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Hi Y'all,
So I am two years in with my 2003 Aero, with passenger side Xenon and driver side fog light out. Recently, I discovered that my left fog light socket and bulb had come loose and been ripped off by the road. I replaced with a new GM socket and Sylvania bulb, by just splicing it onto the wires. I did notice that the wires were corroded a good way down, so I cut them off back to where the wire looked good before splicing. However, the foglight did not light up. And, there was the right Xenon light out. The bulb looked suspect so I automatically bought a new one. Still no light or fog light. Now, add this to the mystery - in the beginning, my brights still worked. Then I lost those as well, and I was away from home at night. Rather nerve wracking, being down to one light. But anyway, the stalk on the steering column which controls the brights would not stay back, and I soon realized, my one remaining headlight would not turn off, unless I set the switch in the middle of off and on. However, it soon would not shut off at all unless the car was off. I had Bosch 666 Mod relay which I had recently purchased, and popped it in. I had my brights back, and the Mod worked as advertised, but the right Xenon and left fog light are still out. My question is, does this sound more like a switch problem, or a ballast/controller problem, or some other problem as yet unknown to me? Also, is it possible to use a conversion kit to change the D1S Xenons to LEDs. If it is most likely the ballast, can I just replace the ballast with a new one? Does it require a Tech II to change ballasts? Any advice or input would be appreciated. My inspection sticker is due in January, so I'm getting down to the wire.
 

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But anyway, the stalk on the steering column which controls the brights would not stay back, and I soon realized, my one remaining headlight would not turn off, unless I set the switch in the middle of off and on.
Just an FYI. In North America, as delivered from the factory, all lights on these cars are on all the time, It's how they are. So no, the lights will not turn off until the car is shut off. The high beams will only stay on when the head light switch is turned all the way to the right (position 2). Also, the stalk is not a mechanically activated unit like on Japanese and many other cars. You pull the stalk to active high beams, it then goes back to it's resting place, you pull the stalk again to de-activate high beams (the high beams are just a flap/shutter that opens within the xenon housing so the top portion of the lights are no longer blocked).
The rest of the issues you mention could be a few things. Wonky relay, bad wiring/not fully plugged in to the connector, switch gone bad, fuse...
I don't believe the ballasts need to be Tech II'd to the car, they should be plug and play.
As for the LED's, from what I've seen, the LED bulbs just go in place of the Xenon bulbs. I don't know about a specific conversion kit per se, but again, my Xenons work fine so I haven't actually looked into it very far.
I would try to find a Tech II to get to the bottom of the issue. For electrical things, you could be chasing ghosts until you become one yourself. The Tech II would be invaluable in this instance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your reply. It strikes me as strange that when I replaced the standard relay with the 666 Mod relay, it gave me back my brights, but not the bad Xenon. But, I think what I will do is completely remove the headlight assembly for a visual inspection. Then, swap the working ballast over to see if that solves it. I also have access to a working switch I can try out. I have seen D1S to LED conversion kits, some which claim to eliminate the need for factory ballasts, etc. Some which specifically say they will work on my year, make and model. It seems no Tech 2 is needed for either a new ballast or a conversion.
If it isnt the ballast, or the switch, I will get my meter out and start backtracking from the bad fog light to see if I can find a fault. One other thing occurs to me. The box under the hood that holds the relays and fuses. It was very dusty when I removef the cover. I wonder if that can be cleaned out.
Anyway, thanks again. If all else fails I will try to find a Tech 2...they are hard to find around here. No local places. Or maybe just buy a clone and be done with it. I expect I will get my moneys worth out of it with just three or four uses, and I plan on keeping my SAAB for as long as it runs. Going super strong at 238k miles. Well over 30 mpg on 93 octane. My baby. Lol.
 

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Have you tried just swapping the working xenon bulb to the other side to see if it really is something more than a defunct bulb?
I've had bulbs that were DOA. It's rare, but it can happen.
 

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The default high beams on HID lamps in North America open up the shutter on the HID unit fully. The 666 mod adds the halogen inner bulbs as well, which is the default in other areas. So it's no surprise that you now have high beams with the mod.....the halogen bulbs are doing this.

So start the car, turn the headlight switch to the 1 o'clock position, get out and look. I assume you'll see just the left headlight on. Now select high beams, get out and look. I assume that you will have the left HID, and left and right halogen bulbs on, but no right hand HID.

This does tell us that it's not a grounding problem for the right headlights.

If you have a helper, you can have them switch between low and high beams and listen for the click of the shutter in the right headlights.

Swapping HID bulbs, and then ballasts, might help locate the problem.

Is your HID warning light on?
 
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