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Discussion Starter #1
Guys I'm gonna ask a stupid question about oil. I have always used 0W-40 full synthetic oil in my Saab (I alternate between Mobil1 and Castrol depending on price). I thought it would be good to change the oil in both my cars before our COVID-19 "shelter in place" takes effect tonight at midnight. (I'm in Minnesota.)

I went to Oreilly's because it's close and convenient, but all they had was 5W-40 full synthetic. I bought it because I didn't feel like going anywhere else. My assumption is, now that we are coming out of the coldest months here, the 0W vs. 5W is not a big deal. Am I correct?

I realize this may be overthinking it, but I just wanted to be sure.
 

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Not in these engines, no.. these are some of the hottest running production cars I've ever seen. Given the ambient temp is getting warmer you'll be okay with a 5W. I wouldnt run it in winter though. You'll have less consumption as well, which is a bonus.
 

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I use 5W-40 in my 220,000 mile 2000 Aero. The engine sounds smoother, and oil consumption is slightly less, like 9-5r mentioned. I'm going to keep using it.
 

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Guys I'm gonna ask a stupid question about oil. I have always used 0W-40 full synthetic oil in my Saab (I alternate between Mobil1 and Castrol depending on price). I thought it would be good to change the oil in both my cars before our COVID-19 "shelter in place" takes effect tonight at midnight. (I'm in Minnesota.)

I went to Oreilly's because it's close and convenient, but all they had was 5W-40 full synthetic. I bought it because I didn't feel like going anywhere else. My assumption is, now that we are coming out of the coldest months here, the 0W vs. 5W is not a big deal. Am I correct?

I realize this may be overthinking it, but I just wanted to be sure.
It actually is a big deal. Viscometrics and oil science is a complex topic. The engineers really do the work, and constantly refine what they are doing, faced with pressure to improve fuel economy, reduce emissions, extend oil drain intervals, reduce recycle waste, protect catalytic converters - it goes on and on. The Zinc antiwear additive ZDP is extremely valuable but the oil engineers had to reduce the amount it has, to protect cats etc.
But to answer your question directly: Zero matters.
B235 R asks for 0W40

But the viscometrics of the LK9 engine , SAAB ask for 5W30. Go figure. I did question GM Powertrain about that in 2004 and argued with them. They got tired of me and said STFU and just use 5W30 in that application in that engine.

Here is the thing, Back in the early 80's I was working with EXXON (ESSO in Canada) oil researchers, trying to figure out how to apply the horsepower gains of multi viscosity 5 W30 oils to dry sump race engines. Our F2000 race cars used a derivation of the oil industry recognized four cylinder Pinto Ford OHC engine which was used by everyone for standardized oil testing. At minus 30 C it took two minutes for the oil to get to the Overhead camshaft on start up using 10W30. 5W30 a matter of seconds. Zero W was even better, BUT the oil marketers in sales violently objected to any product with ZERO in it, as they said it would detract from sales, It took another couple of decades for that to change, starting with diesel class 8 engines. BTW aeration of the oil from the dry sump rotors was a big problem and we had to develop 2.5 feet tall cylindrical oil tanks with spill plates to reduce aeration. Recently in the past year Gary Armstrong at ARE (drysump.com) who is the best of the best on dry sumps has developed spintric systems to reduce oil aeration.
I digress

One thing is for sure, with the time I spent BITD with GM powertrain and before that with SAAB engineering in Sweden, I would never second guess them....stick with the spec they detail Couple of stats to encourage you.: 90% of engine wear occurs on start up. The principle cause of engine failure is "no oil in the engine", That wear on start up occurs no matter what the temperature, Its just worse in cold weather. That said one oil change cycle with 5W40 wont kill the engine And practically speaking as engine wear sets in at 350,000 miles oil consumption may be an issue and increasing the viscosity might help that. I just would not do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@qwikredline Sounds like it won't kill the engine this one time. If it was January I for sure wouldn't do it. Now that we are rolling into April, with temps looking to be in the 50s and 60s F, I am less concerned.
 

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What year is the car?

The 2000 manual says "Basic recommendation for Saab engines SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40. 5W30 can also be recommended ... must be... semi or full synth and... ACEA ...A3/B3"

2004 manual says "For gasoline engines, SAE 0W-30..." with no alternatives mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What year is the car?

The 2000 manual says "Basic recommendation for Saab engines SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40. 5W30 can also be recommended ... must be... semi or full synth and... ACEA ...A3/B3"

2004 manual says "For gasoline engines, SAE 0W-30..." with no alternatives mentioned.
Yeah my 2006 manual doesn't mention 5W anything, whereas the earlier manuals do. It only recommends 0W-30 or 0W-40, full synthetic. Normally I'd just go return it but I'm trying to minimize going places now, obviously. I really don't think it's gonna be a big deal to use it one time.
 

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I wouldn't go by what a 2000 manual says, since those are cars that were subject to sludging for multiple reasons, one of which was using oil that wasn't well suited for the engine.
 

