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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally got this all married up...The downpipe was a real b**ch to install to say the least. I tried every combination of install until this worked...JUST barely...Had to:
  1. Connect DP to straight center pipe loosely away from car.
  2. Get DP/straight pipe assembly in place and slide DP flange bracket onto three bolts at turbo. Used bottom nut to hold in place.
  3. Connect straight pipe to exhaust loosely with washers, lock washers, and nuts.
  4. Install other 2 nuts on DP flange bracket and start cranking them down slowly. The DP naturally did not line up correctly so I had to use the nuts to bring it into place. There is VERY LITTLE room to move so a stubby open-end wrench was the tool to use. Only room for 1/4 turns at this point. This took the longest to do.
  5. Tighten straight pipe/exhaust bolts down. Again VERY little room to work with.
  6. use a hydraulic jack to lift up the clamp/straight pipe/DP assembly. This is necessary because there was a huge gap between the DP and straight pipe that would not close with the clamp alone. Lifting it all up closed the gap.
  7. Tighten nut on clamp around DP/straight pipe.
  8. Only now did the bracket on the DP line up correctly so that I could re-install those two bolts.
All in all, it wouldn't have been bad had I known the order in which to do it to begin with. All the other permutations yielded hardware alignment issues. I couldn't chance stripping another bolt because of some component being "bound up", so I took my time.

The verdict is: Spool up is way quicker, and I'm boosting further into the red than before. I'm guessing the extra boost will subside when the ECU figures out what's going on and retards boost a little to get back to spec. Wheel spin is an issue now on dry pavement when it wasn't before. I see why you guys do the LSD upgrade now. With the DP the 3" exhaust is definitely louder now. I changed the oil for good measure, plus I was almost at my 3K interval anyway. More experiments tomorrow after some sleep. Cheers fellas.
 
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Congrats J!

It is a nice feeling to know the engine can sing now when you drop the hammer:cool:
Do you find you have any extra resonance,drone or vibration into the cabin?
 

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Are you running a standard ECU or tuned?
 

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congrats on getting everything bolted up! i share your pain/frustration on the struggle to connect the DP to the turbo. without a doubt that is the toughest part of the entire install, but there doesn't seem to be any other way to do it...

planning on the ecu tune any time soon?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Raven18940 said:
Are you running a standard ECU or tuned?
See my signature below...if it's not listed...I ain't got it yet! :cheesy:
B~P said:
...planning on the ecu tune any time soon?
Why yes I am! That's the whole purpose of all the hardware upgrades to begin with of course! It's not really an issue right now, but I desperately want to upgrade the IC; the only reason I haven't yet is b/c I was trying to figure out whether or not to do the ETS drop in or try my hand at fitting a front-mounted IC. I was leaning heavily towards the FMIC, but Nick has managed to put me back on the fence again. He has strong opinions about those short (in height) IC and they are not favourable. :cry: I know he has the data to back it up and from everything I read about IC's he's right. Still, I want to fill that hole in my '04 Aero front bumper with an IC badly.

After I make a decision about the IC, I will be setup hardware-wise for the most part. I want to go straight to stage 3, so I'll need a new FPR of course, and Nick recommended swapping my cams out for T5 cams from a 9000. At that point I guess I'll decide on whether I want to stay around 300HP or if I wanna start dropping in forged pistons to run with the big boys. Somewhere along the way I will HAVE to get an LSD. Wheelspin is apparent, especially on cool nights.
 

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The reason I went with the FMIC is drivability during hot days. If I were to track the car, I'd probably stay with the drop-in IC, but the fact is, I'm not, and I love using the A/C in the summer, but hate the fact that it saps every bit of the power out of my car when I do.

For my spirited runs, I don't even get close to 1/2 way heatsoaked, so it was a good decision for me, plus much cheaper.

P.S. What's an SBMC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
SectorNine50 said:
The reason I went with the FMIC is drivability during hot days. If I were to track the car, I'd probably stay with the drop-in IC, but the fact is, I'm not, and I love using the A/C in the summer, but hate the fact that it saps every bit of the power out of my car when I do.
Yeah I'm not gonna track the car either. If I was gonna track a car it wouldn't be a 9-5 anyway. They are not set up for it at all IMO. I'm still on the fence with my decision about the IC. I'm gonna call a couple respected IC manufacturers and get their opinion. Maybe that will help me make a decision.

SectorNine50 said:
P.S. What's an SBMC?
Series Manual Boost Controller - also known as a Dawe's Device; For some reason the Dawe's Device is more expensive, but it's the same thing really. It looks primitive and it is; you could go to the hardware store and get the parts and make the thing if you knew exactly the ring spring, ball bearing, etc to buy, but i just ordered the thing since it was so cheap. It's the only boost controller that the T7 seems to tolerate, and there's adjustment that you should err on the conservative side with. If you adjust the thing too high it will cause boost cutoff and problems. Some guys don't believe in them so be aware of that. I personally have been running the thing for 2 years with no ill effects. It doesn't increase HP, but it does help turbo spoolup down low in the RPM's. Since I have the 3" system on now though, I'm not sure it's doing anything really.
 

