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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone!

I am going to apologize in advance for the really long post.. I just want to give as much information as I possibly can!

My car:
2008 9-5 2.3t
188K miles

I have been having really bad issues with performance/boost. I used to be able to put the pedal on the floor and the car would literally fly! But now, the only time I can boost (Or what feels like full boost) is when the car is first started (cold) and I get it on the road within the first 30 seconds. I might be able to boost 1 good time, and then that's it. The moment the care heats up (about 2 minutes), the performance is gone, and I am not talking about slightly. I mean a Prius can pass me when I am WOT - no exaggeration there.

I know this sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and re-checked everything I can think to check.

This is what I have done so far to the car..

New OEM DIC (with the SEM Label)
New Plugs - NGK PFR6H10's
New OEM Turbo (old turbo was scraping the inside of the housing)
New CPS - Bosch
Clean K&N oiled filter
Cleaned MAF with CRC MAF cleaner spray

Something I should mention - I do have a tech2, and the knock sensors for the cylinders are off the charts! I drove the car 1000ft and I had over 100 knock counts on each cylinder. maybe 5-8 misfires for each cylinder as well -

I did read that the CPU will retard the fuel/air if it senses knocking, so maybe that is what is killing the performance, I just don't know why.

I have yet to clean the TB again..(Cleaned it a few years ago) Original TB
The BPC is the original - never cleaned
The vacuum solenoid is the original

I checked all of the vacuum hoses, including replacing all of them with blue silicon lines. I recently had the turbo out again to replace the O-ring for the turbo oil return tube (Forgot to replace when I did the turbo, and of course it started leaking)

I checked the (original) intercooler to TB hoses. All of them seem to be in order.

I still have my old DIC that only has a small crack in it, which is what prompted me to replace it. I tried swapping that in to see if it resolves the no boost/bad performance but it does not. Still the same number of knock counts on the tech2.

I also had a bad oil leak that I thought was the timing chain cover, but it turned out to be the tensioner ring and seal. - those were replaced but the tensioner gap was about 15.6 (I know I have to do a timing kit soon, but putting it off for now..)

I have a few ideas and I wanted to run them by you guys first before throwing money at this issue..

Fuel filter? - never been replaced
Fuel pump? - the fuel sender unit is malfunctioning as well. Takes 30ish minutes once I fill the tank for the guage to register full
O2 sensors? - they were replaced about 15k miles ago, but the downstream sensor wire was up against the exaust manifold at some point and melted some of the outer shielding off. I don't think it exposed any bare wires, but thought I should throw that out there as well.
Clogged Catalytic Converter? - Don't remember where I read this, but I am doubting this is the issue - and hoping!
replace the BPC? - Not sure if a failing or stuck open/closed bpc can cause these issues.

I am really leaning towards the fuel pump and/or filter.

I can't even drive the car at the moment to work, as I have to get on the freeway and it takes a good while to get up to speed to the point I feel it is unsafe. Plus if the engine knocking is legit, i read that it can damage the pistons and inner walls..

If anyone has any suggestions at all, please share! I am desperate here.. I don't have the cash to put it in the shop, and I am sure most of you have dealt with mechanics that think they know what they are doing until they work on a Saab. I would much rather do it myself.

If anyone else has a Tech2 and knows how to walk me through diagnosing, that would also be very appreciated. The Tech2 has so many capabilities and I know how to use almost none of them..

I have been all over threads here and elsewhere but I just can't seem to figure this one out on my own.

Links to photos (Imgur)
https://imgur.com/a/sdtn8
 

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Hey everyone!

I am going to apologize in advance for the really long post.. I just want to give as much information as I possibly can!

My car:
2008 9-5 2.3t
188K miles

I have been having really bad issues with performance/boost. I used to be able to put the pedal on the floor and the car would literally fly! But now, the only time I can boost (Or what feels like full boost) is when the car is first started (cold) and I get it on the road within the first 30 seconds. I might be able to boost 1 good time, and then that's it. The moment the care heats up (about 2 minutes), the performance is gone, and I am not talking about slightly. I mean a Prius can pass me when I am WOT - no exaggeration there.

I know this sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and re-checked everything I can think to check.

This is what I have done so far to the car..

