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Homemade Air Box

I'm going to be fabricating a home made Heat shield this week as I put my CAI in. I've got a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do based on a project I did with a BMW 325i. Also I plan on venting the hood later for more air flow
 

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I think you are complicating this as the intercooler is what will drop the IAT more than anything you could do with the airbox or under hood temperatures.

We are looking at fractions of horsepower with any intake modifications simply because it is not a bottle neck or maxed out CFM wise from stock or "stage" setups.
 

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I've been looking into buying an intake for the saab but I didn't wanna pay rediculous prices for parts that I can make myself and will work as well. Even though theres no performance add w/ this mod, the spool up sounds great and the diverter valve is really loud now.

Disclaimer: You will ruin your airbox if you make a mistake doing this mod, so take your time and cut carefully. You only have one chance at making it work.

Step 1: Using a sawzall, dremel, hacksaw or whatever, cut the "tube" off the top piece of the airbox. The tube goes farther into the airbox but I only cut it about 4 inches south of the MAF sensor

Step 2: Clamp a 2.75in coupler to the MAF tube. I used variable size 2.75 inlet / 3.00 outlet coupler.

Step 3: Clamp a straight piece of intake pipe to the end of the coupler.

Step 4: (Optional) Clamp a 45* or 90* elbow if you want your airfilter facing down closer to the air duct

Step 5: Install your filter of choice and check if everything is tight and secure.

APC Filter: $20
Coupler: Freebie (Spare)
Intake Straight Pipe: $10
90* Intake Elbow: $10
Total: $40


Yes that is a ziptie, temporary until I fab up some kind of support. I'm also going to make a heatshield next time it's not 0 degrees outside
Hey, does it matter how big the filter is? Is there like certain specifications, or will the filter universally fit the intake straight pipe? Completely new to this... trying not to mess it up lol I was thinking about this one http://www.autozone.com/intake-system/specialty-air-filter/aem-dryflow-air-filter/156574_0_0/
 

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What about how long the straight pipe is? I see some that are 8inches and some are 6". 6 inches seems so small, I picked one up at autozone but it ended up being plastic, I wasn't paying much attention when I bought it so I'm gonna return it. It seemed waaaay to short though.
 

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Intake heat shield

I went out and purchased some heat duct aluminum from my local hardware store, and moc'd up a cardboard template for my heat shield. Traced it after I got the right fit, and cut out the shape. Looks pretty sick after I painted it, I'll have to post some pics later. I also run the bluetooth based dash command app on my phone and am getting a significantly colder intake temp with the shield on. #DON'TPULLHOTAIR
 

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What about how long the straight pipe is? I see some that are 8inches and some are 6". 6 inches seems so small, I picked one up at autozone but it ended up being plastic, I wasn't paying much attention when I bought it so I'm gonna return it. It seemed waaaay to short though.

I wouldn't put too much thought into this. There are no real benefits from this aside from aesthetics and audible tone of the turbo spooling.

Here are some facts:

These designs are all actually short ram intakes.

Plastic will always conduct less heat than metal so it is more ideal for car intake systems.

A smooth interior pipe will allow for air to flow without creating turbulence. I've seen some people use dryer vent tubing........

The intake tract is not a restriction at any "stage" level for the B207x engine. It can outflow what the turbo can demand.

Just go get that Autozone pipe back and be done with it.
 

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Intake DIY

So, I decided to do an intake before doing any research whatsoever and was, as you might imagine, baffled by the MAF problem. I couldn't believe it would be that sensitive. So I eventually did some research on here and bought a used airbox off ebay for $30 (I'm never a big fan of taking a hacksaw to a part unless I have a spare). I ended up with a different setup which nicely eliminates the need for a heat guard. I'm well aware that I'm not the first person to do this but I figured I'd share anyways just in case it helps somebody out!

image4.jpg

So that's the set up, with 3" pipe going down through the stock air hole

image2 (1).jpg

This part is just an aluminum bend piece that comes with a cheapy generic intake kit you can get at autozone. Easy!

image1 (1).jpg

Next is a 22 degree bend pipe, also available at any crappy autoparts store where people go with their civics. Beyond that I used about a 1' piece of 3" flex tubing to get down through the hole.

image1.jpg

After you've got all of that plumbing hooked up you'll want to loosen up the fender liner so that you can fit the pod up inside. Sorry it's such a crappy picture but you can see that it will be up in their a good ways. It's a pain to get it attached since you're shoulder deep and the plumbing wants to move up. That's part of why I went with the flex tubing. You want enough to make the attachment manageable and then compress it back up as far as it will go, reattach the fender liner and the pod will be stuck firmly in place

image4.jpg

The last thing to do is to cut a piece of sheet metal to fit underneath to keep your cylinders nice and H20 free! I cut my piece to fit up under inside of the bumper lip and then towards the back you can bend it at a ninety to be able to bolt onto the inside of the wheel arch. Then, if you're cheap and amateurish like myself, take some 12 guage copper wire and twist it tight around the pipe and the upper airbox mount...and then paint it black so people don't know your intake system is secured with copper wire :/

And then you can enjoy choochooing your way around town! I've had this set up for around 1 1/2 years and haven't experienced a single problem...other than periodic feelings of douchiness.

PM if you've got any questions! :D
 

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Awesome! Hey I work in industrial maintenance and have access to some nice ss CIP piping, 3" to 4". I do have reducers down to 2.5". They are dropped down by .25" increments. Anyways, you think this would work?
 

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I've been looking into buying an intake for the saab but I didn't wanna pay rediculous prices for parts that I can make myself and will work as well. Even though theres no performance add w/ this mod, the spool up sounds great and the diverter valve is really loud now.

Disclaimer: You will ruin your airbox if you make a mistake doing this mod, so take your time and cut carefully. You only have one chance at making it work.

Step 1: Using a sawzall, dremel, hacksaw or whatever, cut the "tube" off the top piece of the airbox. The tube goes farther into the airbox but I only cut it about 4 inches south of the MAF sensor

Step 2: Clamp a 2.75in coupler to the MAF tube. I used variable size 2.75 inlet / 3.00 outlet coupler.

Step 3: Clamp a straight piece of intake pipe to the end of the coupler.

Step 4: (Optional) Clamp a 45* or 90* elbow if you want your airfilter facing down closer to the air duct

Step 5: Install your filter of choice and check if everything is tight and secure.

APC Filter: $20
Coupler: Freebie (Spare)
Intake Straight Pipe: $10
90* Intake Elbow: $10
Total: $40


Yes that is a ziptie, temporary until I fab up some kind of support. I'm also going to make a heatshield next time it's not 0 degrees outside
Would you be able to provide links? I’d love to put one of these in. Seems too easy
 

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Would you be able to provide links? I’d love to put one of these in. Seems too easy
I have one ready to go I'll sell it to you for $40 shipped
 
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