[Anthony44]

Hi first post here, I have a 2007 93 2.0t, over the years I've replaced all the parts in the front including outer tie rods, control arms, front shocks, I never touched the rear until a few weeks ago. I was always told the rear bolts were seized so I cut them out and replaced all the camber and toe bolts. All new control arm stays, and all new rear lower control arms i thought it was the rear that was throwing it off because i wasnt able to get it adjusted until yesterday. Just got an alignment yesterday and the rear is now in spec and car still pulls to the right.

The paperwork says the camber is out of spec on the right side but shows it being too negative. I know it's non adjustable but just ordered a set of camber bolts Everything I read on the internet says a car pulls to the side that is more positive. From the paperwork the right side is more negative so I'm confused. Will camber adjusting bolts added to the front of both sides being adjusted to spec and equalled out fix this problem? Also how do you fix the caster out on the left? Thanks!

 

[salth2oj]

Just for a easy try…rotate the front tires from side to side. See if she pulls to the left.
Could be a tire issue.

 

[Anthony44]

Just for a easy try…rotate the front tires from side to side. See if she pulls to the left.
Could be a tire issue.

I'm due for a rotation so I'll rotate them when I get home and see if that makes a difference. Either way the addition of adding the adjustable front cam bolts should make a difference right?

 

[mstrjon32]

I know you said you replaced many parts...but do you have a cracked spring in the front?

 

[Anthony44]

I know you said you replaced many parts...but do you have a cracked spring in the front?

There's no way it's cracked because I got trq strut and spring assembly less than 2 years ago and got into no accidents and have inspected them and they look fine

 

[salth2oj]

I'm due for a rotation so I'll rotate them when I get home and see if that makes a difference. Either way the addition of adding the adjustable front cam bolts should make a difference right?

Your camber is about .50 degrees off from specs, not a crazy amount IMO. Camber bolts would do the trick, if you want to get it closer.
How severe is the pull?
I would swap the front tires and see what happens.

 

[Anthony44]

Your camber is about .50 degrees off from specs, not a crazy amount IMO. Camber bolts would do the trick, if you want to get it closer.
How severe is the pull?
I would swap the front tires and see what happens.

I always have to keep pressure on the steering wheel to the left just to make it not want to steer right. If I let my hands off the wheel on a slight long bend on the highway the car steers itself to the right so it's very annoying.

 

[salth2oj]

Did you notice a change after the alignment?
Anyway, I would take 20 mins and flip the fronts side to side.

 

[Anthony44]

Not really it's pretty much doing the same thing it's always done except now I have peace of mind that the rear isn't seized and out of spec

 

[mstrjon32]

There's no way it's cracked because I got trq strut and spring assembly less than 2 years ago and got into no accidents and have inspected them and they look fine

Still worth double-checking. Is the front end quiet, or is there noise?

 

[Bob12312357]

What are your tire pressures? On my other vehicle a 2lb difference left/rt will make it pull, more noticeable under braking when the front is loaded of course.

When you've maxed your adjustment range (on OE components) & are still out of spec it indicates damage/wear. That can be as simple as bushings or wheel bearings which tend to be the battery children of alignment diagnosis...not saying that is what your issue is right now since you haven't mentioned any issue/inspection of those things.

 

[Anthony44]

Did you notice a change after the alignment?
Anyway, I would take 20 mins and flip the fronts side to side.

Still worth double-checking. Is the front end quiet, or is there noise?

It's quiet

 

[Anthony44]

I figured out the problem. The rear right tire on passenger side has about half the tread of the others and is a different model tire. I put it on the front driver side(opposite side of the pull) and now it 100% fixed the pull and is straight as an arrow and steering wheel is straight. There is no vibration or anything at all at 80-90mph on the highway.

My question is, if I put a new tire on in place of that, won't the problem return? If so, would it be able to be adjusted out and get it to drive the way it is now? It drives perfect I would just like a newer tire. Probably just going to drive it how it is for now and keep an eye on the other tires for uneven wear because I do 170 miles each day.

 

[Bob12312357]

Glad you figured it out...now go buy a Prius or a Honda Insight! With that commute the money you'd have saved in gas alone would pay for the car! I know a guy with a 100 plus mile each way commute like that...he put 300k miles on his car & was still in the original brake pads/rotors. Gotta love highway miles.

FWIW I would just replace both front tires for the peace of mind.

 

[Anthony44]

Glad you figured it out...now go buy a Prius or a Honda Insight! With that commute the money you'd have saved in gas alone would pay for the car! I know a guy with a 100 plus mile each way commute like that...he put 300k miles on his car & was still in the original brake pads/rotors. Gotta love highway miles.

FWIW I would just replace both front tires for the peace of mind.

It's only for 1 year while I go to this school so I don't have to do this for too long. I'm getting 28 mpg so not too bad. Do you think that adding a new tire in place of this half worn tire will cause the pull to come back? I feel like it only fixed the problem because of the fact the tire isn't as tall as the passenger side

 

[93inmo]

Do you think that adding a new tire in place of this half worn tire will cause the pull to come back? I feel like it only fixed the problem because of the fact the tire isn't as tall as the passenger side

A new pair of tires is recommended- it's a more consistent quality and fix.
However, when my daughter got a flat and drove on it (ruining a tire with good tread), I opted to look at auto yards and their tire selection. I found one the right size with similar tread wear as the others and had it mounted. This way I'm on track to replace all 4 around the same time.

 

[Bob12312357]

It's only for 1 year while I go to this school so I don't have to do this for too long. I'm getting 28 mpg so not too bad. Do you think that adding a new tire in place of this half worn tire will cause the pull to come back? I feel like it only fixed the problem because of the fact the tire isn't as tall as the passenger side

FWIW if you drove a Subaru you'd likely have a CEL on (they tend to be very sensitive to differing tire wear with their AWD). Personally I don't like mismatched tires for a slew of reasons...differing levels of grip as it relates to lateral movement & braking, different sidewall stiffness, etc. I don't like differing front/rear tires either as this can indice under/oversteer due to those differences in grip.

I get that you're probably just grinding highway miles & money is tight as a student but I'd still get matching ones. Think about the mileage you'll drive in that year...likely more than most drive in several yrs. Also, check the dates on your tires. If new tires "unfix" the problem then it was never fixed in the first place.

 

[Anthony44]

I found a matching tire to my other 3 that I just bought so going to have it mounted soon and get him to adjust the front cam bolts I ordered, plus the bad tire has 3 plugs in it so its garbage anyway. He said he will put it back on the rack and make sure it's alright aftet the tire and bolts are adjusted but with my luck it will still have a pull after all I've done to it. If so I'm gonna just deal with it and sell it next year when I graduate