SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just dropped over $800 to replace the fuel pump, convert and recharge the AC and install rear brakes on my '92 9000S manual. My daughter is home from college and uses the car, so I hadn't even had a chance to drive it since we got it back last week.

Today, 1st and 2nd gear stopped working. 3rd through 5th seem OK but I didn't venture far from home after I learned of the problem. I try to place the stick in 1st gear and it just flops over to neutral...the same with 2nd.

Does it seem more like a linkage problem than a trans problem? Any suggestions of what to do/where to look?

I'm about "this close" to saying enough is enough, but I love this car and haven't given up yet.

Thanks for your help!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Have you checked the rubber shift linkage coupler? Mine broke last summer and made the shifting go all weird. I fixed it by clamping the linkage together with zip ties and one of those screw-tight hose clamps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, I haven't done anything yet other than drive the car at 10:30 pm last night after my daughter told me about the problem.

To check the linkage coupler, where do I look? I presume under the car between trans and firewall, but a little confirmation/guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
4th_Saab said:
I presume under the car between trans and firewall, but a little confirmation/guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Right. It's pretty much right under the throttle housing - there's a rod coming from the firewall to the transmission with a rubber coupler in the middle. If you have someone moving the gearshift lever while you look, you can't miss it. It's easiest to get at it from under the car, what with the intake tract and various vacuum lines being in the way from up top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I looked at the linkage from above as my homemade oil change ramps don't lift the car enough to get my plus sized self underneath. It looks like the rubber piece is failing.

Is there enough room between the trans and steering rack and firewall to allow human arms to get up in there to replace the part?

Assuming that I have the car in reverse when I start dismantling the linkage, will the trans stay in Reverse? I ask this because the rear brakes were just replaced and the hand brake doesn't work yet (I assume that it will with time). I have to rely on the car being in gear and a 4x4 behind a rear wheel.

Thanks!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,000 Posts
4th_Saab said:
I have to rely on the car being in gear and a 4x4 behind a rear wheel.
I think if you park a Jeep 4x4 behind the car, it's not rolling anywhere! :cheesy:

And if the trans is actually in reverse, it should stay there. It flops out of 1st because it's not actually in gear, just the stick is moving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,365 Posts
It won't take you long to make the hand brake work, just get that 4mm Allen key in the adjuster and *then* do this job! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
djtaylor said:
It won't take you long to make the hand brake work, just get that 4mm Allen key in the adjuster and *then* do this job! :)
Is the adjuster inside the car, the 4mm screw at each rear caliper or ???

The instructions on the Saab9000.com site talk about adjusting the screw at the rear calipers, but nothing about inside the cabin.

I did my own front brakes and after enduring a week of back pain (long time back problems) I decided to let a local mechanic finish the brake job while replacing my fuel pump. They did such an awful job putting the car back together after replacing the pump (I had to tear out the trunk floor, properly route the tube coming out of the top of the pump cover and reinstall the trunk floor so that I could access my spare tire), that I wonder if they took equal "care":roll: when installing my new rear rotors and pads... I almost don't want to know how they got the pistons to retract...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers!;oops:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,938 Posts
Seized cable is also a common reason for no handbrake. "Adjusting" a seized cable won't fix anything. Make sure the cable actually operates the levers on the outside of each caliper ebfore trying to adjust the handbrake.


As for the shift coupler make sure you remember to key the shifter rod to reverse after you replace the coupler and BEFORE you try to do any shifting. The drill is to select reverse, then remove the old coupler, then put the new coupler on, then drop the 5 mm pin (drill bit or suitable rod) into the shifter alignment hole in the base of the gearshift (under the gaiter) to align the gearshift with reverse, then secure the coupler sleeve.

I am unsure whether SAAB always uses reverse to key the shifter but I think they did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,365 Posts
Yes, i've lost track, there's two A/C threads and two threads with duff handbrakes, i've forgotton to whom i've made what suggestions! :)

Definitely check that the lever operates the linkage but from then on, it's just the adjuster.

David.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I suspect that the cables are fine since the handbrake worked just prior to the barbarians replacing my rear rotors and pads last week. I'll have to pull the rear wheels off and see if they adjusted the calipers properly with a 4mm hex bit. I have little faith that any of the repairs were done with care or respect for proper procedure...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, I was able to get a good look at the coupler tonight and it's cracked wide open. That has to be the problem.

Now, how on earth can one with adult sized arms get at all four nuts to replace it? I can reach the two in the center with minimal difficulty, but I don't see any way to get to the ones on the outside...

Can one do it from underneath or do you have to go through the wheel well?

Another thing to consider...the shaft coming out of the trans and the coupler were soaked in transmission oil. Is that going to cause premature death to a replacement coupler?

Would it just make sense to use the "durf" method to fix it...wrap the thing in a hose clamp and tighten it up rather than opening another potential can of worms and find the source of the leak, etc.?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
If you can take off the two nuts on the shifter coupler that are easily seen from underneath the car (if you are laying on your back with your feet toward the front and looking up - they are on the right hand side of the coupler), the easiest way to get the 2 on the other side is this: attach every extension you can find onto your rachet with a universal head on the end, followed by a 10mm socket. While laying on your back underneath the car, reach around and extend the rachet with extensions underneath the drivers side front wheel well, and lay it on top of the lower control arm. Once you are there, you will be easily able to reach the 2 nuts on the left side of the bushing. Its a cheap part to replace (eeuroparts.com - $10 + shipping) and I wouldnt worry about the oil from your tranny shaft eating it anytime soon. A leaky valve cover gasket will do that long before the tranny shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, with my darling daughter's help, we cobbled the car back together. With her under the car and me leaning over the engine with my right arm wedged between throttle and firewall, we were able to attach a couple hose clamps around the deteriorating coupler.

We have all five gears now and a much stiffer feel in the shifter do to the solid connection.

I'll probably buy the replacement part and do the job right some day...but for now, the car is back on the road.

Thanks to all for their help.

We'll see what goes next...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
shift linkage

What you have on your 9k is the old style shift linkage. It is simply a piece of rubber sandwiched by two metal bars each with two threaded shank sticking out. The new style is more robust, but alos more expensive. The new style applies starting mid-94 if my memory serves.

The part is very cheap, $9.95 a few years ago. Probably $10 to $15 now. When you are ready to install, I recommend removing the battery and tray. It'll make installation easier. If you are not willing to take the battery off, the two nuts on the driver side (US spec.) maybe accessed from the driver side wheel opening. The remaining two on the passenger side may be reached from under the car. Use 10 mm socket or wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Yes. I am. No I didn't notice Michael Smith's disappearance. I did notice a few long time posters either cutting back or disappearing altogether. I still post on TSN but am very new here.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top