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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Would you be saying to use something like alligator clips to the + battery terminal then pull the fuses individually to get readings after some timeframe to allow the functions to sleep? Yes I'm the PO of said SAAB!
I was able to rerun the draw with both probes attached. It was maxi fuse 2 that made the difference.
I think you need to keep the probes connected throughout your test. If you disconnect a probe and then reconnect it, you wake up some of the components, this not giving at sleep readings
I reran the draw today with both probes connected. Maxi fuse 2 is the main culprit. Maxi fuse 1 also altered the draw a little, but maxi fuse 2 was significant.
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Maxi fuse 2 60 A
+30 supply to J55, which in turn feeds
• fuse 17 in fuse box 22a
• light switch 10
• Main relay 229
• starter relay 517
• glow plug control module 596
• crimp J56 which in turn feeds fuses 1, 16 and 20 in fuse box 22a
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Removing fuse 17 (Engine-management system; main instrument; DICE/TWICE) in box 22a reduce the draw to 40mA. I’m trying to locate J55.

Is it possible to test DICE module at home?
 

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Pull individual fuses, not the maxi fuses and see what happens. Disconnect the battery wire from the alternator and see if anything changes. If it does end up being DICE/TWICE circuit, you will then need to break it down from there by isolating circuits that these modules control.
 

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I replaced the alternator, battery, and starter! I went to start my car this past Sunday, and nothing. :( A local mechanic discovered there is a 100mA power draw on the maxi fuse 2.

This is what they wrote up:
---
TECH
TESTED MAIN WIRING AND FUSE ROUTING. CAR HAS 100 mA POWER DRAW KEY OFF ENGINE OFF.
MAXI FUSE 2 REMOVAL RETURNED A LOWER POWER DRAW.
FUSES POWERED UNDER MAXI FUSE 2 = FUSE 1, FUSE 20, FUSE 16, FUSE 17.
REMOVINGFUSE 17 RESULTED IN FURTHER DROP OF POWER DRAW.
FUSE 17 RUNS MAIN INSTRUMENT UNIT (DASHBOARD INTEGRATED CONTROL ELECTONICS MODULE)
Cause -

DICE MODULE IS MAIN SUSPECTED CULPRIT, THEFT CONTROL MODULE AND ENGINE CONTROL MODULES ALSO SUSPECTED IF DICE MODULE PASSES DIAGNOSTICS.

CUSTOMER RECOMMENDED TO REGULARLY DRIVE CAR, UTILIZE BATTERY TENDER WHEN PARKED, OR
INSTALL BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH.
---
Any thoughts on what it could be? Would the SID module affect this? There are no interior sounds (turn signal, open door, etc.) The trunk light is off, and I turned the interior lights off. Or is a cut-off switch my best/cheapest option?

Thanks,
Jeff



That is a normal healthy drain. It becomes concerning when it remains at around 1500mA. It is a consequence of the battery going under 11V. I unplug the SID fuse every time as is only used as a weekender and have no problems anymore. Don't worry and keep your battery in good condition.😊
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
I tested all the fuses in box 22a. Pulling fuse 17 reduces the draw to 39 mA (see photo). I am thinking of putting a kill switch on this fuse. Maybe in March, I’ll try and take the Saab to an authorized Saab dealer to test the DICE and TWICE units.

Any thoughts?

Thank you for all the comments.
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71 SAAB 95; 91 SAAB 900 Conv; 04 SAAB 9-5
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Interesting, I (wdssaab) have had the car for a week and kept it on a battery tender with all fuses intact, so there was no overnight discharge. I took it to my SAAB mechanic this morning and got a call that the drain was normal less than 50 mA. They are going to keep it overnight to see if it does drain the battery. Could the week with the 1amp battery tender "fixed" the problem? Tomorrow morning will tell.
 

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71 SAAB 95; 91 SAAB 900 Conv; 04 SAAB 9-5
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As mentioned in the previous post the local SAAB shop kept it overnight for two nights. They found the power drain to be normal. They suspected the "no name" battery could partially be the culprit as CCA's were not listed. Afterwards I had the car for another few days without the battery tender attached. I had no problems while driving it daily. The 9-5 has been returned to the OP living in a slightly colder area of the state. One of his driving habits was putting it neutral and coasting down some long hills, I wonder if he could have picked that up from an older Saab 95 (free wheeling) driver 😁 ?
 

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I'm confused...you say you had the car but then your follow up is "the shop" and "they" and then you are daily driving it?...whatever, it was never broken and we are all "free wheeling". 😁
 

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I'm confused...you say you had the car but then your follow up is "the shop" and "they" and then you are daily driving it?...whatever, it was never broken and we are all "free wheeling". 😁
Ok the timeline. My son owns the 2007 SAAB and was having the battery drain i.e. post #1. I live near one of the nationally known SAAB independent shops so I got the SAAB and had it for a week before getting an appointment, that was when I kept it on a battery tender, and no problems. The shop had it for a few days to diagnose the problem. In the end the shop determined the drain was normal but couldn't find out much information (CCA) on the installed battery, so suspected it was possibly the problem. After getting it back from the shop I drove it for another few days without using the battery tender with no problems with 7-10 mile trips. With respect to the freewheeling, my son does a lot of coasting down hills with the car in neutral so the engine is at idle rpm. I assume the battery not being recharged at 900 rpm thus is at a lower state of charge when it comes time to start the next day. What do you think?
My 71 95 has freewheeling so while he was learning to drive with it there were lots of freewheeling opportunities, so he (and I) continued on with the newer SAABs by putting it in neutral as opportunities arose.
 

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Stop ruining car with N when driving. Remember that gearbox pump will also disconnected and fluid stops circulating. That causes harms.
Alternator will not give much at 900RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I've stopped driving in neutral :) I was away for over a week so the Saab wasn't used. When I got back (3/12), it started up. I drove it approx 7 miles (highway) the next morning (3/13). When I tried to start it up, it wouldn't. I guess I need to drive ten or more miles per trip.

Today (3/17), I was driving by where I bought the battery, I stopped and asked for the Cold Cranking amps of the battery the shop put in (it wasn't listed on the battery). It is 650. The shop asked 'why?' so I shared the story. The shop put in a new battery since it was only a couple of months old.
 
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