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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,
My 2008 9-5 2.3T with 127k miles runs great, but if I get the turbo dial into the red zone it stutters (jerks like power is failing) and the CEL blinks. If I let off the throttle the problem resolves in a few seconds, and the CEL turns off. There are no residual OBD codes. The car continues to perform well except when the turbo dial enters the red zone.

Here is what I have done to try to fix the problem.( I have a few Saabs so I am able to swap parts between cars to troubleshoot.)
New spark plugs.
New(ish) DIC swapped from a running 9-5.
All new silicone vacuum lines.
Checked the air filter, it was clean. ( I ran the car without the air filter a very short distance, the stuttering problem persisted.)
Swapped the turbo boost pressure control valve with a working used one.
Swapped the overflow boost valve with a working used one.

Of note, I inspected the the overflow boost valve and it appeared to have oil in it. Could this be an indication that the turbo oil seals are bad and leaking? And if the turbo oil seals are bad, would this cause the stuttering in the red zone?

Any insight would be helpful.
Thank you,
Chris
 

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Of note, I inspected the the overflow boost valve and it appeared to have oil in it. Could this be an indication that the turbo oil seals are bad and leaking? And if the turbo oil seals are bad, would this cause the stuttering in the red zone?
You've covered a lot of the things I would suggest to check. FYI, mine sucks in a bit of oil in from the PCV system. Mine also has some oil in it but I am pretty sure it is coming from the PCV, not that the turbo seals are bad.

What type of plugs are you running?
 

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That is typically the symptom (stuttering and flashing CEL with no OBD codes) of a failing DIC. But you've tried that. I'd take a look at the plugs to make sure they are the correct ones.

The oil is not your issue though
 

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1. What plugs are you running. You can ONLY use NGK plugs and Platinum or copper only../ Not irridium
2. Vacuum leak at teh brake booster is often overlooked. Do you brakes seem stiff, pedal drop at start up?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone!
A common theme amongst most of your replies was ‘what spark plugs are you running?’

NGK IRIDIUM
(Advance Auto Parts please update your software. NGK Iridium is one of the acceptable options for my make, model, and year.)

I swapped out the plugs, problem solved! She’s charging like a rhino!

Thanks for your help. In addition to solving my car’s performance issue you have help to repair my confidence in my DIY mechanic skills. My initial diagnosis was faulty spark plugs. I just needed the wisdom of the group to purchase the correct replacements.
 

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Thanks everyone!
A common theme amongst most of your replies was ‘what spark plugs are you running?’

NGK IRIDIUM
(Advance Auto Parts please update your software. NGK Iridium is one of the acceptable options for my make, model, and year.)

I swapped out the plugs, problem solved! She’s charging like a rhino!

Thanks for your help. In addition to solving my car’s performance issue you have help to repair my confidence in my DIY mechanic skills. My initial diagnosis was faulty spark plugs. I just needed the wisdom of the group to purchase the correct replacements.
Did you run the NGK PFR6H-10 ones? Those are recommended for your car, although it is possible to run cheaper copper ones and just change them more frequently.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you run the NGK PFR6H-10 ones? Those are recommended for your car, although it is possible to run cheaper copper ones and just change them more frequently.

I swapped the plugs from one of my other running 9-5s. Not sure what they were, didn’t have my reading glasses on.
Based upon your recommendation I will purchase NGK PFR6H-10.
Thank you.
 

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Thanks everyone!
A common theme amongst most of your replies was ‘what spark plugs are you running?’

NGK IRIDIUM
(Advance Auto Parts please update your software. NGK Iridium is one of the acceptable options for my make, model, and year.)

I swapped out the plugs, problem solved! She’s charging like a rhino!

Thanks for your help. In addition to solving my car’s performance issue you have help to repair my confidence in my DIY mechanic skills. My initial diagnosis was faulty spark plugs. I just needed the wisdom of the group to purchase the correct replacements.
Yeah, irridium plugs are acceptable for MOST cars that run the same heat-range, tip length etc.

For Saab with T7, Saab designed the ignition with only 2 plugs in mind. T7 (and T8) use Ionization sensing for knock detection, ( quite novel, especially in 1998) and an excellent way to do it,. allows for tuning to the fringe of stoich (14.7) because it detects knock instantaneously and retards timing. (it does not "listen for audible knock like other systems)

The DI in combination with the plugs is the system. That's why it is important to run only SEM DI cassettes. Also, the wrong plugs will burn out your DI

Irridium plugs did not exist then and have a different resistance and therefore do not work.

Reegarding Advance Autozone etc. I have noticed that a few sellers will change info in their books based on customer input. One in a bad way, Crutchfield now has most radios not compatible. When talking to a tech there he said several owners reported that it did not work with the cars systems Seems some folks did not liek that the SID no longer showed stations and functions. So they are now not compatible"
 
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