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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,

I just feel like my problems with this car won't go away... at this point, I don't know what else to do...

this problem started a week ago. So basically, the car runs awesome for about 10 maybe 15 mins, but after that, it starts shifting poorly, you can feel that it has some lagging when shifting. Once I want to park, I shift into P and it takes a second to engage, and when it does, it's really rough, like it's snapping into the gear. Same if I change to D, it snaps. P or N are fine... Again, this only happens when the transmission gets warm, it drives perfectly fine when cold.

So, I changed the transmission fluid today, I bought some type IV from a local supplier. Again, it drove perfect, and I almost felt triumphant... but as the transmission got hot the problems started to show up...

I called The mechanic and he said that I should drive the car for a couple of days so the new oil can do its magic... if it doesn't get better... well... we all know what's coming...

I need HELP! please any ideas would be much appreciated,

THANKS!!
 

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When you change the oil in the transmission a bit less than half is still in there. To really "change" the oil you need to change it three times in succession with a 10-minute drive in between each change. That's the first thing I would do if I were you Dirty oil in these transmissions can cause all kinds of bad things.

How many miles?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply.

It's 104k. The fluid was pretty dark.
What's weird for me is the fact that it starts to act weird once it gets warm...
I've read that it could be a selenoid problem...?
Q
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also I would love to know if changing the selenoid is a DIY and if there's any tutorial on how to perform this, thanks
 

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There is a post by me in here on how to change the solenoids. Yes, you an do it with the transmission in the car. The key is getting the right ones (i.e. do you need to do the linear solenoids or the shift solenoids) There is evidence that dirt in the solenoids accumulates and then they don't work right, that's why they get rebuilt or replaced.

go through that thread and the one titled P0785 woes by me as well, there are some links to sites that tell you which solenoids do what.


But first things first, do a 3X change on the oil and then see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok unclemiltie , I'll do the 3x change first. Thanks for the cooperation. I just want this car to run, not perfect, but just to take me places...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been busy and Didn't have the time to do the second and 3rd fluid change yet. But I still drove the car to work (it's supposed to be my daily driver).

It behaves great on the freeway, but on my way back I hit some traffic and it started to get a little rough over time, cause of the constant stop and go... but I want to be possitive... and I feel it a little bit better than yesterday (or maybe I want to believe). It kinda feels like if the fluid is loosing its properties when it gets hot...

hopefully the 2nd and 3rd fluid change will solve the problem
 

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Does your 2006 have the dipstick? Mine has the dipstick and many if not all of the 2006+ don't. On mine with the dipstick, I fill it just to the top of the plastic nib. Checked with the transmission / engine at operating temp, in drive with the wheels chocked and the parking brake on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My saab do have a happy dipstick, so it's great.
So you say that you fill with fluid till the top of the plastic nib? I don't remember where is mine cause the mechanic did it, so I'll go and check that.
Maybe this is a silly question, but I heard you are supposed to check the level with the car on.... but I'm not quite sure if that works cause the fluid will be moving all over the place... could someone tell me the proper way?

Thanks!
 

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car on, transmission at temperature

put car in reverse with foot on brake, wait 5 seconds, then drive, 5 more seconds, then park. now check the oil

FYI if anyone is interested, I have a leftover dipstick tube from a AW55 that you can have for the cost of shipping if you have a later transmission and want to try to retrofit. I idon't have the dipstick though.
 

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Not to doubt it is a transmission issue but:

So basically, the car runs awesome for about 10 maybe 15 mins, but after that, it starts shifting poorly, you can feel that it has some lagging when shifting
Since you have an 06, throw it in manual mode and run it WOT in gears 2,3,and 4 (don't go nuts in 4 or you'll be at 120+ before you know it). Then repeat it again running at normal throttle. Does it lag/sputter during those runs? Does shifting with the paddle shifters result in jerky shifts?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tried the manual shifting today, coming to work. It feels better if I'm WOT, but if I go slow it has a bit of lagging. But it kinda feels better after I did the 1st fluid change... I'll go for the second and 3rd tomorrow cause I'm not working.

Also, after a proper commute (like 20 mins +), I'll go and park the car. everything is fine... but If I decide to go into R, the car will have a delay and then engage roughly... and it's very rough if I go to D... the lag is a bit more obvious and you can hear the clank at the moment it engages.

Again, the car runs smooth when cold... it's only when the transmission gets hot...
 

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Delayed engagement from N to R or D with a clunk is generally a symptom of the line pressure solenoid (SLT) not bringing the line pressure up that holds clutches fast enough. So when the transmission starts moving things you get a delay and then a clunk.

Still do the 2nd and 3rd oil change, it may well solve the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #14
update.

Tomorrow thursday I'll do the second and third change.

I did check the stick today, with the transmission properly warm and the car running, it was already dark outside but I saw 2 things:

1) The oil is not covering the whole plastic area. only half of it, where one of the marks are
2) The fluid still looks dirty ( I did the first fluid change 2 days ago). So based on comments here on the forums, It has to be red. So tomorrow I'll perform the second and third change. Hopefully they'll have enough at the local shop where I got the type IV. last time I bought 5L and used 4.5L...

any comments before getting under the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally did the 2 trans fluid changes left. I'll check it tonight... but I have to say that I don't think this will solve the issue after reading other forums and digging about solenoids a lil bit more (thanks Unclemiltie for the link to that info). But crossing my fingers cause I don't have the money to do the fix...

I'll update this same post once I have a conclusive review.

Btw, I think my trans mount on the lower/front of the car is shocked... checked it while I was under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, so that didn't fix the issue. Now, what's next... I'm just so frustrated with this car... Got it a month ago and wasn't expecting this issue at all...
 

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Then you have some thinking to do...

you might be able to fix the transmission with new or rebuilt solenoids. As I said before the SLT would be the suspect since that controls line pressure and is what will cause delayed engagements. See here for a description:

http://www.sonnax.com/articles/209-AW-55-50-AF23-33-Diagnosis-and-Valve-Body-Information


But the solenoids have to be adjusted as a set and it's not so easy to do just one. (from what I understand) A full set of solenoids is $225 or so.

Or it could be a problem with the valve body, a valve body rebuild will set you back $500 or so

Or it could be something inside the transmission.

The challenge is that you can't tell in advance which one it is. The link above talks about putting pressure valves on the pressure taps to see what is going on, but that's a lot of work. I don't think there is a transmission shop around that would go through that trouble since they can replace the whole box with a rebuild and never see you again.


I do have an extra used valve body, PM me if you're interested. The good thing about the valve body is that all of the solenoids are adjusted properly. The downside is that it could fail in 6 years, 6 months or 6 days and no one can predict it. Changing the valve body can be done with the transmission in the car though so you could do it yourself.
 

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The TCM generally shows up as electrical problems with codes. But it's an easy and reasonably cheap change so you might want to consider it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
my problem is that the car is not showing any codes... shouldn't it be throwing codes or something related to the incorrect shifting?? Is it worth checking the TCM?

(It did have a check engine light due to a missfire, but it got solved after buying the new DIC and sparkplugs)

Is there any way to know the exact problem? (like a computer test, tech 2...) I don't know and that's why I'm asking.

I have to say that I'm affraid about doing it myself... haven't done such a big job on a car before... you guys are talking about motor mounts, lifting a transmission, opening a mechanical component... :eek:

and I'm wondering, is there any of you guys around Los Angeles that are willing to help me with this? I would do it myself, but I feel I'll have much more confidence if there's someone supervising .
 
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