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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a feeling I have the intake valve issue developing. First start of the day has it running unevenly for about 20-30 seconds. Starter sounds like there's low compression on one cylinder before it starts. I plan to run a cold compression test tomorrow morning with my (very) understanding wife operating the starter.

I was wondering if you know of any helpful YouTube videos or write ups I should check out?

I'm a pretty experienced home mechanic and have the WIS to refer to but I do know that you guys have been there already and may well have some tricks up your sleeve.

A bit of background on the car. It's a 08 9-3 2.0T with six speed manual box. It has about 84k miles on the clock and was a California car until this year. We bought it last November. The dealer ran the cold compression test as I watched on a 25°f day and we had 185psi on each cylinder then. Since then it's fallen apart on us. The dealer was pretty helpful considering they didn't have to help legally speaking. The ignition switch module was causing a steering lock malfunction warning after a month. They replaced that. Then last month the balance chain jumped a tooth. They replaced the tensioner and guide (normal problem of the guide snapping). They replaced those at cost. Having said that there's still what sounds like chain noise at idle so I plan to replace both chains and all guides and tensioners at the same time as a possible intake valve replacement. I like the car a lot, we've just had a very rough first few months of ownership. Next time we buy the extended warranty. Although I prefer doing the work myself to ensure it's done correctly.

P.S. I have checked out the intake valve thread.
 

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Just curious if you touched the valve cover before the dealer did the test? If it was hot, or even warm, I would suspect that they knew there was a problem before you bought it... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did. Even the exhaust manifesto of was still cold. To be honest I think I might just have bad luck on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for that. Looks pretty close to the WIS method. I do wonder if I could unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head to avoid dealing with al the turbo disconnects mentioned, especially the flange nuts and studs.
 

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Thanks for that. Looks pretty close to the WIS method. I do wonder if I could unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head to avoid dealing with al the turbo disconnects mentioned, especially the flange nuts and studs.
Sorry to hear about another valve issue.

When I did my valve job, I did not remove the turbocharger from the manifold or from the cat. With a bit of luck and some persuasion, it is definitely possible to remove the studs from the cylinder head (studs that go in cyl head to hold the exhaust manifold) and then there is enough clearance where the head will just slide up without any issues. There is also enough clearance to install the new exhaust manifold gasket.

Now, I might have been lucky but I was able to remove the studs from the head to exhaust manifold fairly easy which made things infinitely less complicated compared to removing turbo.

Soak the studs (cylinder head side) the night before with some WD40 or similar and after removal of the nuts, try to back out the studs from the head, then just lift up the head. The studs have a hex end I believe #7 metric ratchet. It is a pain and not too much room to work with but at the time I was thinking that it was worth the try considering the alternative of removing turbo and exhaust flanges and etc..

You can hopefully see what I am talking about from a photo during my valve job work.

Good luck!

bg_saab
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey BG_saab,

Thanks for your reply! I feel much happier about doing the job myself with this news. The good news is being an ex Cali car must of the fixings seem rust free so fingers crossed I can get the studs out easily.

Any other pointers?

Cheers,

Steven
 
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