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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a question: When you go 3" on your downpipe do you have a go 3" everywhere else? Like say flexpipe and and Cat Converter?
 

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You don't HAVE to, but you won't get maximum performance without going 3" right to the back.

In other words, a 3" downpipe with stock exhaust will buy you a performance increase, but not as much as you'd get if you went 3" all the way to the back.

Performance improvement will be minimal unless you update ECU as well.
 

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SaabBlackMan said:
I had a question: When you go 3" on your downpipe do you have a go 3" everywhere else? Like say flexpipe and and Cat Converter?
You need a DI not a down pipe :nono;
 

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Well, we don't even really know for sure that he needs a DI. Lots of other things can cause black spark plugs, and he's not reporting any of the other bad-DI symptoms.

I'd change the plugs, check all the vacuum lines, and clean the AMM and TB before I put $ into a new DI, if the car is otherwise running fine and the only symptom is all the plugs are evenly black. Maybe even try a different brand of fuel.
 

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And the miss-fire codes? :confused:
 

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Chris 9-5 said:
And the miss-fire codes? :confused:
If the plugs are carbon fouled, then you will get misfires. I'm saying that there are lots of things that can cause plug fouling, not just a DI. If the DI was new in 2001 then likely he does need a new one.... the recall check will tell!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Chris 9-5 said:
You need a DI not a down pipe :nono;
Lol..I went to the dealership and got some plugs yesterday it seems that the model is a bit different from the ones that I had on my car(ordered from online) so.. Yeah its driving fine now(no codes or anything.) but for some reason lastnight my car would start and I just got a new vacuum hose installed the other day.
 

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Endless fun these damned cars aren't they :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Chris 9-5 said:
Endless fun these damned cars aren't they :confused:
I know lol...Lets see..Well my Downpipe Bolt broke. so its leaking..One of my pulley seems to be making a stange noise. and it woubles a lot. Bad Gas mileage.. I just dont know.
 

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You need to get the pulley sorted buddy, before she lets you down :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Chris 9-5 said:
You need to get the pulley sorted buddy, before she lets you down :confused:
Yeah i am going to have it as well as all my hoses check on Monday..Hopefully my mechanic can diagnose the problem.
 

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MacNoob said:
You don't HAVE to, but you won't get maximum performance without going 3" right to the back.

In other words, a 3" downpipe with stock exhaust will buy you a performance increase, but not as much as you'd get if you went 3" all the way to the back.

Performance improvement will be minimal unless you update ECU as well.
Not necessarily true. Maybe for the racetrack, but not for daily driving.

I feel like backpressure has been a really relevant issue lately, not sure why. Guess lots of people are planning on doing exhaust systems soon.

Nordic tuning actually recommends a 2.5" exhaust. I talked to the people at Genuine Saab and they told me this. The good news is, the 3" downpipe from GS goes so far back on the car, (Under the dash or gearshifter, I believe.) that you don't have to worry about backpressure as much.

In theory, a 2.5" exhaust would give you better performance at cooler temperatures, (Daily driving.) and 3" exhaust would give you better performance when everything is blistering hot. (Racing.) Has to do with exhaust gas flow, expansion, and compression rates.

I went with the 3" because in my opinion, it's much easier to say 3" turbo back exhaust than saying 3" downpipe to 2.5" exhaust. Then you get people asking "Why'd you put on a smaller diameter exhaust? Doesn't that limit performance?" Then it starts a long conversation that could've been avoided in the first place.

Plus, 3" exhausts look cool. :cool:

But in all seriousness, I figured if I were to really require the full capacity of the car, then I would be racing, and the temperatures would be higher. I don't really need all the power for daily driving, and would probably hardly use it. There is a reason there are warm-up laps for racecars, and it's not just the tires! :cool:

If you'd like me to go into more detail about backpressure, just let me know, I'll copy and paste a few other posts from other threads so I don't have to type the paragraphs again. (No joke, paragraphs. It's like writing an essay! :eek: )

SaabBlackMan said:
I know lol...Lets see..Well my Downpipe Bolt broke. so its leaking..One of my pulley seems to be making a stange noise. and it woubles a lot. Bad Gas mileage.. I just dont know.
Poor gas mileage is probably a combination of the bad plugs, added resistance from a bad pulley bearing, and the downpipe leaking. Hell, the plugs could be fouling BECAUSE of the downpipe leak. The ECU uses a lot of the O2 sensor's readings in the downpipe for tuning the car properly.

Oh, and check and make sure all your tires have at least 35 PSI when stone cold.

I feel your pain though, everything happens on cars at once, no matter what car you have. Right now my car's starter solenoid is sticking causing an awful noise when starting the car sometimes and my alarm is going off whenever it damn well pleases. Not to mention it needs an oil change... guess it's that time of the month... :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SectorNine50 said:
Not necessarily true. Maybe for the racetrack, but not for daily driving.

I feel like backpressure has been a really relevant issue lately, not sure why. Guess lots of people are planning on doing exhaust systems soon.

Nordic tuning actually recommends a 2.5" exhaust. I talked to the people at Genuine Saab and they told me this. The good news is, the 3" downpipe from GS goes so far back on the car, (Under the dash or gearshifter, I believe.) that you don't have to worry about backpressure as much.

In theory, a 2.5" exhaust would give you better performance at cooler temperatures, (Daily driving.) and 3" exhaust would give you better performance when everything is blistering hot. (Racing.) Has to do with exhaust gas flow, expansion, and compression rates.

I went with the 3" because in my opinion, it's much easier to say 3" turbo back exhaust than saying 3" downpipe to 2.5" exhaust. Then you get people asking "Why'd you put on a smaller diameter exhaust? Doesn't that limit performance?" Then it starts a long conversation that could've been avoided in the first place.

Plus, 3" exhausts look cool. :cool:

But in all seriousness, I figured if I were to really require the full capacity of the car, then I would be racing, and the temperatures would be higher. I don't really need all the power for daily driving, and would probably hardly use it. There is a reason there are warm-up laps for racecars, and it's not just the tires! :cool:

If you'd like me to go into more detail about backpressure, just let me know, I'll copy and paste a few other posts from other threads so I don't have to type the paragraphs again. (No joke, paragraphs. It's like writing an essay! :eek: )


Poor gas mileage is probably a combination of the bad plugs, added resistance from a bad pulley bearing, and the downpipe leaking. Hell, the plugs could be fouling BECAUSE of the downpipe leak. The ECU uses a lot of the O2 sensor's readings in the downpipe for tuning the car properly.

Oh, and check and make sure all your tires have at least 35 PSI when stone cold.

I feel your pain though, everything happens on cars at once, no matter what car you have. Right now my car's starter solenoid is sticking causing an awful noise when starting the car sometimes and my alarm is going off whenever it damn well pleases. Not to mention it needs an oil change... guess it's that time of the month... :roll:
Yeah I feel your pain man im due for an oil change too but hopefully I can remedy at least two of those problems on monday.
 

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SaabBlackMan said:
Yeah I feel your pain man im due for an oil change too but hopefully I can remedy at least two of those problems on monday.
Good luck! :cool:
 
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