New OEM DIC (with the SEM Label)
New Plugs - NGK PFR6H10's
New OEM Turbo (old turbo was scraping the inside of the housing)
New CPS - Bosch
Clean K&N oiled filter
Cleaned MAF with CRC MAF cleaner spray

Something I should mention - I do have a tech2, and the knock sensors for the cylinders are off the charts! I drove the car 1000ft and I had over 100 knock counts on each cylinder. maybe 5-8 misfires for each cylinder as well -

I did read that the CPU will retard the fuel/air if it senses knocking, so maybe that is what is killing the performance, I just don't know why.

I have yet to clean the TB again..(Cleaned it a few years ago) Original TB
The BPC is the original - never cleaned
The vacuum solenoid is the original

I checked all of the vacuum hoses, including replacing all of them with blue silicon lines. I recently had the turbo out again to replace the O-ring for the turbo oil return tube (Forgot to replace when I did the turbo, and of course it started leaking)

I checked the (original) intercooler to TB hoses. All of them seem to be in order.

I still have my old DIC that only has a small crack in it, which is what prompted me to replace it. I tried swapping that in to see if it resolves the no boost/bad performance but it does not. Still the same number of knock counts on the tech2.

I also had a bad oil leak that I thought was the timing chain cover, but it turned out to be the tensioner ring and seal. - those were replaced but the tensioner gap was about 15.6 (I know I have to do a timing kit soon, but putting it off for now..)

I have a few ideas and I wanted to run them by you guys first before throwing money at this issue..

Fuel filter? - never been replaced
Fuel pump? - the fuel sender unit is malfunctioning as well. Takes 30ish minutes once I fill the tank for the guage to register full
O2 sensors? - they were replaced about 15k miles ago, but the downstream sensor wire was up against the exaust manifold at some point and melted some of the outer shielding off. I don't think it exposed any bare wires, but thought I should throw that out there as well.
Clogged Catalytic Converter? - Don't remember where I read this, but I am doubting this is the issue - and hoping!
replace the BPC? - Not sure if a failing or stuck open/closed bpc can cause these issues.

I am really leaning towards the fuel pump and/or filter.

I can't even drive the car at the moment to work, as I have to get on the freeway and it takes a good while to get up to speed to the point I feel it is unsafe. Plus if the engine knocking is legit, i read that it can damage the pistons and inner walls..

If anyone has any suggestions at all, please share! I am desperate here.. I don't have the cash to put it in the shop, and I am sure most of you have dealt with mechanics that think they know what they are doing until they work on a Saab. I would much rather do it myself.

If anyone else has a Tech2 and knows how to walk me through diagnosing, that would also be very appreciated. The Tech2 has so many capabilities and I know how to use almost none of them..

I have been all over threads here and elsewhere but I just can't seem to figure this one out on my own.

Links to photos (Imgur)
https://imgur.com/a/sdtn8
Fuel filter is integrated into pump
Have you checked FP at rail? 40 with key on or near it. It should hold there for 15+ min. Same with it running.
Valve cover gasket leaking and/or loose bolts. Some could be only finger tight. I'd replace it at your mileage.
NGK PFR6H-10 plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Bad performance

Fuel filter is integrated into pump
Have you checked FP at rail? 40 with key on or near it. It should hold there for 15+ min. Same with it running.
Valve cover gasket leaking and/or loose bolts. Some could be only finger tight. I'd replace it at your mileage.
NGK PFR6H-10 plugs?
How do I check the fuel pressure at the rail? Can you link me to the gauge that I would need for that?
EDIT** - Would this gauge work? https://www.amazon.com/Detool-Injec...=1-2-spons&keywords=fuel+pressure+gauge&psc=1

Also, I get that fuel pressure would need to be around 40 constant, but how can I test that the fuel pressure remains at 40 when there is a demand for fuel at the same time? - As in when I am WOT?

Not sure how the valve cover gasket would affect performance/boost? Can you explain further? - It was replaced last year since it was leaking..
40 with key on or near it? The key is not the same as in a 9-3. It does not have any proximity functions.

Bolts to the valve cover are definitely not hand tight, but I can double check.

Plugs that are in the car - https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/43640/Spark-Plug-Platinum-PFR6H10/ (PFR6H10 x 4) - NGK Platinum
 

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That fuel pressure gauge will work fine. There is a Schrader valve on the rail with a cap - very easy to access. Most auto parts stores have them for around $50 too.

