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Discussion Starter #1
Car Specs:
SAAB
Year: 2005
Model: 9-3 Turbo Linear v4
Spec: Automatic


Hey y'all so basically my Saab doesn't wanna turn on anymore, She would crank & crank but with no success.
Upon inspection I noticed a Line had leaked its fluid onto the "ION MODULE" which has been replaced with no success.
Check Engine Light is ON
Had a mechanic come over to try & pull some Codes but the car wasn't giving a connection with his or my Scanner "Innova 3100 OBD2".
He suggested I replace the "CPS" & after doing so it still wouldn't turn on.
I've pulled the Coils to make sure they were good and all were reading 6.20ish
Fuel Pump was working
Battery was charged
I Then decided to disconnect & reconnect the ECM and now the car doesn't crank anymore like it did before, as I try to crank it does 1 click and the car just shuts down.
The mechanic before had also suggested that it could be the ECM but to keep is a last resort.

Now I'm here seeking help from my fellow Saab owners who probably know a solution.
 

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Did you hook the negative strap back up on the upper right bolt on the ECU?
 

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Also, pull ECM cables off and make sure all pins are intact, no corrosion, none bent/missing, etc....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you hook the negative strap back up on the upper right bolt on the ECU?
Also, pull ECM cables off and make sure all pins are intact, no corrosion, none bent/missing, etc....
Yep, I made sure the bolt went through the little strap thing & There was no Corrosion or bent pins. I'm frustrated as hell with this thing, been at it for weeks tryna get it to run and nothing. I wanna get multiple opinions on whether or not its the ECM thats gone bad before i drop the load on a new one
 

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There is no load to drop. Get a $35 cable, free software, a used $100 ECU and clone your old one onto the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is no load to drop. Get a $35 cable, free software, a used $100 ECU and clone your old one onto the new one.
I ordered the Cable & installed the cloning software already, I'm hoping I can pull the codes using the program but idk since the scanners aren't getting a connection with the port.
check the diag socket that the connectors are all in place,also check the fuse is intact for the diag socket.Without knowing what the code/s are,could be anything..
Might be stupid to ask but where is the Diag socket fuse?
 

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The pink fluid above it leaked onto the module, but i replaced it

No way

same thing happened to me wierd place for in important part, but mine after a few days started starting up normally I would have to crank a few times but also suspect pump is on its way out after these hard starts, possible?

last night I spray cleaned the connectors and wire bundle electric cleaner but as far as I know it’s as clean as I could get it might be still some problems with it during startup but only in the am .. after the morning car starts right up during that day ? Fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No way

same thing happened to me wierd place for in important part, but mine after a few days started starting up normally I would have to crank a few times but also suspect pump is on its way out after these hard starts, possible?

last night I spray cleaned the connectors and wire bundle electric cleaner but as far as I know it’s as clean as I could get it might be still some problems with it during startup but only in the am .. after the morning car starts right up during that day ? Fuel pump?
No way! Mine never started the next morning, I did end up replacing the module but no go. The fuel pump works and fuel pressure was good.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There is no load to drop. Get a $35 cable, free software, a used $100 ECU and clone your old one onto the new one.
So the cable came in today and tried to see if it would give me codes using "TrionicCanFlash" and no codes were received. Do you think if I replace the ECM it would fix the issue with the car not giving codes, as well as fixing the issues I'm having with it starting up?
 

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Well, you can't communicate with it so it may be a lost cause. I would look into fuses and wiring at obd2 port to make sure no issue there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, you can't communicate with it so it may be a lost cause. I would look into fuses and wiring at obd2 port to make sure no issue there.
I checked the fuse for the OBD port and it was good, Also unscrewed the port itself to check if maybe one of the pins had slipped out from the back as I've read from some other people and all were good.
 

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Go basics
Did u check battery voltage ?
Did u verify voltage at pin 16 and ground at pin 4 on the obd socket ?
Also look at the obd socket from behind while ur obd reader is plugged, do u see any metal pins backing up from behind ?
If all thats checks out, u will need a tech2, could be any module on the P-bus has failed, most common ABS $ CIM ?
Do u have access to a tech2 ?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Go basics
Did u check battery voltage ?
Did u verify voltage at pin 16 and ground at pin 4 on the obd socket ?
Also look at the obd socket from behind while ur obd reader is plugged, do u see any metal pins backing up from behind ?
If all thats checks out, u will need a tech2, could be any module on the P-bus has failed, most common ABS $ CIM ?
Do u have access to a tech2 ?
I was having battery issues, so I charged my battery up to around 12.4v and she cranked again but then no longer cranked, so I check the voltage after attempting to re crank and battery went down to 10v. I pulled the battery from my other car and charged it to a solid 13v and now my car cranks again and the volts stood at 13v. I did check the voltage on both 16 and 4th pin
and was getting 3-6v. I ended pulling the port out and checking behind it to see if any pins had been pushed out but all seemed good. As for a Tech 2, I dont have access to one but did find a guy locally who charges $40 for a quick scan. Interesting that you mentioned "ABS" that light is On along with the "Check Engine Light".
 
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