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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
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I don't think this is your issue... but remove the 5th gear guide. It also acts as the reverse lockout blocker. That will eliminate the reverse lockout as a potential issue.

FYI - I think you have the selector operation reversed. That's easy to do since it's all done in opposites. The shifter rod is attached to the shifter lever below the pivot point (the ball). So everything is in reverse.

When you move the shifter to the right to get to reverse, the rod would turn clockwise. Then when you pull back into reverse (the rod being attached below the pivot point at the shifter) the bottom of the shift shaft rod moves forward into the tranny. When you move the shifter forward to 5th, the bottom point moves backwards, pulling the rod out of the transmission.

Someone else should confirm that for us.
Gotcha well i guess ill try and manually select the gear tomorrow with the linkage removed but i have a pretty good feeling ill be displeased with the results. I think its time for another transmission :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Bob i tried removing the 5th gear lockout part number 4490314 but it wont budge whats the trick to this thing short of it breaking apart?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Also after figeting around on the viggen posts i was able to get the car into reverse by revving the engine as i engaged it! Thanks for the help @Deskmechanic for suggesting to google "viggen wont go into reverse" i found a lot of more useful info that led to me getting the key out... Hoorah! If you lived near by id be offering to buy you a beer.

Of course i shouldnt celebrate to early but for now i think its safe to assume since revving the car worked to get into reverse i certainly have a very worn transmission/clutch. I will be replacing it as soon as i can afford it.

I actually didnt notice your message that said to google viggen wont shift into reverse so that's my bad! I only noticed it after re reading the entire post, oops.

Thank you to everyone that replied and sorry if i was posting excessively, happy saabing :)
 

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Bob i tried removing the 5th gear lockout part number 4490314 but it wont budge whats the trick to this thing short of it breaking apart?
Somewhat moot now I guess, but I seem to recall they just pull off vertically. I have one in my parts box that I thought I just pulled off a tranny. But perhaps I am remembering it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Somewhat moot now I guess, but I seem to recall they just pull off vertically. I have one in my parts box that I thought I just pulled off a tranny. But perhaps I am remembering it wrong.
I guess i didnt pull hard enough i figured it pulled out vertically but it wouldn't budge with pretty sufficient force, don't really need to worry about it now but i guess that bugger takes a lot of power to remove!
 

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Glad to help. I have a good transmission that I'm eventually going to swap for one out of a Viggen for the bigger axles but it's still in my car. Where are you located?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Glad to help. I have a good transmission that I'm eventually going to swap for one out of a Viggen for the bigger axles but it's still in my car. Where are you located?
Im located in Connecticut but i actually just bought a used FM55507 for 400$ with 41k miles seemed like a good deal because its pretty rare to find a saab gearbox with that low of miles.
 

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Oh that's good to know your only in Ct. you won't have far to go to drop it off when your totally frustrated, plenty of room just park it amongst to others.


it's a standing joke although some have done it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Oh that's good to know your only in Ct. you won't have far to go to drop it off when your totally frustrated, plenty of room just park it amongst to others.


it's a standing joke although some have done it.
This car will be with me until the day i die lol. I have put to much work into it, engine was completely rebuilt from the bottom up with forged internals etc etc etc. Even if the uni body snaps in half it will be parked as a parts car.

Is the joke new englanders just give up on the saabs? Im a little slow i guess for not getting the joke haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
That's an excellent deal. I'm in NYC but go to CT frequently.
Theres quite a few parts for saab in CT. I shop on car-parts.com its a database of every salvage yards products and the list of available parts is rather long. The last gearbox i put in this car had 110k miles on it and the guy who was selling it had it on the shelf for multiple years so he advertised it dirt cheap to get rid of it i suppose, sold it to me for 70$!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
What do you guys recommend for a slave with 10/15k miles on it, replace it anyways?

If i decide to keep it and install it on another gearbox is bleeding the slave necessary before installation?

Bleeding it is the safest bet, however i dont even own an air compressor where im living currently or a bike pump so bleeding it would cause me to buy more tools on a tight budget
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I also found a temporary fix to my reverse gear not engaging that exasperates the very slow roll back i was doing in my driveway. I have a steep hill by my house. After driving up it, i rolled backwards and at first reverse wouldn't engage, but once i kept revving and pushing it in the reverse position i was able to get it into reverse at around 5mph although a large grinding noise did occur i forced it into gear anways, reverse power shifting anyone? 😏 I backed into my driveway and put it in neutral. It now slides into reverse without hesitation at park. Leads me to believe clutch is a possibilty but most likely not (see why below) but im still happy i bought the used transmission that i will install anyways. The clutch is an OEM viggen with around 35/40k miles with the flywheel having the same mileage so ill just be re-using all of that.
 

