Can anyone direct me to, or provide "simplified" steps to remove/replace a/c compressor on a 2006? I get the basics of what I may need to do, but have you ever done it and do think an amateur can at least get it to the point of then taking it in for the recharge? "Simplified" being the operative word here.
2006 9-5 a/c compressor replacement
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i thought about doing a compressor replace myself but after considering the whole evacuation procedure and having to keep moisture out of the new compressor and lines plus the downtime I decided to spend the $800 to have it done by my local Saab shop.
I wish I could get it all done for $800, but the bill would be closer to $1700. I posted last summer about this compressor story and ended up not doing anything about it as we headed into Fall/Winter. Now, here in Arizona it's beginning to get warm and I need to get this done before the Summer heat. The system has already been evacuated and a new drier was installed. That's where we stopped, because the markup on the compressor was going to be over 100%. The mechanic did a leak test and all is OK. The compressor clutch itself never locked up so mechanic also said the condenser should be OK too. So, my plan would be to buy a rebuilt compressor from Rock Auto. Total price delivered is $153.00. If I could just do this, then get it recharged, I'm willing to risk a failure in the system. If it fails, I'm only out the $153.00, plus new condenser of about $147.00, which I would replace if buying a better quality Nissens compressor anyway. But can I do it? Not sure.
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I can do water pump, alternator etc swaps, if I was in your situation I would do it myself for sure...I'd be a little concerned about the quality of a $153 compressor, especially in Arizona... that's just me.
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Just make sure all of your gaskets are replaced and put some silicone on them to help them seal. The refurbished compressor should work fine.
I did this last summer. The condenser was the tougher part, but all of it is doable in a day of up and down under the car a lot. My nissens condenser came with a receiver drier already fitted... Thus leaving just 3 o-ring seals (iirc) all different sizes (iirc) for where the a/c pipes (hoses) conect:
1: high side compressor
2: low side compressor
3: at condenser
you can use saab part numbers, or just match carefully from a kit of o-rings (part numbers : 4757084 4756110 30541941 but double check)
if your condesner needs a receiver drier, that will be a 4th oring. (usually included with new part)
the key is not to pinch your o-ring seals, thus the lubrication helps.
if you have a vacuum pump you can draw a vacuum once youve tightened everything up and see if it holds overnight.
It took me about a day all said and done....the "pad" system seems to be easier to remove and install hoses and pipes than older connections in older systems i have repalced where there was more room for corrosion and thread striping...
1: high side compressor
2: low side compressor
3: at condenser
you can use saab part numbers, or just match carefully from a kit of o-rings (part numbers : 4757084 4756110 30541941 but double check)
if your condesner needs a receiver drier, that will be a 4th oring. (usually included with new part)
the key is not to pinch your o-ring seals, thus the lubrication helps.
if you have a vacuum pump you can draw a vacuum once youve tightened everything up and see if it holds overnight.
It took me about a day all said and done....the "pad" system seems to be easier to remove and install hoses and pipes than older connections in older systems i have repalced where there was more room for corrosion and thread striping...
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I do all the ones that I remove. The silicone lubrication is very important imo.
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Great info. I had to rebuild or system after our car was in a accident. But with new gaskets/lubrication everything sealed up nicely.
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You should definitely not use silicone on AC system parts. Anything that could ever dislodge and end up plugging a narrow air passage. You could use something like Nylog, but as with most systems you really want to use the same oil that will go in the system... that way, it's not a foreign material. As @andtheHawks mentioned, the PAD system makes for easy & reliable seals. You really shouldn't need anything other than a little PAG oil on the orings.
& always replace the condenser, drier when replacing the compressor. Verify the new compressor comes with enough pag oil already installed. If not you'll need to add some. & always vacuum the system down before attempting to charge with freon. I like to blow the system out with compressed air before installing the compressor as well. Its not rocket science, just make sure theres no condensation in the system & dont overfill.
Wow, so much great information from all of you on this. I'm seeing the picture more clearly, and I agree with the consensus of trying it myself. Labor costs, and frankly absurd markup amounts on parts almost forces the attempt. Concerning the condenser, I'm going to take mechanics word that it is probably still OK because there was no catastrophic failure of the compressor. It's just weak, and continued (last Summer) to blow those 10amp fuses. As mentioned, he did install new drier, so it looks like the only issue now is gasket & o ring replacement. Please add any further info on steps you took in doing this, i.e. bumper removal??, etc. Really appreciate your help one and all.
I agree, info so helpful. Thanks so much for posting!
Good point. If I was driving it daily in July/August heat here I would be more concerned. But it's more of a weekend car, and I just need to try and get it operational. If all goes well with this, I may just buy the Nissens and put it away. Who knows what prices will be like in the future.
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I've been "acquiring" parts for a while now, I'm about to retire a 2000 Aero manual that has an AC compressor on it with only 5,000 kilometers a head with about 10,000 kilometers and a one year old DIC and spark plugs, GS short shifter etc....not much can go to scrap anymore really.
Whenever you open up the system, its recommended to replace the drier.
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There is silicone made for A/C systems. There is nothing to dislodge. It is not a blob of silicone. You only use light film. If you do not use something like this then end up with torn gaskets or bad sealing. https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-59019-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B000DCNG38
Saaberachi said:
You should definitely not use silicone on AC system parts. Anything that could ever dislodge and end up plugging a narrow air passage.
Wow, how did that happen?
You should definitely not use silicone on AC system parts. Anything that could ever dislodge and end up plugging a narrow air passage.
Wow, how did that happen?
Yes, I’m about to have to do the same thing. Only My 9-3 CV , electrically everything comes on. I have power all the way to the clutch compressor spins, no knocking. I’m hoping I can get under there and pull the clutch and not have to pull all of the AC stuff. Just had to do it twice on my wife’s minivan. Not fun not terrible but not fun. And take heed on those cheap compressors because that’s how I had to do it twice. AnyWho I’m hoping that my car clutch decides to kick in once I pull it and clean it. I know what it’s like I live in Louisiana. (also used to live at 19th and Thunderbird in Phoenix #LivingInABlastFurnace.
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