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Discussion Starter #1
My daughter complained of poorly performing AC, so I rode in her car, and yes, it's not working correctly, BUT it's not the AC, it's the blower fan speed - ALWAYS slow. Patient vehicle is a 2006 9-5 SC with Sport Package. It has about 136K miles, and in very good condition. The AC system is refrigerating properly, but the BLOWER MOTOR runs one slow speed no matter what the fan speed control is set for.

I expected to see the fan going full blast if it were a failed controller. My searching has turned up nothing addressing 'one slow speed'.

WIS is not real helpful - and the Dame Edna cars with revised climate control aren't quite the same as earlier cars. The ventilation control knob changes the illuminated fan speeds up and down, but the fan speed remains constantly slow (slowest ?).

I don't want to replace a ventilation motor controller if the problem lies elsewhere. Will a Tech II diagnose this ?

Thanks for the help.
 

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I don't want to replace a ventilation motor controller if the problem lies elsewhere. Will a Tech II diagnose this ?

Thanks for the help.
You can run diagnostics on a 2006+ car by pushing the AUTO and RECIRCULATE buttons at the same time and briefly holding. The engine has to be running. The SID will say "ACC: CALIBR. STARTED" to confirm. It takes 20-30 seconds to complete. Unfortunately the Dame Edna cars don't display the fault code(s) like the earlier cars, so you'd have to retrieve the error codes with a Tech 2.

Do you have a Tech 2? If not you could borrow mine. I'm local to you so I'm sure we could figure something out!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Andy -

Thanks for your generous offer to lend a Tech 2. I may take you up on it down the road, but after reviewing the options here, our family scheduling makes things unwieldy - and I think OpCom might get me by. I won't get to this job for about ten days or more.

I'll update with my findings when I finally do the work, but here is my game plan:

1) I ordered a new motor/fan assembly AND a regulator, together with an extra cabin filter - I already have one filter waiting to go into my other daughter's 9-5. Reliability longer term and "no repeat" are my goals, since the car doesn't live at my house any more.

2) Run ACC diagnostics and see whether OpCom will detect any Bxxxx error code. As you pointed out, 2006-9 9-5's don't show ACC codes on the dash display. I found posts inferring that OpCom will read them. WIS shows only two ACC errors that would apply here - short to B+ and short to Ground and these BOTH set the SAME B2425 code.

3) Remove, inspect, and replace cabin filter (did this when I first bought the car).

4) Test existing motor/fan, then install new motor/fan and test with existing regulator.

5) Assuming regulator is bad, I'll install the new regulator.

6) Update with results.

If the motor/fan seems good, I might re-brush it and save it for my other daughter's "twin" '06 9-5 SC.

Thanks for the help !
 

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Regulator is bad.

My06 9-5 , the fan would start blowing good and when it got hot the fan would slow down. I spliced the motor wires under the dash. Didn't want to go into the motor just to connect wires. All good. Good luck.
 

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Blower Motor Slow Regardless of Settings

I might be in the same boast at the OP (Original Poster).

Got an '07 9-5 2.3 SportCombi with blower motor that's barely blowing air regardless of auto or manual mode selected (including all manually selected fan speeds).

Thinking of half-splitting possible voltage input from controller by checking at blower motor input. I figure that a nominal 12V input (with engine running) would rule out the controller and indicate that the blower motor is kaput.


Sound like a decent POA? (Plan of Attack).
Also, I see posts about a fan that's underneath the glove box. Do I need to take a look at this or proceed with my original POA?
 

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There's no fan under the glove box, but the fan controller lives (for a LHD car) in the side of the HVAC unit, alongside where the passenger's left toes would be if they stretched their legs out.

After removing the under shield and the kick panel, the controller is visible high up and forward, behind a transparent plastic shield.

It is possible, via the adjacent connectors, to feed 12 V to the fan direct, avoiding removing the wipers, scuttle etc. etc. to access the fan from outside.

The controller unit, actually a pulse width modulator as opposed to a ballast/resistor as in the preceding 9-3, is a known weakness and the Saab maintenance procedure says replace it.However this would mean the loom as well, which goes through the bulkhead to the fan.

I grafted in a replacement unit by cutting the loom in the footwell, and joining with block connectors. Soldering is near impossible in there. The pre 2006 cars had a different loom, but the lump on the end is identical, so it doesn't matter, if you get your replacement from a scrap yard, what age the donor car was.

http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=189578

The wire colours are identical on the pre and post 2006 looms.

