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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2003 SC vert because my 2001 SE vert is down with transmission trouble. The new convertible has issue starting. Sometimes it'll start sometimes when you turn the key don't do anything and other times it will crank and not start. I checked the pressure coming from the fuel pump and is exactly 40 PSI which as I understand is the correct pressure. When I was trying to start this car a couple of days ago after I bought it my friend was standing outside and he noticed that the flashers were flashing and I noticed that the OnStar button in the car went from red to Green. I've been able to read a couple other threads were people had chimed in with similar issues it wasn't the main theme of the thread. It seemed as though the answer for them was to disconnect the OnStar box because it was going bad. It was on a 9-5 not a 9-3 though. On the 95 the unit is in the trunk for the OnStar I'm wondering on a 2003 9-3 vert where the OnStar box is. Can I simply disconnect the box and fix the issue. If you cycle through the key fob on off on off eventually the car will usually start. When I bought the car there was a brand new ignition cassette in the engine and two brand new edition cassettes in the trunk. They had also ripped apart the dash where the sensor for the key fob is. so I knew they were having a starting issue that they were trying to figure out. I know the car has a brand new ignition cassette I would assume it has new plugs but I haven't looked yet. the car has a couple issues I believe it has a clogged catalytic converter it's throwing a code for map sensor or manifold pressure because of the clogged catalytic converter I believe it also has an ABS sensor issue the speedometer will come in and out when you're driving and of the brake light and ABS light will also come in and out intermittently. I have a Tech 2 coming in a few days so I was going to wait on the ABS issue till I could just scan the car. If anyone has had a problem with OnStar going bad and had to deal with this or if they know where it's located I would be very appreciative for the info.as always I'm greatful for the help.Thanks Ron R.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The SSID in the car was broken. I had a new one in my house I just threw in. After it ran its check it said service alarm system. I know these cars have an immobilizer is it hooked into the car alarm system and or the OnStar system as well and can it just be unplugged. Thanks again
 

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I know most of us that are hardcore Saab guys probably have enough Parts laying around our garage to build three or four cars. And I was just laughing to myself thinking who has 4DIS , 3 SIDS, 5 power antennas just in case we do cuz that's the stuff we love. It just put a smile on my face. It's like Tool Time with Tim and his tools rrrr rrr rrrr. That's me trying to right the grunts down and he used to do on the show. I hope you guys get a laugh out of this have a great day fellas.
 

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I believe fuel pressure should be 45psi... I believe the T7 cars have a 3 bar FPR, so fuel pressure is always 3 bar (~45psi) above manifold pressure.

A clogged cat will not cause a MAP sensor fault. A MAP sensor fault indicates the ECM is not getting a satisfactory response from the sensor.

The "Service Theft Alarm" is usually caused by defective batteries in the alarm module in the left front wheel well. Lots of threads about rebuilding them. Tech 2 will pull the precise nature of the error, but it's usually the batteries.

The oddball key behavior could be the OnStar module, but could also be the ignition switch. Costs nothing to unplug the module, so it definitely seems like a reasonable place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the information I'll tell you where I came up with the 40 PSI. I was looking at your old for a new fuel pump because I assumed the 40 was too low and they have a performance pump and in the writing under the performance pump it said this pump pumps x amount at 40 PSI. Now I know that PSI is and everything there's also how much fluid is being pumped in a specific time but the fact that it said 40 PSI led me to believe that that's what these cars are supposed to be I haven't looked any further into it. As far as the manifold pressure goes I know it has a clogged cat because I tempt the cat. I've worked on these cars before when they were throwing mass airflow sensors and all kinds of stuff was happening because of the pressure building up in the engine I just assumed it was in a far-fetched to believe that the manifold pressure could go up if it's not being able to release itself through the exhaust pipe correctly but if I fix the cat and the map light won't come off then obviously I've got to figure out you know is it the sensor. They actually told the previous owner that the plenum had to come off and it needed a new gasket it was leaking. Who knows it's possible but the car seems to be running well when it is running I don't know I have to do some more testing to figure that out I guess. I just need to figure out where the OnStar unit is in this car and unplug it and that's a good place to start see if the car starts up and yes I can't wait till the tattoo arrives in a few days and that will make my life a lot easier I hope. But thanks again for the info it helps a lot. Ron
 

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Intermittent really sounds like an ignition switch issue, seems such a common failure point when referring to power distribution.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did it again I posted it without reading it . I keep trusting that this phone is hearing me correctly. I was looking at E- Euro parts and that's where I saw the performance pump at 40 PSI . sorry for the screw-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It was intermittently a few days ago at this point it's just crank and crank and crank and cranking with no sign of starting and it's getting 40 PSI at the fuel rail. To me it seems like the ignition is turned off I don't know but I'm assuming the immobilizer can do that either through the alarm or through the OnStar.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I found a small broken wire coming out of the trunk lid right next to the wiring harness that goes through to the body they're very small wires is a three wire setup so I don't think it could be anything that important but I put a picture up to see if anybody knows what it might be
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also the key fob is working fine and I know from previous problems with ignitions if the ignition wasn't popping up or it was stuck the door locks wouldn't open and close actually had a lot of problems with my 2001 with the ignition I had to change it so I'm not so convinced that it's an ignition . I think it's something electrical. like I said the sid is saying fix your alarm and the OnStar is doing funny things along with the flashers coming on without pushing the flashing button .so there is something going on with OnStar unequivocally and if the car is telling me the alarm is messed up I got to believe it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks a lot for the info on the OnStar box and that wire I showed pictures of was just a audio video wire that someone must have just put in there for something I remove the carpet on the trunk lid and it was nothing so don't worry about it guys.
 