There is a catalyst efficiency test within the Tech 2 diagnostics you could run to check the cat but most just loosen the DP and see if that makes a difference.

I see lots of knock counts on my car too and when I asked this here before I was told it's pretty normal. Not sure how accurate that statement is but I have tons of knock counts and the car runs fine so I wouldn't get hung up on that.

Fuel pressure, BPCV and bypass valve is where I would focus since it seems as though you have covered the basics pretty well (I assume the waste-gate is also new with the new turbo?). You can also monitor the Fuel/Air ratio with the Tech 2 to see if it is too lean/rich to check one more item off the list.
 

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Fuel filter is integrated into pump
Have you checked FP at rail? 40 with key on or near it. It should hold there for 15+ min. Same with it running.
Valve cover gasket leaking and/or loose bolts. Some could be only finger tight. I'd replace it at your mileage.
NGK PFR6H-10 plugs?
How do I check the fuel pressure at the rail? Can you link me to the gauge that I would need for that?
EDIT** - Would this gauge work? https://www.amazon.com/Detool-Injec...=1-2-spons&keywords=fuel+pressure+gauge&psc=1

Also, I get that fuel pressure would need to be around 40 constant, but how can I test that the fuel pressure remains at 40 when there is a demand for fuel at the same time? - As in when I am WOT?

Not sure how the valve cover gasket would affect performance/boost? Can you explain further? - It was replaced last year since it was leaking..
40 with key on or near it? The key is not the same as in a 9-3. It does not have any proximity functions.

Bolts to the valve cover are definitely not hand tight, but I can double check.

Plugs that are in the car - https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/43640/Spark-Plug-Platinum-PFR6H10/ (PFR6H10 x 4) - NGK Platinum
40 with key in "on position" or near 40..... 37-39.
If your FP is 15-30, good indicator to replace pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bad performance -reply

That fuel pressure gauge will work fine. There is a Schrader valve on the rail with a cap - very easy to access. Most auto parts stores have them for around $50 too.

There is a catalyst efficiency test within the Tech 2 diagnostics you could run to check the cat but most just loosen the DP and see if that makes a difference.

I see lots of knock counts on my car too and when I asked this here before I was told it's pretty normal. Not sure how accurate that statement is but I have tons of knock counts and the car runs fine so I wouldn't get hung up on that.

Fuel pressure, BPCV and bypass valve is where I would focus since it seems as though you have covered the basics pretty well (I assume the waste-gate is also new with the new turbo?). You can also monitor the Fuel/Air ratio with the Tech 2 to see if it is too lean/rich to check one more item off the list.

Oh! fantastic! -Love Schrader valves! - I will check that out as soon as I get home. Maybe I can tape the gauge to the windshield while driving to confirm that pressure does not drop during WOT?

Catalyst efficiency test - I did see this option in the Tech2, but it gave some warning about ensuring there were no other issues before performing the test, so I backed out.
Do you know how it performs the test?
Is there any risk of damaging anything?

In regards to loosening the down pipe, where would be the best place to loosen? Loosen - truly just loosen or remove completely? Are we talking about dropping the entire pipe (3 bolts I think) from the turbo outlet? Or further down the line near the cat?
Also, won't this affect back pressure and also cause issues on it's own?

bypass valve - I assume you want me to check this to ensure that it isn't cycling the boost back into the intake pipe while WOT? Is there a way for me to confirm that the bypass valve is still functioning? Can i remove the vacuum hose from the solenoid and test that it will hold a vacuum?

Would you recommend I replace the BPC?

The wastegate is new and came with the turbo, although I have read that it is adjustable. - Don't know if that is necessary at this point since I didn't have these issues when it was first replaced.

Fuel/air ratio - I did see this in the tech 2, but I have no idea what I am looking at. I believe it was in percentage? Can you tell me what would be considered too lean/rich?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bad performance - reply

40 with key in "on position" or near 40..... 37-39.
If your FP is 15-30, good indicator to replace pump.
I will check that as soon as I get home. Going to do the "rent-a-tool" program from Autozone or something similar.

