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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have a similar situation where car wants to stall when cold - i.e starting cold engine when less than 40F outside? Symptoms much worse when it is damp. Also, my car takes 15 minutes to warm up (temp gauge to middle)while being driven at ~45 mph. Have ask the dealer numerous times to check it but they never find anything (surprise). No codes show and none have been recorded according to dealer. Bought this car in south texas new. now has 60k miles. Any ideas?
 

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Could be a bunch of things (ya, big help here huh!)

Is it only during the warm-up cycle that it runs rough, or does it run rough ALWAYS when its cold (i.e. you've driven it for 15 minutes, and it still idles rough)

If it always runs rough (although I'm not sure what the cold would have to do with it) I would check for a vacuum leak. If its only during the warmup cycle, it may be something else ... like cold muffler bearings.

Absolute worst case, I think you can have the dealer adjust the idle on the car up a few notches (not 100% sure about that, but I know BSR does this for their tuning on the automatics).

Finally, it could just be that's the way your car acts when it is cold. When I had my factory short-shifter put on my other car, the factory instructions said it would be more difficult than normal to shift while the gearbox was cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
muffler bearings

I checked the muffler bearings and they're fine :)

Car hesitates but never stalls. The first time i push the gas pedal down in drive the car hesitates as if it will stall. After this initial hesitation, it runs fine just takes forever to heat up.
 

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mbodo said:
muffler bearings.
Nice to have you around again, mbodo, but what in the world are muffler bearings??
http://www.metafilter.com/48328/The-elusive-muffler-bearing?

Cars that are slow to warm up and give poor winter idling may have a sticking thermostat. This and vacuum leak are the two most likely "old school" problems here. Vacuum leaks sometimes cause error codes in this car.

Not much has changed in thermostats in 50 years. But you do have to be careful these days to replace with the exact temperature needed by the ECM.

The most likely spot for vac leak on a 2.0 is at the point where the purge line connects to the intake manifold. This is right next to the oil dipstick.
 

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ctrlz said:
Nice to have you around again, mbodo, but what in the world are muffler bearings???
Muffler Bearings :lol: Buy some for your loved ones this Christmas!

The problem that's being described sounds hauntingly familiar to me - it was a recall campaign that SAAB had on the 2003's, although I was under the impression that they resolved this with software on all 2004's and beyond.

Essentially the circumstances were very similar with one difference - it would happen regardless of the temperature and regardless of whether or not the vehicle was warmed up. It would, at times, stall the car (5sp Auto).

I've got to believe that the dealer would have found a vacuum problem or thermostat problem ... but we've all seen stranger things!
 

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Agreed

mcscholz said:
Anyone have a similar situation where car wants to stall when cold - i.e starting cold engine when less than 40F outside? Symptoms much worse when it is damp. Also, my car takes 15 minutes to warm up (temp gauge to middle)while being driven at ~45 mph. Have ask the dealer numerous times to check it but they never find anything (surprise). No codes show and none have been recorded according to dealer. Bought this car in south texas new. now has 60k miles. Any ideas?
This could be a number of issues, but you shouldn't have any problems starting it quickly on sub 40 days. After all, these things were meant to run all year long in that kind of temperature. Also, the 15 min. warm up worries me. I've always believed that you should warm your car up as you go and that way it'll warm up faster. In fact, this is a suggestion SAAB included in my MY07 SC manual. In fact, here in Philadelphia, I've had mine in sub 40 degree weather for the past month outside with no issues. You've got to get your mechanics to give you a better answer.
 

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If the thermostat is functioning properly, the car's warm up time should be 4 to 6 minutes.

BUT, if we have a major malfunction and the cooling fans are running full force all of the time, then of course this electronics problem must be cleared up....this strange scenario could happen..one never knows.
Find a dealer who employs true mechanics ,not code readers or parts replacers... this "finding" can be nigh impossible and if you are not a DIY, then the only alternative is to suffer or suffer a bit less by driving a vehicle with good service(Chevrolet,Ford, VW ??).....
 

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One way I used to check the thermostat was when the radiator was cold take the cap off then start the car and let it idle. If the thermostat is working right it should be closed when the car is cold, the idea being the water in the car should heat up to the point the thermostat opens at the right temp. When that temp is reached you should start seeing the water in the radiator start to flow and cycle through the engine.

Haven't done this for years, really don't know with current engines and/or the turbo this makes sense.

Having low fluid in the radiator will also make the car take a lot longer to heat up to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks

now that you mention it the fan does run on and off even when freezing out. but it is running for the AC i think. The mechanics at the local dealer here are idiots. they have trashed my interior just doing 10k services. I wouldn't trust them with my weedeater. I'll have to dig into it myself but at least i know this is not normal now. Thanks!
 
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