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Discussion Starter #1
as was done here previously:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155275

it can now be done much cheaper, and with much less work.

Using the Morimoto mini Bi xenon projectors. cirrently they come in H1, but there is a note on the website about coming in D2S soon. i picked up the kit for $285 shipped form retrofitsource.com.

the key to this is that the back end of the projectors has a threaded tube which allows the use of a locking ring for mounting. the kit comes with an H4/9003 adapter ring, which is basically the base of a bulb, allowing you to use the factory mounting hole making maintaining alignment and lots of other things simple.



follow the old tutorial for separating the headlights. disassembly is pretty quick and easy, just be careful to not break any clips, they can take some decent force tho, although dont need much.

my suggestion - the previous method was to put a large object behind the reflector and crank the adjusters all the way out. that didnt work for me. if you twist the aimers counter clockwise they will come undone from the housing, and you can then pull them out of their clips pretty easily.

CAUTION if you see clips like below, you cant just pull things out, they have 4 little feet that must be released from the housing



i painted my housings a high heat aluminum color to look factory-ish. i did 3 coats of a heavy duty wheel paint to hold up during assembly, and then did 3 coats of the 500 degree paint.

you also should drill a hole in the bottom to run the high beam activator wire out of the housing.



the projectors have 4 mounting holes that can be used, but since we dont use there here, i searched around and found mention that they can leak light and cause some weird hotspots, so i covered them with some aluminum tape.

the holes


covered
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next is to go about setting up the mounting. i chose to glue my adapter to the housing just for extra stability, but i dont think it is absolutely necessary.

the kit comes with two washers, i put one to be on the inside of the housing, then used the rubber one on the outside.





for even more stability i also utilized the factory bulb spring to hold everything in place




at this point you are ready to reassemble everything. i suggest connecting the one stationary mounting point first, then the aimer with the twist handle, then the little black one. that gives the most stability to push against for each one. again they dont take a lot of force, just hold the reflector housing with one hand, then push the aimer back in, the twist it back into its location in the housing.

you can see everything still lines up just like stock



from the front



the shrouds take about 5 minutes of cutting, the amount and location will vary by which shrouds you get.

complete

 

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Discussion Starter #3
i ran the beams through regular US glass, and you still get a cutoff. it appears that you may get a little extra upward scatter with that glass.

i now have my e-codes in front of the projectors, and will check out the beam tonight. if this doesnt look too bad i may not clear the glass right away.

if you choose to clear the glass, these projectors have a very small focal point, which is a good thing, so it would appear that you can clear out a pretty small circle just in front of the projector instead of clearing the whole lense. this will be the method i use when i get around too it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
take this pictures with a grain of salt, its very difficult to photograph light output, if i had turned the shutter speed down anymore it would have been worthless. the lights are a tad brighter than pictured, and are currently aimed a tad lower than they need to be.

either way you can see, it is well worth the money for the improvement over stock.

i now dont have plans to clear the lens. with ecodes, the is just a tiny bit of upward scatter, but it is not directly up and not in oncoming traffics eyes. it can only be seen when projecting onto a wall. this is thanks to how tight of a focal point these projectors have.

pictures are from the drivers seat looking over the steering wheel.

low beam


high beam


cutoff at probably somewhere near 25 feet
 

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the cutoff does look rather scattered at the center of each beam, and i think that's because that's where there is the most fluting in the lenses. the wall above that cutoff, however, looks totally dark. that means there's probably not enough light to blind other drivers. excellent.:p it would be even better with clear lenses, and we must find some way other than grinding flutes from existing ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the pictures arent perfect, but they do seem to lose clarity the farther you are off the wall. at 10 feet or less you still get a clean rainbow cut off line.

the only scatter i tried to draw a mark of below.


the quality of the scatter tho is at most the intensity of the city light bulbs.

i do agree that clear lenses would give a tad more clarity, but in all honesty i was not at all fond of the look. it would however be very possible to only clear a very small area directly in front of the projector. but with the lack of glare and general lack of effect from the ecode lens id rather stick with the "doesnt look like theres projectors in there" look.

BTW in the high beam picture, that sign thats lit up is just shy of a quarter of a mile away.
 

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is there a single connector for both sides somewhere in the stock harness? dunno if that'd account for the dice system picking up too little resistance. you could find some way to have each bulb connector control each solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
not that i know of. im not finding much success is finding the needed resistance. with a bulb in one side, ive connectec from a 1220 down to a 10 ohm resistor in many configurations and its still not happy.

the resistance of a working bulb is probably somewhere around 3 ohms, but at 55 watts a resistor put in the circuit would easily start a nice under hood bonfire with the heat it could generate.

of course since the DICE is involved, i have a feeling its not just simple resistance its after, and im not able to find any further information on the topic.
 

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Isn't there a pin on the SID that can be cut or disconnected to get rid of the no bulb warning? Of course since the search function doesn't work if will be hard to find but I am certain there was a thread that addressed which pin was responsible for the warning on the SID connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i mean maybe, but id prefer to have the system think there is a bulb, rather than just cut a wire.
 

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BTW in the high beam picture, that sign that's lit up is just shy of a quarter of a mile away.
IMO, it's hard to judge using the sign as it reflects much of the light.

The tree to the left and the telephone pole directly to the right on the other hand speak volumes. :eek::eek::eek:

Good job.

What bulbs did you end up using?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well i just got some interesting info tonight. will try this when i get some time this week.


HOW TO BYPASS FRONT HEADIGHT FAILURE FOR USE WITH XENON By Harvey

I Don't Know why this isn't common Knowledge But Here's the Trick, For Use with Orange relay, Bend Down Pin C2, This eliminates the signal from the relay to the Sid



I Figured this out years ago, Sorry I forgot to fill you all in.
 
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