In regards to the pressure, wouldn't a bad/dirty fuel filter also cause inconsistent or low pressure? I know my car has 188k miles, but if I can get another 60k miles out of the pump just by replacing the fuel filter, I would much rather go that route. As fun as dropping the tank sounds..

fuel filter integrated into pump - Are you positive about that? I am seeing conflicting results when looking at a parts diagram or looking at the replacement filter on eeuroparts and esaabparts.com

Here is the diagram I am referencing.. It seems to show that the filter is located under the car near the passenger rear tire encased in a filter housing (for stone protection)

https://www.esaabparts.com/viewparts.php?searchpart=1&section=314245915
 

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If you're luck and live in Europe or somewhere besides the U.S., your 2008 would have the "classic" easily accessible fuel filter under the car, which is a 30-minute job to change. Sadly, us Americans with 06-09 cars get the in-tank fuel filter. I have a 2006, and there is no external filter. I've even been told the in-tank filter can't be replaced as a standalone part. It's all part of the pump assembly. It absolutely irks me that they would do something like that, but it is what it is.
 

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If you're luck and live in Europe or somewhere besides the U.S., your 2008 would have the "classic" easily accessible fuel filter under the car, which is a 30-minute job to change. Sadly, us Americans with 06-09 cars get the in-tank fuel filter. I have a 2006, and there is no external filter. I've even been told the in-tank filter can't be replaced as a standalone part. It's all part of the pump assembly. It absolutely irks me that they would do something like that, but it is what it is.
It's comforting that our fellow Americans are out to intentionally screw their fellow Americans in the good ol' pocketbook.
"Leaving well enough alone" should be a mission statement with certain things in the land of corporate "Titanca." Like the omission of a trans stick for example.
Yes, I find it much easier to slap on two long 1/2 in socket extensions and popping off the turbo hose to delivery pipe, just to break a T55 cap free.
Can't do this with the car running btw, because ( at least for me) the hose prevents a straight on fit into the cap. Is that why it was a chewed up when I bought it? What a difference a year makes.... literally.
Yeah I get that's the intention.... smh.
 

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I've run the cat test before. It increases the engine RPM to around 3000 and heats up the cat for a few min. After the test it just said pass so I'm not sure what it would tell you if it failed. If you don't have any DTCs then I think you would be safe to run it. If not I would think the Tech 2 would back out of the test or you could just cancel it.

As for the down pipe, I would loosen the 3 bolts at the turbo but not remove it. Maybe even source some longer bolts for the test, you really just need a gap for the gas to escape. You wouldn't want to remove it completely unless you had another pipe you could install because you would have very hot exhaust gas blowing onto the CAC pipe and probably damage it. I've never done this myself so maybe someone with some experience in this area can chime in.

Usually things like the BPCV or the bypass will set codes so this is more of a guess on my part. You can check the bypass valve on the CAC with a vac pump but I'm not sure about the BPCV. They are relatively inexpensive so I would probably just replace it - I'm just not sure how to test this as there are some electronic controls involved.

You got me about the % in the Tech 2. I'm almost certain I was reading a ratio when I checked mine but that was at least a year ago so I may be foggy on that.

At this point I would get a read on the fuel pressure and yes, check it at WOT. If you remove the hood seal at the cowl you should be able to snake the gauge up to the windshield for a test drive but not all pressure gauges have a long enough line to make it there. Then I would move to loosen the DP and/or run the cat test. I'm all about diagnosing as much as possible before replacing parts you might not need.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've run the cat test before. It increases the engine RPM to around 3000 and heats up the cat for a few min. After the test it just said pass so I'm not sure what it would tell you if it failed. If you don't have any DTCs then I think you would be safe to run it. If not I would think the Tech 2 would back out of the test or you could just cancel it.

As for the down pipe, I would loosen the 3 bolts at the turbo but not remove it. Maybe even source some longer bolts for the test, you really just need a gap for the gas to escape. You wouldn't want to remove it completely unless you had another pipe you could install because you would have very hot exhaust gas blowing onto the CAC pipe and probably damage it. I've never done this myself so maybe someone with some experience in this area can chime in.

Usually things like the BPCV or the bypass will set codes so this is more of a guess on my part. You can check the bypass valve on the CAC with a vac pump but I'm not sure about the BPCV. They are relatively inexpensive so I would probably just replace it - I'm just not sure how to test this as there are some electronic controls involved.

You got me about the % in the Tech 2. I'm almost certain I was reading a ratio when I checked mine but that was at least a year ago so I may be foggy on that.

