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Definitely complete the diagnostic as jvanbara suggested. I found a map of the pins in the connectors by the battery and at the tcm on here. Somewhere.. But I think that same thread also had the ohm value for the solenoid so you can test it before spending money and tearing into the car. And you can hear the solenoid click if you jump the right pins and it is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Definitely complete the diagnostic as jvanbara suggested. I found a map of the pins in the connectors by the battery and at the tcm on here. Somewhere.. But I think that same thread also had the ohm value for the solenoid so you can test it before spending money and tearing into the car. And you can hear the solenoid click if you jump the right pins and it is good.
Great tips, thanks. I know that thread, it’s a step by step tutorial pretty much.
 

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It's been done by literally one or two people. I considered it, but truly don't think it's worth it unless you own all the parts to do it. Just not a cost effective move.

I'm not following the need to remove the glovebox... Tech 2 plugs into to the OBDII connector on the driver's side, and electrical tests are generally done at the connectors behind the battery. What are you trying to get to behind the glovebox?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It's been done by literally one or two people. I considered it, but truly don't think it's worth it unless you own all the parts to do it. Just not a cost effective move.

Yeah, I guess not. And the insurance company just hauled away my 900S, so it`s too late to pull out the parts :(

I'm not following the need to remove the glovebox... Tech 2 plugs into to the OBDII connector on the driver's side, and electrical tests are generally done at the connectors behind the battery. What are you trying to get to behind the glovebox?
The ECU. ECU receives inputs from the solenoids, that`s how it triggers CEL, I assume. Probably you can reach the respective connections through the harness below the battery, I just don`t know which one is which. The ECU connections are clearly shown in this thread with pictures, so I thoght that`s the easiest to follow:

 

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Wiring diagrams are available via WIS, which is available here:


The two transmission connectors are directly behind the battery, no need to take anything apart at all. Granted, there could be a break between the connector and TCM, but that's pretty unlikely. If testing at the connector yielded no fail, maybe it would be worth going upstream but, again, that's very unlikely.

The 16-pin connector is to the transmission valve body, the 10-pin connector is for the range sensor.

#1 (blk/vlt) is the Shift A solenoid
#3 (grn/wht) is one terminal of the pressure solenoid
#9 (blk/grn) is the Shift B solenoid
#10 (blk/wht) is the TCC solenoid
#11 (grn/wht) is the other terminal of the pressure solenoid

#12 (blk) is to chassis ground, so if you backprobe you can use it as the other side of solenoids. If you're not backprobing, use the ground point on the front of the transmission valve body cover.
 

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For safety of the system... Disconnect the 16 pin connector paying attention to which wires are where on the top. Then using 2 short wires from the battery connect tcc with the positive and touch neg to #12 chassis ground Both in the lower half of the connector. It should click repeatedly with a light/inconsistent touch. Dont do this for more than a few seconds.
You can do all the rest of the tests like resistance and continuity without the potentially wonky reading from back probing and you will want to inspect the connector for corrosion inside anyway..
 

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Probably this is it then:

Btw, just theoretically, if I wanted to convert this car to a stick shift, apart from the trans, clutch, pedal console, shifter, flywheel, instrument panel, ECU, woukd I need anything else? Harness? Subframe? Shafts too? Has anyone done this before?
Yeah, a couple guys posted here about doing it in the recent past. I can point you at another older post where a guy did it (probably already in those other threads). You got most of the list: you need a clutch (clutch plate, pressure plate, slave cyl) which you should buy new. Everything else can be used: Pedal assembly. Master cyl and line to tranny plus line to brake master (they share the fluid reservoir). Shifter, with rod and boot. Console boot with frame, and knob. Transmission, obviously, with rod linkage. Instrument panel, 2002+. You can tweak the ECU with a Tech II. Manual uses a harder rear engine mount. No harness, no subframe all the shafts are the same. Flywheel surfaced. MTF0063 fluid, 2 qts if a 2002+ tranny, 6 if older for flushing. I can't think of anything else.

You should really have a copy of the WIS and EPC to do this: WIS and EPC for Windows - SaabCentral Forums
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hey, I did some diagnostics tonight on the car. Good news is the connectors are in good shape, looks like they haven`t been touched since the car rolled out from the factory.

