[kminnick1]

Hi guys- I've been scouring this board (and everywhere else) for information on my 2006 Saab 9-3 AC. The AC was blowing ice cold, went into a meeting and when I came out, it would not come on. The ACC unit comes on, but nothing. Here's what's been checked:
1. Maxi-fuse #35 & #36 (pulled, checked with meter, both good)
2. AC compressor Relay (still good)
3. Jumpered AC Relay location and compressor does click in
4. AC compressor fuse (pullled, ohmed, still good)
5. Thought my low speed cooling fan & fan controller was questionable, so I replaced Both cooling fans and fan controller. Did Not help and what a pain job.
6. cleaned contacts on air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor
7. Outside air temp is reading correctly
8. AC system has full refrigerant charge per my AC gauges
9. Performed the 4 power/ground tests on the connector for the cooling fan controller and everything functioned correctly.


So, I'm at a loss here. I don't have a Tech 2, and I'm 3.5 hours each way from a viable Saab dealer (or whatever you call them now). I'm in the middle of the Mojave desert, so not any help around me. From my reading, even if the cabin fan went out, the AC system would still come on and cool the evaporator. Thanks for your help.

 

[steve12955]

May not be your issue, but....my former '99 9-3 exhibited same symptoms and all components checked out. Got a copy of the wiring diagram and traced an intermittent connection issue with a wire that ran from the ECU in the passenger footwell to the MIU (main instrument unit) in the driver's side dash. Noticed that when I wiggled the large white connector that plugs into the bottom of the gauge cluster I could get compressor to operate. I was able to re-pin the faulty wire and it solved the issue. I think the problem was caused by the weight of the wiring loom: when the cabin temps were high (like after sitting in the sun with windows closed) the cloth tape wound around the loom would soften allowing slight movement of the loom and stressing the connector.

I have an '08 9-3 4D and '09 Sport Combi and frankly have never even looked under the dash so have no idea if the MIU or wiring are configured the same way on 03+ models. I'd suggest you get a copy of the wiring diagram for your '06 and trace the compressor lead.

 

[aerojon]

the ac won't engage if the cabin fan isn't running

 

[kminnick1]

Both good points. I can pull the passenger side apart and see if the cabin fan is stuck. Probably more work to see if the connector is getting getting power from the ACC. I did the test probe to the head shell of the cooling fan controller and that tested good. I need to pull the AC relay and see if power is being applied to the primary side (i.e. requesting the compressor to run).


On another note, a friend loaned me his Tech 2, but it is with GM software only and no CANdi adapter. Is this any use to me to pull codes? Thanks,

 

[innolefan]

A 2006 requires the CANDI module. Maybe someone in California has one near you...

 

[kminnick1]

Since I have so many Saabs in my family (currently 4, but have owned 7 before them), I went ahead and bought a Tech 2 clone with Saab 148.000 software. I just got in from the hot car (it's 105 in the shade - but the car is Not in the shade...) from pulling codes. Hopefully someone can help me make sense of this:
ACC B0193 08 Fan Blower Circuit
BCM B0158 05 Outdoor Temperature
XXX B1019 54 SID


The ACC error said 'invalid signal'. Not sure what that means. The BCM error said 'open circuit - short to B+'. But when I ran some other tests, the Tech 2 told me the outside temp was 39 C (probably because the car is in the sun), so it seems like the outside temp is correct. It displays in the SID ~the correct temp.


The Tech 2 would not let me function the AC compressor relay unless the car was off. Any ideas or other tests with the Tech 2 I should perform? Thanks,

 

[Hus_sho]

Unplug connector to the fan control (fan resistance if u like to call it that) it is exactly under the fan, 4 pin connector.
Test light between pin 3&4, using tech2 ACC activate blower fan to 100%, if the light comes ON, replace the fan controller.

At the same time, apply power to the other 2pin connector going to the fan itself, to make sure the fan is spinning and not jammed which then its probably what burnt the controller .

Check MAXI fuse 23 (30A) in the dash as well.

 

[Hus_sho]

By the way spray some cold water into the outside temp sensor see if its reading will change.

 

[kminnick1]

My connector to the fan controller is a mess. Not sure why as the fan still spins fairly easily. Ordered a new fan in case the bearings are really causing a high current issue. I don't think the connectors are available through Saab, but it looks like a 1/4" spade connector on each connection point would work. It did run (one trip to the store) after I had pulled the connector and cleaned it, but I could only clean it so well.

 

[Hus_sho]

I would change both the fan and controller, and defiantly repair the connector as a bad connection will defiantly melt both the connector and the controller.

 

[kminnick1]

Where does one get a new connector? The male blades on the controller appear to be the same size as a 1/4" spade, but then it would not be in a connector / head shell.


Seems no one wants to sell just the connector. They want to sell the controller and connector as many of these cars have this same problem.