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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a small background about the car. I purchased it from my girlfriends dad last week with a input speed sensor code showing and the car was in limp home mode only shifting to 2nd and 5th gear when put into manual mode. I went to a pull a part and got both input and output Trans sensors for < $20. After swapping the bad sensor and putting the battery back in I cleared the old code and drove the car around town. For about 10 miles there were no codes and perfect driving then all of the sudden at a stop sign the car acted like it was in neutral in every gear including reverse. While on the side of the road I changed the Trans fluid, swapped input sensors around and even rolled the car around thinking I could engage a gear but nothing works. As it sits now the car has been towed back to my garage where I can work on it. Please send me some knowledge about this thing and what I might be looking for besides a new transmission haha. Thanks again!
 

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I was going to say a new girl friend, but I won't - I just typed it instead.

What did the old transmission fluid look like? The '03s were notorious for the transmission fluid being contaminated by antifreeze that mixed in the radiator. IIRC, there was a Saab campaign to replace the washers that caused the problem.

If you do decide to swap transmissions, be aware that the torque converter needs to set correctly into the bell housing, There are two slots in the TC that must align perfectly with the pump shaft tabs, otherwise you could ruin the new transmission.

Download a copy of both the WIS and EPC. They will help immensely. There is a week-old post in this forum about downloading and running them in Win 7 and beyond... Ron
 

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Transmission Valve Body could be bad too. Also Transmission control module. Only two things which I have seen before causing this.

How many codes come up when plugged into an OBDII reader?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Old fluid was red/brown but not burnt smelling. I did notice the connection where the filter side of the intake connects to the turbo was completely disconnected so I fixed that back. Also I noticed on the positive battery terminal connector there is a black box that has a reset button (assuming it acts as a circuit breaker/fuse) and the small wires going to it looked burnt up and exposed where they go into that reset button and now I have gotten a stability control failure bot no codes through scanner (not tech2). I did have car towed 5 miles back home and not sure if this could cause the stability failure. One weird thing though after putting the battery back in I started the car and it went into gear and drove forward and reversed back into my garage. Then I turned the car off grabbed phone and wallet got back into the car and it went back to just revving up and not engaging in any gear. After I jacked the car up started it and put in drive and there is no tension on any wheel... I'm going to download WIS and EPC and check those out today and will report back after further testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm still completely stumped as far as if this could be an electrical issue. One thing I'm leaning towards is the valve body but I'm unsure if there is a single solenoid that would prevent the Trans from engaging in both forward and reverse gears. I'm going to look into if I can find out if I could test voltages going to solenoids before I open it up and start testing resistances.
 
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