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you actually bench bleed the slave by hand ,there is a good write up here

I normally only pay 8 bucks 10 with inflation for Saabs, but lately people are just dropping them off with the keys and title.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
you actually bench bleed the slave by hand ,there is a good write up here

I normally only pay 8 bucks 10 with inflation for Saabs, but lately people are just dropping them off with the keys and title.
ahhh ok youre not wrong i got the saab im driving now for 500$ with 140k miles. i dont think it needed any work besides some vaccumm lines so i see your point. Also bench bleed and bleed are the same thing. They called it that because it was originally done on a bench.. why do you think i mentioned not having a bike pump or compressor? to bleed the slave per those instructions that ive used numerous times... thanks for looking out for me though

i was just curious if it was absolutely necessary to "bench bleed" the slave on removal when it was previously done. taking it off shouldnt be introducing any air into it as far as i can think. I say this because im an extremely broke student that can barely afford rent i would like to not buy a bike pump or compressor. i suppose its worth it though :/
 

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Keeping the slave is a personal call. Depends on how much you like laying on your back bench pressing transmissions. I do it for fun so I'd leave the old slave and clutch in there and see what happens. ;)
 

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If you've replaced the slave recently and it's a "good one" then no you should get many miles out of it, You mentioned you didn't have good clutch pressure, was the slave fully bled previously? checking it still bolted to the housing isn't difficult, peace of mind before throwing it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
If you've replaced the slave recently and it's a "good one" then no you should get many miles out of it, You mentioned you didn't have good clutch pressure, was the slave fully bled previously? checking it still bolted to the housing isn't difficult, peace of mind before throwing it back in.
Well its good enough to drive i think im just worrying for no reason... my leg still gets sore in traffic. Also yes i did the process on the Plantoff website multiple times until i saw little to no bubbles.

I agree though ill just suck it up and get a pump and just check it/re bleed. I like the peace of mind aswell.
 

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My 9-3 SE had a reverse gear issue. And a shifter linkage issue. I can't prove it, but I believe that the sloppy linkage caused the reverse issue - the synchro gear was shot to hell, getting the car into reverse for @ 2-3 years prior to that got progressively harder and more difficult.

The ONLY way my car would go into Reverse gear was by ever so slightly rolling backwards - so I got real good at looking for "pull thru spots" in parking lots or bouncing the car off of curbs (if I had no other choice) to get it into reverse. But the linkage was in such shi**y condition that the linkage would literally pop off if too much pressure was applied.

So I replaced the shifter linkage arms - which replaced the plastic ball joint sockets with metal arms and metal sockets, and then - though the car shifted GREAT (nice & tight, not sloppy anymore, etc), I had to replace the transmission. The reverse synchro great was shot.

New transmission, basically a new linkage - car has NEVER shifted better.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
My 9-3 SE had a reverse gear issue. And a shifter linkage issue. I can't prove it, but I believe that the sloppy linkage caused the reverse issue - the synchro gear was shot to hell, getting the car into reverse for @ 2-3 years prior to that got progressively harder and more difficult.

The ONLY way my car would go into Reverse gear was by ever so slightly rolling backwards - so I got real good at looking for "pull thru spots" in parking lots or bouncing the car off of curbs (if I had no other choice) to get it into reverse. But the linkage was in such shi**y condition that the linkage would literally pop off if too much pressure was applied.

So I replaced the shifter linkage arms - which replaced the plastic ball joint sockets with metal arms and metal sockets, and then - though the car shifted GREAT (nice & tight, not sloppy anymore, etc), I had to replace the transmission. The reverse synchro great was shot.

New transmission, basically a new linkage - car has NEVER shifted better.

Good luck!
Thanks kendal you actually DM'D me with the parts list for the linkage a few months ago, im going to actually buy the parts for it this time around.

My reverse gear is definitely shot along with the rest of the transmission, but my shifter linkage is very sloppy so even after a alignment it could still be misaligned thats what leads me to believe the linkage+ the shot reverse gear is my issue. (With the linkage obviously not helping whatsoever)

I used to do the roll back trick too but recently that stopped working. The only way that works now if is i find a very Steep hill and roll backwards at around 5mph i can get into reverse after a lot of grinding..
 
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