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It's what's posted in the workshop information service manual aka WIS. I haven't looked in my owners manual but anything from 2006-2009 would be more current than my 05 owners manual. WIS tends to be more reliable in that regard but qwikredline seems to know his sh#@.
 

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How many miles are on your 9-5? I use 0W-40 in my 2001, which has a freshly rebuilt engine, but the 2000 with 220,000 miles just sounds too rough with 0W-40. An engine rebuild is in that car's future, or if we decide to get rid of the 2001 one of these days, I'll just swap engines or part the car out and keep the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not in these engines, no.. these are some of the hottest running production cars I've ever seen.
Why do you think these cars are so hot? These are the hottest engine bays I’ve ever felt, hands down. I know they have turbos, but lots of cars have turbos and don’t seem this hot! Crazy temps.
 

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Why do you think these cars are so hot? These are the hottest engine bays I’ve ever felt, hands down. I know they have turbos, but lots of cars have turbos and don’t seem this hot! Crazy temps.
All Forced Induction cars I know are very hot under hood. The cobalt 08/10 turbo GM had to delete the hood blanket. I think that plastics and wiring and hoses suffer from the heat. Motors last forever. They must like it
 

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You guys changed my mind. I returned it and got Mobil 1 0W-40. Thanks!
You are overthinking it. 5w40 would have been fine.

There are no oils in north america (that can be readily found) that still meet gmlla25 spec that the saab 9-5 calls for, not even mobil 0w40.
GM says it has been superseded by dexos 1 and dexos 2 oils, but neither of those specs are a adequate replacements.

A full saps oil with a high HTHS (3.5+) is what the Saab would have originally called for.
Next time your shopping for oil check the specs on the back, if it has ACEA A3/B3 or ACEA A3/B4 you should be fine.

As for cold starts... Its gonna have to be pretty freaken cold for you to get any benefit from using a 0w oil.
 

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Interesting discussion. I love oil threads. I have owned 5 9-5 Aeros, and change the oil at 3000 miles with full synthetic Mobil1 15w50. I live in southern California and the coldest we get is frost a couple times a year. Cold starts are not an issue here. I do remember the when I live in Quebec, New England, and the mid-west.

My current 9-5 is a 2000 Aero wagon Stage 1 with a balance shaft delete, forged piston, well built engine. it has 50,000 miles since rebuild.

I am hooked on Walmart on-line ordering. Free 2 day shipping on $50 orders. At $22 usd per 5 gallons I buy 3 jugs at a time. Biggest reason is the retail Walmarts rarely have this viscosity in stock.

I do keep an eye on oil pressure. I have an accurate 150 psi aircraft sender installed along with an accurate digital gauge. On a really cold start I will get a momentary 65-70 psi. When fully warm at idle on a hot day it can read 17psi.

Underhood temps are high on these cars. I have installed a thermo switch circuit that turns on the low fan after shutdown and stops the engine from heat soaking. On a hot day it will cycle for quite a while. This tiny circuit fits in the fuse box.
 

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Specs change. Updated oils will look after your saab fine. I participated BITD in scientific testing showing the efficacy of zeros multigrades. That you can trust Mobil 1 OW40 is without question in my mind. I totally disagree with too frequent oil changes. I do it on time regardless of mileage and maintain oil level religiously. I also add GM EOS 250 mm each change. That is a little overkill. But I do it anyway. And others on here have their own overkill ideas. I think Andy made a good decision
 

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I am hooked on Walmart on-line ordering. Free 2 day shipping on $50 orders. At $22 usd per 5 gallons I buy 3 jugs at a time. Biggest reason is the retail Walmarts rarely have this viscosity in stock.
I wish it was as convenient here.
In Toronto there is something strange going on with the motor oil market. The prices of oils are always artificially high, were talking 55-65$ cad per jug for mobil1. Then every week an oil will go on "sale" for 45% off to what I consider being the actual price. The stores will just cycle putting a different oil on sale every week. About three times a year mobil1 goes down to about 24$ cad, I usually wait for that sale and stock up on a few jugs.

Specs change. Updated oils will look after your saab fine
Honestly you can run pretty much any synthetic 5w30,0w30,5w40,0w40 and be fine.
Specs definitely do change, but I feel like gm has cleaned their hands of the saab brand and these specs were not designed with the B235R in mind.

Quickly here are my two main gripes with dexos

Dexos1 oils are resource conserving, meaning they are designed to shear down for better fuel economy.

Dexos2 oils are geared toward diesel engines. They are all low/mid saps to prevent damage to DPF's and other emissions equipment. Our saabs dont require a low saps, so I prefer to use full saps for those additional additives.

You'd be hard pressed to find any dexos oil in the 0w40 flavour

I participated BITD in scientific testing showing the efficacy of zeros multigrades. That you can trust Mobil 1 OW40 is without question in my mind
Definitely! No doubt in my mind that 0w is superior in extreme conditions. But it being April i reckon that 5w40 would have been just fine for Andy.
 
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