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Hey Jeff - yes, I remember sending that to you. Also, as this hasn't come up previous... I believe I had an issue, once upon a time, when the alarm chime wouldn't stop when I took the key out. I hit the ignition key switch with WD 40 and pulled the key out "vigorously/aggressively" a few times and haven't had a problem since. For mine, the key wasn't turning all the way off to stop the alarm - which might be different from your current issue, but that is what worked for me...hope that helps too!!
 

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'02 9-5 Aero Wagon, '88 SPG, '02 Viggen Vert, '01 Viggen 4dr, +Triumphs & MGs
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Just a quick question - as I just dealt with something similar. How does you car do with going into reverse when the car is just off? Sorry if you have answered this - I saw a lot about revving etc. My car I could only get into reverse with the car off - ended up after new clutch, new slave, new full lines.....that it was the master. Just my recent experience - no amount of adjusting seemed to get it there.....until I did the master. Best of luck!
 

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With my linkage and synchro issues, the car on or off didn't matter - mine actually went into reverse better when it rolled backwards - when the gears meshed, it would drop in, otherwise...no go. Jeff may have a very different experience tho...
 

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It is possible the reverse mechanism inside the gearbox is worn. Hope not. But the reverse gear set and fifth gear set had dome technical revisions made to them with added wave washers and different materials over time. I would guess external shifter mis alignment over time can screw things up
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
So my car actually wont go into reverse with the car off. Ive gotten it to go into reverse one time after doing a shifter alignment with a very tight tolerance screw driver underneath the shifter boot. So at first i was like oh ok my linkage is just out of whack!

Turns out that isnt completely the issue and i think i just got lucky that one time. After that i havent been able to get it into reverse with the car not running. After that scenario i was able to get it into reverse by putting the car into first or third letting off the clutch a little and then slamming it into reverse. That worked a few times but now nothing works BUT this. I go to a hill by my driveway and roll backwards. I shift into third to mesh everything up and then i can get into reverse with the help of the hill and 3rd gear.

So to answer your question simply i no longer have any tricks that work with the car off. You might be able to (with the car off) shift into first or third first then get it into reverse (i used to do that awhile ago and is a good habit with these saabs to prolong gearbox life)

I picked up my gearbox this afternoon and will be installing it next weekend (waiting on fluids and seals)
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
My car I could only get into reverse with the car off - ended up after new clutch, new slave, new full lines.....that it was the master. Just my recent experience - no amount of adjusting seemed to get it there.....until I did the master. Best of luck!
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How common is the clutch master going bad? I havent heard of anyone doing this job in the 9-3's unless they were upgrading from cable to hydraulic.

I just read a members post on here about the master replacement and he mentions he never had success bleeding with the "motive pressure bleeder" that i currently own. He mentions vacuum bleeding was successful.

My question is did you bleed the thing with the part off the car? Just like priming an oil filter with fluid (for different reasons of course) but would using some pressure to fill the master up a little bit of fluid be necessary? (Thinking about the slave cyl) to make bleeding easier/ more successful?

Thanks, Jeff
 

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Hey Jeff - do you want the list of stuff you need to check while you're in there doing the transmission? Since I just had one done, I picked Jerry's brain (Mile Hi Auto in Denver) - that's where I got my used tranny, I can send it to you if you need it - lemme know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Hey Jeff - do you want the list of stuff you need to check while you're in there doing the transmission? Since I just had one done, I picked Jerry's brain (Mile Hi Auto in Denver) - that's where I got my used tranny, I can send it to you if you need it - lemme know.
Ya sure the more you know the better. Im know the general stuff to inspect but im sure your mechanic might have a tip or two im not aware of feel free to PM me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Does anyone remember which way to turn the 11mm nut inside the bellhousing that the slave connects to, is it a reverse thread? I think its normal threads but id hate to strip it out. I suppose i have a spare line and slave off my old transmission thats actually newer so ill be using that, but why damage a part when i could just save and store it.
 

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Does anyone remember which way to turn the 11mm nut inside the bellhousing that the slave connects to, is it a reverse thread? I think its normal threads but id hate to strip it out. I suppose i have a spare line and slave off my old transmission thats actually newer so ill be using that, but why damage a part when i could just save and store it.
Normal thread , use a flare spanner if you can to avoid rounding
 

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2000 9-5 Aero, 5-spd
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Ive done the shifter alignment, and tried every possible gear then trying reverse no dice. The way i was getting the key out prior to this was to be on a very slight hill, roll into first with the car still running and then when the car rolled back i was able to slide it into reverse.

