SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have - possibly - a free donor T16 from 1991 that I would absolutely love to put into my 85 8v. I imagine the wiring will be a nightmare. I suspect it will take some time. However my primary concern, and question, is whether or not the engine will even fit into the existing motor mounts/engine bay without serious fabrication. If anyone has some experience with these two motors, or this swap, I'd appreciate any comments or concerns.

PS: I understand that the engine swap thing comes up often, the search function stopped working for me the other day. I have no idea why. Sorry for all
you guys who have likely answered this question before. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,975 Posts
8v to 16v

The biggest thing to change is going to be the FI & Loom is'nt it? i gues that would be pretty tricky.

Things' to bear in mind:

You'll need to swap the PS Pump/resevoir if your is the one with the metal resevoire on attached behind the exhaust manifold

Also need to swap both left and right engine mounts

If your 1985 has it's origional gearbox the gearshifter also needs to be swapped.

If i think of anything else i had to do i'll let you know (swapped a front HB T8 for a post 87 T8)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,270 Posts
What advantage will the 16v engine give you? or maybe a better question would be why do you want to do that swap? There is an excelent video available from www.saabtuning.de which you can download using "save target as" from here

The faster of the two very high performance Saabs in the video is an 8v. The slower of the two is the 16v (although obviously still very fast)

The point is I guess that the money you might be spending on this engine swap project might be better invested in a big valve conversion for your 8v head, some nice cams and a bit of standalone ECU. (obviously that little lot would cost more than the engine swap - but you see what I'm getting at)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,270 Posts
I see your N/A ;oops: so putting in a T16 lump would be a bit more exciting. I thought it was a turbo and head work would be better done to a T8.
The fuel injection is independent of the other wiring loom so it is actually probably eaiser than it sounds. What will be tricky and what I can't shed any light on is the setup for the stuff that goes on behind the knee-board in the cabin. Relays, pressure regulators, ect, ect...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,975 Posts
link

What advantage will the 16v engine give you? or maybe a better question would be why do you want to do that swap? There is an excelent video available from www.saabtuning.de which you can download using "save target as" from here

Darm can't seem to download it, I wanna see the super fast T8 (stamping my feet)

Ejenner, any idea what they've done to it? Have'nt seen any posts about putting bigger valves in a T8, i want to put a catcam fast road cam in at some point, guess putting in bigger valves could be an option to, do you have to get the head ground out to accomodate the bigger valves?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
"You won't need to do any fabrication." This makes me very happy, because I can't weld. So the engine itself is a drop-in thing. It's hooking up everything else that's tricky. :cheesy:

"Why do you want to do that swap? "

Well, it's not that I'm dead set on putting a 16 valve turbo engine in my old Saab. It's that the wrecking yard down the road is crushing a 19991 900 turbo at the end of this week, and I have the opportunity to go and get it dirt cheap. Plus it has barely 100,000 on the clock, whereas my old girl is getting up to 250,000. It was in an accident, which is why it can't be saved and I'm just exploring the option of taking the engine.

Those Saabs in the video were very cool, but totally out of my league for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
There is a documented 8v to 16v engine swap document out there somewhere, I think it may be archived on TSN.

The mechanical stuff is pretty simple, it will drop right in (basically). It's not like you're putting a Viper's V10 into the 900... ;)

Anyway, the swap document discusses keeping the 8v's k-jet mechanical injection. Some fabrication is required there to adapt the k-jet injectors to the 16v's EFI injector ports. Relatively simple, some machining required. I've actually seen such a swap done locally, the car is definitely more alive now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,467 Posts
Vince T said:
Anyway, the swap document discusses keeping the 8v's k-jet mechanical injection. Some fabrication is required there to adapt the k-jet injectors to the 16v's EFI injector ports. Relatively simple, some machining required. I've actually seen such a swap done locally, the car is definitely more alive now.
I have that document in a PDF file if anybody wants it, just drop me a pm with an e-mail address.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,975 Posts
k-jet

I was reading about the K-jet earlier, the injectors don't open until the fuel pressures up to 3.3bar, how come it's higher than 16v injectors?

Is it because they are constantly injecting so needing more pressure?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I got the whole car today. Booya! Going to start pulling the engine tomorrow. Why would one want to retain the mechanical injection?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,975 Posts
mech injector

I guess the main reason is it's simpler then the wiring up the ECU, and (if someone confirms it) they actually have higher fuel pressure regulation @ 3.3bar, and it's pretty simple to add a 5th injector for a bit more high end umph.

Good luck anyway, i've just swapped my engine/box (T8 for later T8) and having loads of minor issues!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
883 Posts
Injector pressure between mechanical and electronic fuel injection is not comparable - they are totaly different systems - it's the maximum flow rate that will determin you maximum power limit. At full power electronic injectors are pretty much open all the time anyway -additionaly the injectors are not syncronised with the intake stroke of each individual cylinder - the whole bank just fires once per cycle (twice on cold start).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
While I'm at it, are there any other differences between an 85 8v and a 91 16v that are worth swapping? Did the suspension get uprated or changed, or anything? Does anybody have an opinion on those goofy brake calipers? "yoke" calipers, someone told me they were called.
 

·
Saab Mad
Joined
·
14,069 Posts
You'll probably need the tripod bearings from the donor car, as the inner driver cup size changed at some point. Can't remember when though :roll:

Those yoke calipers aren't goofy - they're very good brakes. However, they require good maintenance and folk complain when they seize up.

If you want to fit the calipers from the donor car, then you'll have to do the whole rear-handbrake converstion - details in the forums. It's a lot of work, including welding.

Being a turbo, the 1991 T16 will have stiffers suspension than your 8v NA. You'll need suspension to match the increase in power.

__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Heh. The yoke on the right seized. Fixed it, now the one on the left is frozen, at least partially. I'll take you're word for it that they are good brakes, I DO like how they feel when they are working properly.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,270 Posts
man that sounds like a gooood project you have there... !! I'm so jealous - so much exciting stuff to do...

Matthew: could he just swap the whole trailing-beam to get rear handbrake working - he's got all the parts - which bit needs welding?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,222 Posts
Hobs said:
Heh. The yoke on the right seized. Fixed it, now the one on the left is frozen, at least partially. I'll take you're word for it that they are good brakes, I DO like how they feel when they are working properly.
In my early days of Saab ownership . . . I had my 8v "yokes" replaced all around. It was because I didn't know about the routine maintenance of flushing the brake lines and neither did the previous owner. Rust builds up at the end of the lines and seizes the caliper.
 

·
Saab Mad
Joined
·
14,069 Posts
ejenner said:
Matthew: could he just swap the whole trailing-beam to get rear handbrake working - he's got all the parts - which bit needs welding?
Welding is for the handbrake lever, and I think also routing for the new handbrake cables.

Someone posted the instructions for the conversion... boxman perhaps?

__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top