let the trans drip for a few days and empty the cooler, you'll get another quart or so out as the valve body and whatnot empties, but the rest will always remain stuck in the torque converter. Thus, you either need a few drain/refills OR you need to "wait" until the pump pumps new fluid into the torque converter and the old fluid out of the cooler. The advantage of the pumping approach is that new fluid from the sump directly displaces old fluid in the converter, so there is less waste. With the multi drain/refill approach, you basically end up mixing "diluting" the old fluid with new fluid one quart at a time. Which wastes a ton of fluid since you need to drain/refill 3qts in order to net one new quart. Gah.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I see. So when i start seeing clean red fluid coming out from the cooler outlet hose that’s already passed the converter. Makes sense. I have 8 quarts of new atf, i’m not sure if that’s enough for this entire procedure.
 
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