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Bad news is TCC is apparently shot:

Pin #1 vs ground, around 20 Ohm:
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Pin #9 vs ground:

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Pin #10 vs ground:

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I tried to add 12V to pin #10, nothing happened.

I`m not sure yet if I just order a new one or go to the junkyard and pull a working one. Now I know how to test it and I can do some practise before I start pulling my car apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Have you checked the wiring and run the diagnostics on the solenoid? They almost never fail, especially by '03.
Anything known about what leads to the failure of this solenoid? Should I expect some other issue after replacing the solenoid that caused the solenoid to fail?
 

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TBH I doubt there is a big enough sample base to establish a common cause. There was problems with the early shift solenoids - back in the '90s - but that was fixed before the 9-3 existed... it mostly affected Volvos anyway. If you're sure the solenoid is dead there's no reason to think a replacement won't fix the issue. I would be sure to test it again with the cover off to be SURE it's not a wiring break, either inside the harness between connected and transmission or inside the transmission. That wire is probably 20ga, pretty frail.
 

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My 9-5, which has the same 4-speed transmission, had a problem with the connector on the 1-2 shift solenoid. I took the cover off of the transmission twice, changed out the solenoid for an aftermarket one, and even swapped out the entire valve body with one from a car at Pick-n-Pull, but never looked closely enough at the connectors to see that it wasn't making good contact there. If I had a Tech 2 at the time (I have one now), I could have manually turned the solenoid on and off, or if I had found the right wiring diagram, it looks like I could have applied 12 volts to the connector under the battery. I eventually gave up and drove the car to a shop and paid them $600 to tell me that the connector wasn't seated properly. How I got it on incorrectly so many times, I'll never know, and why it came off in the first place is a mystery to me. This all started after an engine rebuild, but the transmission was never apart, although it was taken out of the car along with the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well, I guess I`ll find it out soon if it`s the harness, internal connector or the solenoid itself. I`ll have to crack the case open one way or the other.
 

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I would say the reason for failure is a crapshoot between too much or too little trans fluid, not servicing the trans, not driving the car, and random failure.

In my experience. Replacing the solenoid has led to no further failures. Take the opportunity to test all the solenoid and wireing while you are in there just to be sure. And flush that fluid.

BTW... good job with the diagnostic process. Keep that level up, and marvel in your own awesomeness when you get it fixed.
 

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... and make SURE you use a suitable flange sealant or a reasonable amount of RTV that will not break off. Loose bits of RTV in the trans will not end well.
 

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Permatex has an auto trans specific sealant. You will have to special order it. Its like $10 on Amazon $14 at AutoZone
#81180

It is the only sealant that i have had good results with on auto trans over the years
 

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I use(d) Reinzosil … it's a phenomenal RTV IMO. It's on Amazon, and any place that sells European car parts should carry it, as its commonly used for VAG and Volvo.
 

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I have a tube of Reinzosil, but didn't think to use that on the transmission. I used the Permatex automatic transmission sealant to reseal the case on one Saab 4-speed transmission I had. I had to replace part of the case because two of the bosses that bolt it to the rear engine mount bracket had broken, and I figured while I was in there, I might as well replace the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
All right Folks, I pulled apart the trans today. I tried to get the upper bolt for the transmission mount but I couldn`t get there with my ratchet and I didn`t want to bend the A/C hose. So I decided to drop the subframe, I wanted to look into the sump anyway. Here are a few pics of the process for someone who might tackle the same task in the future:

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Catalytic converter, subframe off.
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Mount off. Cover and cooler hoses are easily accesible now.

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This is what came off from the hoses. It`s reddish, but I don`t think it should be like this.

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Uncovered. The botton solenois is the culprit.

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On the left is the brand new one from ebay, it was $40 and listed for this car. However, it does not look the same at all.

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The connector faces the other side and the housing is different. Still might fit though.

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I didn`t take it out from the packaging to make sure I can send it back

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Discussion Starter #40
I checked them out with an Ohm meter again.

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I guess I don`t have to keep looking for what`s wrong which is good. Tomorrow I`ll try to fit the new solenoid in. Hope it`ll work.
 
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