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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
So i havent changed the gearbox yet. Just an observation i have. So ive noticed that with the gearbox hot it wont go into reverse car off or on but after resting for awhile and its cold it will sometimes go into reverse while off, havent tested with car running Although it has rested for awhile other times and i couldnt get the key out.

Its just a few days in a row where ive parked at school at a slight incline (car would roll back) and i cant get the car into reverse off off or on. By the time i go out for lunch at 11:20 i can get the car into reverse with it shut off after going into a few other gears. I find that interesting

Id also mention that i park at work for the same amount of time and when i come back to the gearbox cold i cant get the key out with the car while parking on flat ground so i guess its all just coincidence or the different inclines i park at changes something.
 

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sounds like you have something hanging up on the mechanism, you can always remove the lockout.
As for the bench bleed you just use a small clear length of tubing fill partially with fluid and manually push the slave in and watch the bubbles come out,leave the metal tube full of fluid and put a cap on it, then use the motive for the upper portion after you connect them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
ive had 0 luck with the motive bleeder and have to use the pedal half way down every time to finish it off... also ya i had a friend whos reverse gave out and he just removed the lockout so he can get his key out in first gear etc. im going to most likely just buy a GS short throw which essentially does the same thing and rebuild the linkage with metal parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Also any tips for aligning linkage thats worn? I feel like no matter how i align the shifter i can get the holes to line up under the boot, Tighten it all back up and after selecting a few gears and going back to 4th to check alignment the hole is no longer aligned because the whole shifter rod while in gear just moves in and out.

Im assuming i should be putting the shifter as far back as possible in 4th gear and thats where the hole should line up but with extra slop it sounds un reliable
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
So the same thing happened today at school came out 7 hours later and the car was able to shift into reverse but when I park there in the morning I could not get the car into reverse no matter how many tricks i tried. I did finally get the alignment 100% when I put the car in 4th gear the holes line up under the shifter boot, I just had to try a few times adjusting for linkage Slack to get it perfect. (More. Like 10 times )

I think because of that it's safe to assume I don't have a linkage problem nothing changed with the linkage from morning to afternoon and it magically wants to shift, I suppose some sort of mechanism thats metal is expanding when hot causing a blockage and then Contracting when cold freeing up everything.


Its raining heavy today so i cant work on the car but i am testing to see if i can get the key out in my driveway after the gearbox has cooled down. So far in my experience i have not been able to get the car into reverse when im parked on a flat surface after waiting 4+ hours.. Its all just very bizarre to me. Ive tried multiple times after coming out from work and it never goes back into reverse but will go into reverse every time at school.

Any logic behind this other than what i mentioned earlier about metal expanding and contracting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
Hey i have nothing better to do than post 100 times sorry for the spam guys, So i just got the car into reverse after stalling the car in third gear.

I was testing the function of the clutch the way JZW recommended. Basically to test the clutch he said to put the ebrake on give a small amount of gas and let the clutch out. Stalling instantly means clutch is good (which is what my car did) i already knew my clutch was performing ok but i was browsing the forums and decided id check it anyways.

Normally i let the clutch out in first and third gear just enough to where i start to feel the clutch grab and i guess that just wasnt enough to line everything up. It seems releasing the clutch by stalling did the trick for some reason.

I did read a million times to let the clutch out in first or third gear and then try reverse i guess i just wasnt letting it out enough for my gearbox
 

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The shifter alignment shouldn't be that sensitive or fragile. If the alignment is slipping, there's either a simple physical reason such as bad clamp bolt, bad drivetrain mounts, or bad things happening inside the transmission.

Heat can certainly affect tolerances, though the shifter is not going to be significantly affected. But if you have a marginal clutch, or something else on the edge, heat could push it one way or the other. Once it gets to flywheel, clutch plate, bellhousing, etc., unless the problem is obvious, you can go around in circles forever (which is kind of what's happening).

If you are willing to live dangerously, jack up the front of the car and place on very sturdy jackstands. Well, I guess you could block one wheel, and see if the other one can be turned easily while someone is in the car, transmisison in gear, and clutch pressed. You can also make some interesting (and dangerous) experiments with the engine running....
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
The shifter alignment shouldn't be that sensitive or fragile. If the alignment is slipping, there's either a simple physical reason such as bad clamp bolt, bad drivetrain mounts, or bad things happening inside the transmission.

Heat can certainly affect tolerances, though the shifter is not going to be significantly affected. But if you have a marginal clutch, or something else on the edge, heat could push it one way or the other. Once it gets to flywheel, clutch plate, bellhousing, etc., unless the problem is obvious, you can go around in circles forever (which is kind of what's happening).

If you are willing to live dangerously, jack up the front of the car and place on very sturdy jackstands. Well, I guess you could block one wheel, and see if the other one can be turned easily while someone is in the car, transmisison in gear, and clutch pressed. You can also make some interesting (and dangerous) experiments with the engine running....
Are these tests to determine the performance of my clutch? Because I had already tested it the way John Z Williams said by having the E-brake on giving it's like gas and letting the clutch out in 3rd. He said if the car dies immediately clutches good if it slips for a second and then stalls the clutch life is deteriorating and if the car doesn't stall at all the clutch is slipping very very bad
 

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That doesn't sound like a very scientific test, and I don't think the condition of the friction material would have much to do with the ability of the clutch to disengage... that's primarily a function of the pressure plate.
 

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We're not speculating whether the clutch is slipping, we're speculating whether the clutch is always disengaging completely when you step on the pedal. JZW's test is for slipping clutch. So....
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I see. Well i talked to a saab mechanic with 52 years experience and he just says my clutch is operating fine as long with my slave after describing how my car drives, (goes into 1-5 just fine no grinding etc) He said to just replace the gearbox and with 40k on the clutch components he just said to re use them since they are operating fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)
Could this plastic ring be causing issues under the shifter boot? One side of the ring looks "popped off" and thr left side of the clip sits flat on the bottom part of the shifter housing. So is that clip supposed to be popped up or is it broken? I could try and super glue it down.

Also the whole outer white plastic pieces also wiggles a fair amount in the housing. I need to order a short throw shifter ASAP this one seems very abused. Furthermore, looking at esaab diagrams i also have a chunk of plastic missing on the outermost white piece of plastic (can sorta see it in the photo) so it seems the previous owner dropped something heavy on it or was attempting work on it that caused damage.
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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
So as an update the new gearbox is in the and the drives much much better. However the spherical ball under the shifter boot needs to be replaced ASAP with genuine saabs short throw sifter. Im not sure if dirt made its may into the ball, or if its just old but when selecting gears sometimes it just catches and causes a knotchy shift with resistance.

I know its the shifter ball mechanism under the shifter boot because with the linkage removed completely from the car everything free you can feel the shifter catching/ not engaging smoothly.
 
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