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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I blew one of the speakers in my car in the door and am looking to buy a new set for the doors. Can anyone recommend some for my 2004 9-3? I have the 13 speaker system. I don't want to get a new amp or anything, and I am looking for some that have a ton of bass.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Also, you won't get a ton of bass because the 6.5's in the 13 speaker setup don't get the low-low frequencies. Those are sent to the 6x9's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok well let me ask this also. I wan't to get the most bass possible without breaking the bank and getting a subwoofer. Should I go ahead and upgrade the 6x9s too?
 

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6x9's not worth upgrading. They need more power, not new speakers.

Best choices for the doors:
Infinity 62.7i
JBL GTO 627

You need 2-ohm impedance.
Avoid 3-way (triaxial) speakers, as these often have a bridge supporting the smaller drivers which can interfere with the door panel.
 

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Instructions for removal of front door panel

Hi,
Purchased a used 2005 9-3 Linear in Oct and just love this car. Compares to the Bimmer's I have owned in the past.Drives wonderful in the snow here in Colorado. Ofcourse, I got rid of the Pirelli P6 and put on Toyo Proxes TPT. Great tire, low noise and excellent wet handling.
I am upgrading ES1/7 system according to Saba directions with 3 1/2 BA up front, 4" BA rear shelf, adding Kenwood 6X9 to rear shelf amped by a 4 channel Alpine amp. Showed these instructions to my installer and was told it would not be a problem. He however recommended an Alpine 25X4 watt per chanell amp. Is this enough power to run 4 speakers. I am not in to heavy bass music. Just like the bass to be tight and I think the amped 6X9 should do.

I am replacing the front door speakers with 2 ohm Infinity reference and would greatly appreciate it if anyone could show me a thread that shows in detail the removal of the front door panels.
Thanks,

Paul
 

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Thanks. This should help the installer as he has not worked on a Saab.

Told him not to fiddle with any fiber optic cables.
 

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Amp Install?

I am curious how the amplifier is going to be installed, as the Saab system uses multiple amplifiers - isn't that going to conflict? I am of the impression that you could use the speaker-level inputs to run a different amp, but not directly using the Saab system. Maybe I am incorrect?

I wonder if anyone has installed Dynamat on the doors? I hear it really cuts down on road noise, which translates into better sound from the stereo.
 

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TJN said:
I wonder if anyone has installed Dynamat on the doors? I hear it really cuts down on road noise, which translates into better sound from the stereo.
2005 cars send all audio "raw data" over fiber optic MOSTnet. No one has an interface that decodes this that I know of. The cost would likely be prohibitive anyway.

The car environemt is inherently full of noise. The Saab amps run at 1-2% distortion. Converting the speaker level to line level is more than adequate. The only alternative is to to take apart the amps and solder wires to get something close to line level. This is beyond the interest of most people, and all the signals are already pre-EQ'd anyway.

I had Dynamat in the doors... well, one door only. I figured it might help with vibration, resonace, etc. I bought the latest door kit from dynamat with their newer thicker stuff and thoroughly dynamatted the passenger door. I figured I'd see what it sounded like before bothering with the driver's door. Glad I did. No perceivable difference. I thought I gave it a thorough chance because I had indentical speakers in each door. I listened to all kinds of music for about two years occasionally shifting the balance from left to right. Having replaced every speaker in the car and added a 12" subwoofer, I'm on the picky side for audio fidelity. Dynamat did not impress me. Plus it is messy stuff to work with. I finally removed it because I was getting a widow regulator fixed under warranty and did not want the dealer blaming it on the dynamat. They would have cut it to pieces anyway.

Chances are if you own this car for a few years you will end up replacing a front regulator. One more reason not to dynamat the doors.
 

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Amp install

I plan to use the instructions given by Saba. Here is the link

members.iinet.net.au/~mmo/guides.htm

Stock 150 watt 7 speaker system. 2 front dash 3.5" speakers to be replaced with Boston Acoustic S35. 2 rear parcel shelf 4" to be replaced with Boston Acoustic S45. Add Kenwood 6X9 to rear parcel shelf. These will be 2 way and not three way as the signal being tapped from the door speakers does not contain mid and high frequencies. The rear speakers( 4" and 6X9 ) will be amplfied with a 4 channel amplifier after appropriate line output connectors have been placed on to the respective speaker leads. 6.5" door speakers being swapped. No amplifiation.

The stock head unit that amlifies the front dash and rear 4" will be left in place. Amp 1 under the carpet next to the drivers seat will also be left in place.