At this point I would get a read on the fuel pressure and yes, check it at WOT. If you remove the hood seal at the cowl you should be able to snake the gauge up to the windshield for a test drive but not all pressure gauges have a long enough line to make it there. Then I would move to loosen the DP and/or run the cat test. I'm all about diagnosing as much as possible before replacing parts you might not need.
Okay, so last night I went to AutoZone and rented the fuel pump diagnostic kit that comes with the fuel gauge.. I still had my OLD DIC in the car from the previous night of tests, so I just left it in. I snaked the hose up under the hood and secured the gauge with the windshield wiper so I was able to go for a drive. Here is where the interesting part comes in.. I couldn't reproduce the issue. I was able to boost, and drove the car around the neighborhood, then around the block, and eventually took it on the highway and I still couldn't get it to produce the issues described above. I drove the car for at least 45 minutes, almost WOT the entire time trying to reproduce the issue.. Very frustrating!

The gauge stayed right around 38 psi at idle, but the pump was very responsive in terms of increasing the fuel pressure when I was WOT. I never saw any fluctuations that would make me think the pump was going out, so that is a bit of a relief. The gauge is actually still hooked up, and I drove the car to work this morning and didn't have any issues at all. I think I will hold onto the gauge for a bit longer just to test the new DIC tonight and see if that was my issue the entire time.

I will note, there were a few occasions that the car hesitated for a few seconds before spinning up the turbo, which is now making me think the BPC needs to be replaced, so I will be ordering that today. When I say hesitation, I would be stopped or traveling around 10mph, and the car would literally do nothing for about 2-3 seconds before spinning up the turbo.
Note- I am thinking about purchasing some guages to have on the car full-time now so I can reference fuel pressure, and boost anytime. Any recommendations?
I would like to be able to constantly measure fuel pressure and boost simultaneously.
When I get home, I am going to throw on the new DIC and see if I have the same results.

Now I am off to make a new thread regarding a stubborn oil leak that I am trying to nail down..

Will post the results of the NEW DIC test tonight/tomorrow

I really appreciate all of the assistance you guys have given me over the last 24 hours! I am so impressed and regretting that I didn't come here sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you're luck and live in Europe or somewhere besides the U.S., your 2008 would have the "classic" easily accessible fuel filter under the car, which is a 30-minute job to change. Sadly, us Americans with 06-09 cars get the in-tank fuel filter. I have a 2006, and there is no external filter. I've even been told the in-tank filter can't be replaced as a standalone part. It's all part of the pump assembly. It absolutely irks me that they would do something like that, but it is what it is.
Yeah no kidding.. I also peeked under the car last night to see if I could see the fuel filter, and you're right.. It must be in the tank because all I could see was the charcoal canister housing. Thanks GM..
 

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I've run the cat test before. It increases the engine RPM to around 3000 and heats up the cat for a few min. After the test it just said pass so I'm not sure what it would tell you if it failed. If you don't have any DTCs then I think you would be safe to run it. If not I would think the Tech 2 would back out of the test or you could just cancel it.
When the "Quick Cat Test" fails it'll normally tell you something like "Insufficient Oxygen Storage" or "Working below threshold". Basically, the cat is no longer able to store enough oxygen to burn off HCs that are emitted during throttle closure. The test won't throw a P0420 by itself but if the cat doesn't pass the regular emissions diagnostics will surely catch on to the fact that the cat is going bad and eventually set that code.

I'm dealing with this issue now on our 02. I ran the engine for a few months with it burning about 1qt of oil every 400 miles and that killed the cat.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Replacing all the timing components

Alright guys.. Long story short, the fuel pump does not appear to be the issue.

I have been doing tons of reading and research here and other forums, and I am starting to think my timing may have something to do with the problem. As you may recall, I mentioned my tensioner is measuring past 15mm (15.6), and from reading this post here >> http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207158 I am starting to think my issue is due to a very stretched timing chain that is throwing off the timing just a little and affecting performance.
Anyone have thoughts on this?

I have ordered the timing kit from esaabparts, as well as an engine lift and stand.

I was planning on replacing the HG while I have the engine out of the car as well. I also read that "Another quick check is to simply roll the engine to the camshaft timing marks. If you can't align both cams exactly to their marks, it's probably time for a new chain" - I am guessing this can only be done with the valve cover off?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
you can change the timing chain from above without dismantle the timing cover. here is the link http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=757
Yeah I know.. But that wouldn't allow me to replace the rest of the timing components, like guides and sprockets, etc..