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The immobilizer disables the starter, so if it's cranking it's not the immobilizer. You could have multiple problems - a bad ignition switch, onstar module, crank sensor, DIC, or wiring. You need to check systems methodically. Buying a basket case like this means you're going to spend a lot of time chasing loose ends - be prepared to check them all.


The fuel pump is rated X flow at Y pressure, but that has little to do with anything. The pump is capable of quite a bit of pressure. 8 bar or more. The fuel pressure regulator is what controls pressure, so resting pressure is always going to be whatever the fuel pressure regulator is rated for. On old 900Ts it was 2.5 bar or 2.8 bar, on 9-3s I am pretty sure it's 3.0 bar, which is common throughout the automotive industry. The FPR ensures fuel pressure is always X bar OVER manifold pressure. With the engine off, manifold pressure = atmo. Under full boost, manifold pressure = atmo + ~.75 bar, etc.


If you have an intake manifold leak, that will definitely result in errant MAP sensor readings and could be the source of that code. IME, gasket leaks are unusual, but there's a lot of stuff connected to the manifold that should be checked.


Small broken wires aren't unimportant. Even cars as old as a 9-3 make use of low-amperage circuits that don't need big wires. Any incomplete circuit is a potential hazard.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I disconnected the OnStar and it didn't do anything it's still just cranking over. As a mechanic when I drove a car yesterday I park it on the hill and it doesn't start today my gut is always going to lean towards a weak fuel pump just cuz that's what I seen in the past. What really sucks is that the car is on a hill if I roll it to the bottom of the hill it'll be in the road and then if it doesn't start when it's flat I won't be able to get it back up the driveway. If it was flat I might find out it starts and then I know I got to change the fuel pump and the fuel filter. I'll tell you I laughed my *** off if at the end of all this adventure that's all it was and I couldn't get the car flat to try it. Since it says the alarm needs to be fixed on the S I d I'm going to go ahead and look for the batteries in the wheel well. See if I can fix this alarm issue and then see if the car will start. Those wires turned out to be nothing just an audio video cable that someone cut as opposed to just pulling it out. If the plenums leak in I'll just put a new gasket in not a huge deal but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it for now I just want to get the car starting again. I got to figure a way to get this thing flat. Considering my tech 2 should be here by Friday I'm not overly concerned. I've been patient so far so I'll continue to wait patiently for these problems to he solved.
 

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The anti-theft alarm will not prevent it from starting - it just makes noise. The immobilizer is part of the ECM and unlocked with the key. If the starter turns, it's not the immobilizer. Your problem is elsewhere - fuel, spark, or mixture. Check the usual suspects - crank sensor, injector pulses, fuel pressure, coil triggers. Unfortunately just knowing fuel pressure doesn't eliminate anything since the pump is primed automatically with the key turn.
 

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I'm surprised that the crankshaft position sensor didn't get mentioned until Jvanabra's last post. Minirex, have you replaced that yet, or tried swapping the one out of your other car?

The alarm batteries are special things that you'll have to order. They're soldered in, and the pin configuration is almost unique to Saab. Another thing to consider is that the capacitors on the alarm siren's circuit board are just about as likely to cause the error messages as the batteries. I'd just remove the alarm siren and disable the Service Theft Alarm message on the SID when you get your Tech 2.

The ignition switch can cause all sorts of odd electrical problems. The current for a lot of the car's systems flows through that switch, so any internal problems can cause big issues. Just because the switch pops up doesn't mean that it's okay. If your radio, wipers, and lights are all working fine, and the switch pops up and springs back from the starting position, I'd be more inclined to believe that it's fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It could be the crank position sensor but it's not sending a code for that that doesn't mean it's not it. My gut still leading me towards low fuel pressure I got to get this thing flat and see if it starts up. Someone was saying sometimes the batteries in the wheel well go bad on the alarm system and that can mess with it starting but I hear you I mean if the alarm system can't stop it from starting then it can't but I no in like other vehicles like a Chevy for instance if the Securities on it'll disengage the ignition say you won't even hear the starter turn so I guess if this car follow suit the fact that it's cranking means the alarm isn't shutting it down. Let me ask you this jvanabra when my tech two comes in a few days you think it'll be a lot easier to pinpoint what's going on. Will I be able to hook it up and try to start the car and actually be able to see what's happening. Thanks a lot brother you're always helpful and now to go I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah Jeremy you got it exactly right everything works perfectly including the radio antenna lights. My buddy told me my flashers were on when I was inside the car the other day but I was turning the key on and off so the lights were going on and off I'm not sure if he actually saw flashers or just two lights flashing. So I kind of feel like it's not the ignition like I said I just keep leaning towards fuel pressure but you never know thank you for the information.
 
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