Scroll down to the pics in the last post. There's some confusion in the earlier posts due to the fact that it refers to RHD (in the UK), and the controller position used to be in the right side footwell in pre-2006 cars, left footwell in 2006 > cars. In LHD cars the HVAC unit is mirrored so the sides are reversed.

Doug
 

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Please take a look at the cabin air filter as part of early diagnostics.

It may be really filthy and clogged, bogging EVERYTHING down.

and is the simplest fix to start.
(admittedly may not be a fix, but could...so why not?)

I had an intermittent fan speed issue, (good when engine cold, very weird and usually non existent when engine hot, but then sort of weakish to mild fan speed when at speeds over 40mph)

Spliced in a new (good used) fan regulator to NO difference, (my very trusted mechanic suggested this, saying it had worked for him a few occasions on exactly same issue)....

Well, so then while attacking the blower motor, (which in my mind must be the next culprit) saw to my horror an absolutely clogged disgusting cabin filter. (saw this from above, when removing the cowl and blower motor....then got down to passenger foot well to remove....again i have never seen a cabin air filter so dirty)

swapping that out changed everything.

I made a stupid assumption the air filter had to have been looked at prior to this happening on my watch....

best of luck....
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Update - job done; Controller was the culprit

When I finally got my daughter's car home to fix it, I discovered the blower was not blowing at all. Fooled by the 'sucker seat' fans that turn off/on with the cabin fan control. They provided noise, and highway speeds provided "slow air" through the vent. =)

I ran ACC diagnostics by pressing AUTO and RECIRCULATE buttons at the same time, then ran OpCom diagnostics under Body and ACC. No DTC reported for the ACC, so I repeated, and it was negative again. I've used OpCom for ABS diagnostics and general OBDII, but this is first time I tried it for ACC.

I opened up the cowl and got the fan/motor assembly out. Bench tested, and the fan ran great off a spare battery. Blower motor okay - controller must be "it".

All the access is in the footwell on the right side (passenger side in US), behind kick panel and the glove box. The later cars ('05 and up ?) have a different controller and somewhat different cabin filter end cap than earlier cars. I think it's actually a little easier to work on than the earlier ones if you plan your strategy. Pulling the carpet away from the floorboard gives room to cheat the filter BEHIND the TCM (I think that's what it is, please correct if wrong). The fan controller is screwed right onto the end plate covering the cabin filter and AC evaporator. The biggest delay was that I couldn't get the controller connector to release from the housing - I finally remembered I wasn't reusing it, and I cut the upper plastic spring clip with an X-acto knife*. It helps to have the new part to see how it works.

With a new filter, a new fan, and a new controller my daughter should be okay for a while. I'll save and possibly re-brush the motor as a spare for her sister's car.

Thanks for all the advice and assistance !

* I cut the clip on the old controller connector, NOT the "hoop" or "box" it clips into - that box keeps it all from flopping around.
 

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When I finally got my daughter's car home to fix it, I discovered the blower was not blowing at all. Fooled by the 'sucker seat' fans that turn off/on with the cabin fan control. They provided noise, and highway speeds provided "slow air" through the vent. =)

Huh, on the pre-Dame cars, the seat fans have a separate three-position control. They run absolutely independently of whether the ACC is on or off.


I grant the fans are NOISY, especially on high speed, but any air coming through the vents was probably from ram air effects. The seat fans eshaust somewhere on the side of the seat, i.e. your stale flatulence is still within the cabin. :roll:
 

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My daughter complained of poorly performing AC, so I rode in her car, and yes, it's not working correctly, BUT it's not the AC, it's the blower fan speed - ALWAYS slow. Patient vehicle is a 2006 9-5 SC with Sport Package. It has about 136K miles, and in very good condition. The AC system is refrigerating properly, but the BLOWER MOTOR runs one slow speed no matter what the fan speed control is set for.

I expected to see the fan going full blast if it were a failed controller. My searching has turned up nothing addressing 'one slow speed'.

WIS is not real helpful - and the Dame Edna cars with revised climate control aren't quite the same as earlier cars. The ventilation control knob changes the illuminated fan speeds up and down, but the fan speed remains constantly slow (slowest ?).

I don't want to replace a ventilation motor controller if the problem lies elsewhere. Will a Tech II diagnose this ?

Thanks for the help.
I had the exact same issue. My SAAB mechanic told me that it was either the fan motor or speed resistor. I found both from a salvage yard on car-part.com...and excellent resource. My mechanic installed the speed resistor first, and everything was back to normal. Unfortunately the fan motor I bought had a crack in the hamster wheel housing, so that won't be of use if and when I ever need a motor.
 
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