I also think I have a timing cover leak since I can't seem to stop my very frustrating oil leak, so may as well just pull the engine and redo that gasket or seal. - not sure that the timing cover has a gasket or an anerobic seal, but I still have to research that.
 

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My feeling is before you do anything else, check the PCV check valves and also replace every o-ring and vacuum hose that might be causing a vacuum leak. The o-rings that shipped from the factory are all crappy BUNA-N and at your mileage they will all be hard as rock. Look closely at the vacuum lines at the throttle body.

There's a white check valve under the top rear engine cover that has to be working correctly or your boost is dumped into the PCV system. You can check this with the suck-blow method after disconnecting it. If I had to bet on one possible cause this would be it.

The vacuum pump has a vacuum port with a red connector. Gently push in the red plastic ring and hold it while gently pulling out the black vacuum tube. When the vacuum tube is out you can carefully remove the old o-ring from the port with a small pick. I used a Viton 75 V2.40X008.3 o-ring as a replacement. Lightly lube the new o-ring with silicone grease.

There are a couple other of these weak red vacuum connectors in the engine bay, one on top of the snakehead for example. I'm planning to replace the o-rings in all of them when I get around to it.

And get rid of that oiled K&N filter. They are nothing but trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My feeling is before you do anything else, check the PCV check valves and also replace every o-ring and vacuum hose that might be causing a vacuum leak. The o-rings that shipped from the factory are all crappy BUNA-N and at your mileage they will all be hard as rock. Look closely at the vacuum lines at the throttle body.

There's a white check valve under the top rear engine cover that has to be working correctly or your boost is dumped into the PCV system. You can check this with the suck-blow method after disconnecting it. If I had to bet on one possible cause this would be it.

The vacuum pump has a vacuum port with a red connector. Gently push in the red plastic ring and hold it while gently pulling out the black vacuum tube. When the vacuum tube is out you can carefully remove the old o-ring from the port with a small pick. I used a Viton 75 V2.40X008.3 o-ring as a replacement. Lightly lube the new o-ring with silicone grease.

There are a couple other of these weak red vacuum connectors in the engine bay, one on top of the snakehead for example. I'm planning to replace the o-rings in all of them when I get around to it.

And get rid of that oiled K&N filter. They are nothing but trouble.
Thanks for the tips! - I did check the one way check valve underneath the plastic cover just the other day, and it is functioning correctly. I actually replaced that one about a year ago.

As for those red rings, I had no idea they had o-rings in them? So assuming you just pull them out from the inside with a curved pick tool?

Most of the hoses have already been replaced with blue silicone hose.
As for the oil filter, I have heard the same regarding the oiled filters, and I am very careful when I re-oil that filter before reapplying. I barely use any oil at all, but I will take your advice and replace with a non-oiled filter. Maybe the oil is throwing off the MAF sensor..
 

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Thanks for the tips! - I did check the one way check valve underneath the plastic cover just the other day, and it is functioning correctly. I actually replaced that one about a year ago.

As for those red rings, I had no idea they had o-rings in them? So assuming you just pull them out from the inside with a curved pick tool?

Most of the hoses have already been replaced with blue silicone hose.
As for the oil filter, I have heard the same regarding the oiled filters, and I am very careful when I re-oil that filter before reapplying. I barely use any oil at all, but I will take your advice and replace with a non-oiled filter. Maybe the oil is throwing off the MAF sensor..
The oiled K&N air filter just doesn't filter very well, it passes a lot of dirt, you're much better off with a good paper filter.

There's a lot of chatter about the oil from the filter damaging the MAF sensor also. I don't know if that's true or just speculation but it might not hurt to swap in a known good MAF after you get rid of the K&N filter.

My car was boosting OK but the boost definitely improved after I replaced the o-ring at the vacuum pump and the valve cover gasket. I'd figured out why that was but I've forgotten tbh. I haven't looked under the hood for months now.
 

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Ordered more parts..

Well, I just ordered a new MAF sensor and downstream O2 sensor (Old one had the jacket burned away when riding on the exhaust manifold) EDIT** - Also ordered a new paper filter and will be tossing the K&N.

We will see if that resolves the issue. If not, looks like I will be ordering a new TB if the timing kit does not resolve the performance issues.

I swear my Saab is the most expensive girl I have ever courted!
 
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