Planning on diving in and attempting some repairs on 2006 9-5 (including a/c compressor, big thanks to all those responding to that post) and replacing o2 sensors will be one of those jobs. Looks pretty simple to remove both "upstream" and "downstream". Which one is which by the way? They are inexpensive enough to just replace both at one time. I'm doing this on a hunch. I have all the issues I understand are associated with sensors going bad. Idle is slightly rough, but smooths out immediately when accelerating. Starts right up easily too. But even more of an issue is it's running very rich, and fuel mileage has sunk. Smell is very strong. I'm hoping replacing may solve the problem. Which sensor is likely the problem? Is removal simple? That is, will they unscrew easily enough? Anything to look out for? Very soon, I need to pass a smog test, and I don't think it would pass as is. It would be hit or miss.
2006 9-5 o2 sensor replace
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I do, but the code is P0300 random cyl. misfire, a code I've had off and on almost since I bought it 2 yrs ago. DIC is new, plugs new all replaced by previous owner 10000 miles ago.
Bob both respondents are me. Accidentally registered 2 accts. Anyway I guess I'm way off on the o2 sensor issue. Don't know what the plugs are, but I have new NGK's if needed. But it runs perfect. Just toxic. Cars behind me fade away from the fumes I notice. Is the P0300 code really tied to that symptom?
Hmmm, ok I'll take the comments you've all stated and nix the idea of replacing sensors. Thought I was on the right path, but will have to get a tech2 analysis.
Even a generic ODB II reader with live data should show the voltage readings of the two sensors. First sensor should cycle around between 0.1 V and 0.9 V, second sensor should be around 0.5V. If that's what you are seeing, sensors are good.
Pull the plugs, make sure the proper NGK are installed with the correct gap. All the info is in the Owner's Manual.
Pull the plugs, make sure the proper NGK are installed with the correct gap. All the info is in the Owner's Manual.
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Clearly they are needed, correct spark plugs and a know good DIC are CRITICAL to the cars operation, why you are fighting us confounds me.
Not fighting at all. Was only questioning because those 2 things (DIC and plugs) had just been done by previous owner 10K ago. Brand new. Have the receipts, and another new DIC isn't cheap. So, I'll start with EdT's suggestions since I do have OBD scanner and new plugs. Beyond that, a mechanic will have to pinpoint. Always appreciate your insight and help on these matters.
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Understood, but not knowing which plugs and which DIC you have while chasing operating issues is an unnecessary lack of information given it takes under five minutes to check such important components.
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MAF readings are only useful if you have a LOT of information - load, outside temp, engine speed, etc. The statistic you really want is MAF deviation, which very few (maybe no) generic readers will report. A rule of thumb is .13#/m at 500rpm per liter of displacement, so without busting out a calculator one would expect to see about .5#/m on a 9-5. You're in the ballpark. However, the typical behavior of a bad MAF to be ok at idle and get progressively worse with more flow. On a Saab, that often means things are mostly ok til you're on boost.
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Check your spark plugs and DIC to see what brand/model was used. If they are not the OEM versions it will give you issues the whole time you have it.
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Still fighting the DIC check I see. 😁
Seriously Bob?? What's up with that commentary? Will gladly replace it. Just learning as I go.
OK, thank you for the info. Each step I'm learning about this.
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