That no longer works, so if my reverse gear just completely gone now? Plastic clip under the shifter boot looks fine.

Also like to mention i can't get the key out whether the car is running or off.

Clutch has 40k miles on it so id be surprised if that was the cause but its possible

Thanks
Hello... I see we have three pages of advice to deal with this issue and I can't read them all to see if anyone has the answer. I'm just going to tell you that I have this issue and I know EXACTLY what the deal is... the reverse synchro is gone and you have to spin the reverse gear by putting it in neutral and letting the clutch out, then hit the clutch and shift into first or second (I use second) and then immediately go for reverse. If it doesn't drop in, back to neutral, let the clutch out to spin the gears again, push in the clutch, hit second and then right to reverse. Sometimes it takes ten goddam tries, but eventually you will hit the alignment and it will drop right in. When the drivetrain is warm, you can let the clutch out in neutral and the engine idle is fast enough to spin the transmission gears. If the drivetrain is cold, you will have to give the engine a little rev to get everything spinning in neutral, and then do the procedure. I've been doing this for a year since accidentally hitting reverse at speed.... bad habit of grabbing the shifter and hitting the reverse lockout with my grip. The engineers tried to stop me!! I was my own worst enemy that day.... sometimes sh*t happens.
 

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On making a flare wrench... cutting a box end isn't really a good choice. The thinner box end will open slightly and slip. I have some actual flares that are like that... and even with the extra metal of the flare, they still flex minutely and slip. I usually try them and then end up back at the stronger open end - at least it doesn't flex.

I also have a crowsfoot made similarly, although out of a factory. That design just slips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
On making a flare wrench... cutting a box end isn't really a good choice. The thinner box end will open slightly and slip. I have some actual flares that are like that... and even with the extra metal of the flare, they still flex minutely and slip. I usually try them and then end up back at the stronger open end - at least it doesn't flex.

I also have a crowsfoot made similarly, although out of a factory. That design just slips.
Thanks for the tips but ive done this in the past numerous times with 0 issues. Im not able to afford anything else so even if i wanted that tool it simply isnt an option. Making due with the incorrect tools is basically my speciality at this point. Oddly enough i can't even find my 11mm wrench so theres that :)

Im actually at a standstill on this project because of financial issues. Last time i did the job was in full garages now im trying to make it work at home with limited tools. Basically just missing a compressor/pump to bleed the slave/ a 6×6 to support the engine (could probably use a 4×4) and a 22mm flare wrench for the 02 sensors.

So ill just be praying this gearbox will just hold out at least another few months (still goes forward without issue) while i save up money again. The gearbox fluid and seals came out to 570$ and as a student that was a lot of my savings and for whatever reason finding a part time job is proving difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
You don’t need to pressure bleed it. I certainly didnt. Just use a bit of tubing and stroke the slave while it’s out. Then do the brick on the pedal trick and good to go the next morning.
So youre saying you didnt even attempt to pressurize any fluid into the slave..? And simply just compressed the throw out bearing a few times...? I really dont like the idea of that but if it works..

Also how does the 2×4 or brick method even work of you have 0 pressure and the pedal just drops to the floor..? Ive done the 2x4 method twice now and each time i had some pressure just not a lot. Can you elaborate on the brick method??? Is the brick helping the pedal from not going down completely? If i recall correctly the 2x4 you want to jam the pedal about half way down and leave the bleeder nipple cracked.
 

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Yep. Make sure the line is completely full of fluid by stroking the slave with a scrap of line in a bottle of fluid while the trans is out. Then bench press it in there, bolt it up, connect everything and leave it alone for a few hours. Bleed and good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Yep. Make sure the line is completely full of fluid by stroking the slave with a scrap of line in a bottle of fluid while the trans is out. Then bench press it in there, bolt it up, connect everything and leave it alone for a few hours. Bleed and good to go.
Ok i will trust you. I also think its not critical because im installing a used slave that was already primed so i think this method will be sufficient. Heck i could probably get away without doing it at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Ive done the 2x4 method twice now but its been quite a few years. Can someone tell me if im supposed to have the master cylinder cracked open to allow air to escape ? I want to say i had the MC cracked (not off bad moisture) but i just cant remember. I suppose cracking the nipple and or reservoir isnt necessary because every page i found on the 2x4 method just says prop it down over night with no other instruction.

I only ask because each time ive bleed with my motive pressure bleeder i was able to get an ok pedal feel after a couple times but never had enough fluid to continuously repeat so just used the 2x4 method after.

So as an edit i found an answer after reading about 15 different clutch bleeding posts. Lms a long term member states to have the master cylinder cracked open and that makes sense to me
 
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