If you have the factory ES1/4 ( 70 watt 4 speaker )system you will not be able to do this. You need to upgrade to a factory 150 watt 7 speaker system.

Still awaiting a reply as to whether a 25X4 watt amplifier is enough to power the rear 4" and 6X9's. Not looking for thunderous bass, just tight bass. May add a subwoofer later on if need be.

 

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I would not amplify the rear 4" speakers. They are "rear fill" only. The signal is already attenuated, so the signal/noise ratio is low. Amp it and you amp the inherent noise as well.

I would recommend at least 50 W rms per channel for the 6x9's. There will not be much price difference between 25 and 50 w rms. You can go with a 2-channel amp if you do not amp the 4" speakers.

Loud treble and mid from the rear deck has really fallen out of fashion among car audio designers. Many cars used to have all the sound coming from the rear.
 

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Thanks,

I will definitely look in to 2 channel amps for the rear 6X9's and leave the 4" unamplified.

Would it be feasible to put in a 4 channel amp, 2 channels amping the 6X9's and may be at a later date adding small subwoofers - JL Audio 6.5" W3v3 in small enclosures in the trunk.

What are you referring to when you state that the signal to the 4" rear is attenuated. At which point in the circuit is it attenuated - the fiber side I would presume. Also since the head unit drives the front 3.5", I must presume that this signal is also attenuated.

Car is off to the installer on Thursday. Also getting Aux-in cable installed and XM reciver hardwired to the powr supply in cig lighter and the unit is to be placed in the shelf where the ashtray was. Tech2 already done for aux-in. But for this forum, my saab would have been butchered by our geniuses at Best Buy.

Thanks for the help.
 

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The EHU drives the front 3.5" and rear 4" speakers. If you just play with the fader you will note that, at any volume, there is considerably more power going to the front compared to the rear. It's on the order of a 90/10 or 80/20 split. That's what I mean by attenuated.

Here's an old thread with some info on doing line-outs for AMP1. Don't let any shop mess with this.
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85538&highlight=tda7386

The driver in the EHU is a tda7386:
http://www.st.com/stonline/products/literature/ds/4057.pdf
 

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another question

ok, i mite as wel ask a question in this thread since starting a new thread dusnt seem appropriate, plus i mite annoy a few ppl out there. Iv been thinking about upgrading for a while, but never really got around to it. So iv decided to get the saab upgrade from 7 to 13, then to add a sub. One question for u ctrlz if u come bak on this thread. is the saab upgrade exactly the same as the factory 13 speaker system? bcus u mention in the 13 factory fit that the 6 /9s power most of the low frequencies. so when my dealer upgrades the system, is the same gna apply for my car?

reason i ask this is bcus b4 i was sure i was gna use a line out from amp2, but now im not sure which ones the best for my sub.
 

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Shine a flashlight (torch ) in to the center dashboard grill and the front door grills. If you have speakers installed in these locations you have either a 7 or 13 speaker system. If there are two speakers under each front L and R, then you probably have the 13 speaker setup.

You may want to look at the dealer invoice if you have one and that should list what sort of entertainment system you have.

You may also want to check your VIN# with a VIN decoder that has been posted elsewhere on this forum.
 

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Shine a flashlight (torch ) in to the center dashboard grill and the front door grills. If you have speakers installed in these locations you have either a 7 or 13 speaker system. If there are two speakers under each front L and R, then you probably have the 13 speaker setup.

You may want to look at the dealer invoice if you have one and that should list what sort of entertainment system you have.

You may also want to check your VIN# with a VIN decoder that has been posted elsewhere on this forum.
 

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azul_haque said:
ok, i mite as wel ask a question in this thread since starting a new thread dusnt seem appropriate, plus i mite annoy a few ppl out there. Iv been thinking about upgrading for a while, but never really got around to it. So iv decided to get the saab upgrade from 7 to 13, then to add a sub. One question for u ctrlz if u come bak on this thread. is the saab upgrade exactly the same as the factory 13 speaker system? bcus u mention in the 13 factory fit that the 6 /9s power most of the low frequencies. so when my dealer upgrades the system, is the same gna apply for my car?

reason i ask this is bcus b4 i was sure i was gna use a line out from amp2, but now im not sure which ones the best for my sub.
Don't bother upgrading to the 13 speaker as it isn't worth the money. You can get a signal for a sub from the 6.5" speakers in the door that is perfect for a sub.

The 13 speaker upgarde is identical to what you would find in a car that had the system originally.
 

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Mr Ray said:
how can I find out that Saab system I have and how many speakers?
What year is your car? It would help out in the future if you added it to your profile so it shows up over here:

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