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j006 said:
Yeah I'm not gonna track the car either. If I was gonna track a car it wouldn't be a 9-5 anyway. They are not set up for it at all IMO. I'm still on the fence with my decision about the IC. I'm gonna call a couple respected IC manufacturers and get their opinion. Maybe that will help me make a decision.
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Hey J I have the drop-in and it works great ( ti does get soaked in the hot ( and I mena 95+ days) if you run the ac. My boost would go from 21 to 16 lbs. but if I turn it off in less htan 1 minute we are gong full out again.

Maptun uses the Drop in for thier 470 HP stage VII.

ANd there is nothing cooler than tracking a 9-5, it is amazing when everyone ( except of course the BMW drivers that you pass ) comes up to talk about your car.. and thier first question is what is it?? Get the drop-in and you get to say its stock-ish...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jssaab said:
Hey J I have the drop-in and it works great ( ti does get soaked in the hot ( and I mena 95+ days) if you run the ac. My boost would go from 21 to 16 lbs. but if I turn it off in less htan 1 minute we are gong full out again.
Yeah the thing is that during the summer months down here in NC, we averaged 90 degree+ days this year, which is not uncommon.

Obviously the optimum situation would be to use the drop-in IC for it's size and reverse the IC/AC condensor stack so that the IC was the first to get air. Of course you need custom brackets for this, re-route the hoses, pray that it fits and possibly get sub-par air conditioning as a result. :cry: Why hasn't someone manufactured an aftemarket crash bar support that notches out to allow a tall and wide IC to fit up front? I see these for SRT-4's, Subie's, etc all the time.
 

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I'm glad you posted this. it saved me some headache.

I have to check to be sure there are no leaks, but I did this install last night. It went very smoothly. All the rusty bolts came right off, good thing about modding a car with 40K something miles ;)

after doing two downpipe swaps on a 9-3, a 9-3 catback and 9-5 catback, there wasn't too much different here, I had a good idea what to do, I already knew to use a jack to bring some pipes upward/support them and help align them.

but your directions really were great. I think the only thing I did a little different was I tightened the DP flange on the turbo last, as it was already on the studs but the other end connecting to the catback looked like it was gonna be more of a stretch, so i did it first.

those little nuts on the turbo flange also took me about 1 hour :lol: so please hope for me when I fire up the car this AM that everything is fine :cheesy:
 

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I run this one with no problems http://smartperformance.net/index.php?cPath=26 . Also I don't have a 3 inch exhaust I run a 2.5 inch.
j006 said:
Yeah I'm not gonna track the car either. If I was gonna track a car it wouldn't be a 9-5 anyway. They are not set up for it at all IMO. I'm still on the fence with my decision about the IC. I'm gonna call a couple respected IC manufacturers and get their opinion. Maybe that will help me make a decision.


Series Manual Boost Controller - also known as a Dawe's Device; For some reason the Dawe's Device is more expensive, but it's the same thing really. It looks primitive and it is; you could go to the hardware store and get the parts and make the thing if you knew exactly the ring spring, ball bearing, etc to buy, but i just ordered the thing since it was so cheap. It's the only boost controller that the T7 seems to tolerate, and there's adjustment that you should err on the conservative side with. If you adjust the thing too high it will cause boost cutoff and problems. Some guys don't believe in them so be aware of that. I personally have been running the thing for 2 years with no ill effects. It doesn't increase HP, but it does help turbo spoolup down low in the RPM's. Since I have the 3" system on now though, I'm not sure it's doing anything really.
 

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abdukted1456 said:
I'm glad you posted this. it saved me some headache.

I have to check to be sure there are no leaks, but I did this install last night. It went very smoothly. All the rusty bolts came right off, good thing about modding a car with 40K something miles ;)

after doing two downpipe swaps on a 9-3, a 9-3 catback and 9-5 catback, there wasn't too much different here, I had a good idea what to do, I already knew to use a jack to bring some pipes upward/support them and help align them.

but your directions really were great. I think the only thing I did a little different was I tightened the DP flange on the turbo last, as it was already on the studs but the other end connecting to the catback looked like it was gonna be more of a stretch, so i did it first.

those little nuts on the turbo flange also took me about 1 hour :lol: so please hope for me when I fire up the car this AM that everything is fine :cheesy:
As a fellow 04 Aero driver, I cannot wait for sound clips...
 

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Well I am a designer and not a mechanic, and I didn't quite align it perfect and it's rubbing something. So as far as sound, it's louder in the cabin right now than it really is in real life. I will fix that... but otherwise it sounds AWESOME

if I can get sound clips reliably somehow i'll post it.

it seems plenty loud especially for a wagon, with the DP and BSR catback.

really mean sounding actually, has been turning heads around town :lol:
 

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well as i said, I have done a few DP now so It was easy... longest/hardest is if you have rusty bolts, you should soak them a few days ahead of time with penetrating oil (liquid wrench) and sometime the o2 sensors can be tricky.

only other thing is the nuts on turbo/dp flange are very tight clearance and 1/4 to 1/8 turns to get each off can be a royal pain.

took me a few hours
 
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