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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got the timing belt off and down deep into this project. The front crank seal is leaking and I want to replace it.

Which way do I need to turn the crank bolt to get it off? I have no idea what direction the engine turns.
 

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Crank direction

The V6 3.0 turn CLOCKWISE!!

Mine weren't leaking when I replaced the belt/tensioner and wter pump.

Make sure to replace all of the above and idler pulleys. All parts come as a kit from rockauto.com except for thte WP that's additional and the Serpentine belt. Rockauto has all the parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I guess I need an impact. My crank bolt is very stuck.

The belt/tensioners should arrive today. The Water Pump and Alternator should be in tomorrow.
 

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Timing kit

I have an OTC cam locking/timing kit for sale if you need one for the project.

Paid 150.00 for the locking kit.


Selling for 100.00 inculding shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have an OTC cam locking/timing kit for sale if you need one for the project.

Paid 150.00 for the locking kit.


Selling for 100.00 inculding shipping.
Thanks for the offer. I picked one up a couple of weeks ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Busted Pulley!

Argh. Now I'm up a creek. I still have a paddle, but my boat has a hole.

So, I've been trying to get the center crank bolt off so that I can replace the front seal. Since I've already removed all of the timing components I had to revert to alternative methods to hold the pulley in position while I try to bust it loose. I reinstalled the crank pulley and placed the teeth of a smallish pipe wrench around the lip and let the handle rest on the alternator pulley. The alternator is already junk, so I'm not worried about damage to it.

I tried an impact, no luck, not even a budge. I tried a 2 foot breaker bar on the socket, tugged, jerked, did everything I could and got nothing. I put a 32mm box end wrench on the end for extra torque, still nothing. I went for the big boy, the 4 foot jack handle. I effectively had at least 5 feet of leverage and I probably put a good 100+ lbs of force on that breaker bar. Then I heard a pop! It broke free!!! NOT. I broke the crankshaft pulley. FFS!

I'm at a crossroad. I've never seen this engine run. I don't know how much oil this seal will be depositing on my driveway. Do I keep trying to bust this bolt loose? I figure I can reposition the crank pulley another 5 times before I'm out of pulley.

Should I replace the pulley and just put it all back together, or does anyone have an alternative method to get that freakin bolt loose? My next option would be heat to the bolt. But if 500ft/lbs can't bust it free, it may never come out.

HELP!
 

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End all solution

I took my 3/4 inch braker bar and attached the bar to the crankshaft pully bolt with the socket attached. Rest the bar on the ground at angle 4 O'clock position and then tap the car key like your trying to start the car. Don't start the car. Just a tap and snap, you'll can hear the bolt break free.

Make sure you know which way to angle the wrench when attached!

I believe the 4 O'clock position is the correct position. Take a look yourself by sitting and looking at the angle.

Starting the car turns the crank CLOCKWISE. Have someone verify by watching and confirming.

You are using the car starter to break the nut loose. Pretty cool..


I have a 1/2 inch air gun which worked great. The above method I used on my wifes Honda Pilot. A little intimidating but works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That sounds like it would work great. I guess I could put the old timing equipment back on the car just to be sure the valvetrain is turning with the crank. I'd also get some practice with the old equipment and know how to do it when the time comes for the new stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, now I have concerns. I work with an ex-ASE mechanic / IndyCar machinist. He says that if the engine cranks clockwise while looking at the front of the engine, that crank bolt should have left handed thread and turn the same way as the crank to remove the bolt. It should turn opposite of crank rotation to tighten!

Does everyone agree with this statement? Have I been breaking things and tightening my bolt to 500 ft/lbs when all along I should have just tried to turn it the other direction?
 

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Way to difficult

I'll assume the car is on a jack stand.

I'll also assume you have the passenger tire off and removed the plastic tire shroud and have full view of the engine?

We are taking about a 9-5 SE, yes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll assume the car is on a jack stand.

I'll also assume you have the passenger tire off and removed the plastic tire shroud and have full view of the engine?

We are taking about a 9-5 SE, yes?
Entire front end is on Jack stands. The entire front end has been dismantled including the plastic shrouding, complete intake system from air box down to the block. Valve covers off, Timing belt, Idler pulleys, Tensioner Pulley, Water pump are all on the workbench. Cam locking tools in place. Crank pulley reinstalled for leverage.
2000 9-5 SE Wagon, 3.0L GM 54 degree V6.

I need to get the center crank bolt out in order to replace the front crank seal. The engine turns clockwise. Mechanically and theoretical thinking leads me to believe that the crank bolt would be left-hand thread and would need to be turned clockwise to remove it. I've applied 500+ ft/lbs of torque in the couter clockwise direction and the bolt refuses to budge.

I work within a few minutes drive of Road Tested Saabs (http://roadtestedsaabs.com/default.aspx). I dropped by today during lunch and spoke with Dan, the tech. They had a junked 3.0L 9-5 sitting in the lot and he reached in with a Bosch 24v electric drill on the crank bolt and it didn't budge in either direction. He was going to look through WIS this afternoon and see if he could figure out if it was a left or right handed thread bolt. Steve Bush, owner of RTS has graciously offered to sell me the pulley off that car. So at least I can put mine back together. Leak or no leak. I just need to know which way to turn that freakin bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've got a pulley, $50 from Road Tested Saab. Thanks Steve.

Steve says there is no specific procedure to remove that bolt and it should be a standard Right-Hand thread.

A co-worker recommended wrapping on the head of the bolt a couple times with a hammer and then hit it with an impact. I'll be taking two separate impacts home tonight, freshly oiled and try it again.

Wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm still up a creek. I rotated the pulley a bit (holes are specific bolt pattern for balancing) and I was able to line up 3 holes. I beat on the head of the bolt with a ball peen hammer. I hit it with both impacts and then I tred my breaker bar again. I broke the pulley in a new spot.

I think I'm to the point of reassembly. I'm going to put the induction system back together to the point that I can just do the timing belt. I'll put the old timing components back in place and try your starter bump recommendation.

I'd rather cut the head of the bolt off and replace the bolt and sprocket before putting a torch to it.

My gaskets and seals should arrive tomorrow. I'll keep this thread updated.
 
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