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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've got something that's totally stumped me.

Last Thursday I got gas, came home for the evening, and parked my car in the driveway and shut off the engine. It was running 100% normal when I parked it (no lights on, smooth idle, etc)

When I went out Friday morning to go to work the car would crank but no start. The first two times I cranked it, the engine just spun with no sign of life. The third time it ran rough for a second or two and then died.

Since then I have swapped the CPS and DIC from another car with no luck. The tach does move slightly when cranking and CPS resistance measures around 580ohms.
It has fuel pressure measured at the rail when I key up. The tank is as of full two miles ago and the fluid in the rail smells like gas (so not thinking water in the fuel)
I have charged the battery fully.
I checked compression and aside from the numbers being low since the motor is dead cold, there is pressure being built.
The plug gap was 0.045" so I reset them to 0.035" but like I said, the car was running fine when parked.
I checked the engine controls relay and it clicks when 12V is applied.
There are no codes using a simple OBDII scanner (no Tech2)
I checked the ECU and injector fuses and those are fine.

I don't have an injector test light, but it seems like it's not firing the injectors. When I was testing the compression, the tops of the pistols still looked totally dry and never got any smell of gas.

So, I'm basically out of ideas. There isn't even a sputter when I crank it. What else could cause the engine to just not start overnight? It gave no signs of any trouble on Thursday evening.
 

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What was the fuel pressure at the trail and how long did it hold with key turned to ON (not start)? I forget but I think pressure should be around 41 PSI or so. If pressure builds up and then rapidly drops (i.e., does not hold steady for 20 mins) there may be problem with either the fuel pump or the check valves. Or possibly an incredibly clogged fuel filter. Kind of sounds like you don’t get fuel. Also, did you verify that you actually get spark from the plugs? Inspect the inside of the DIC connector - it has happened for some that the pins inside the connector has gotten loose from vibration and you may not have spark from the plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you hear the fuel pump prime for about one second when you turn the key to the on position?
Well, the HID leveling motors make it hard to hear the fuel pump, but I verified by pulling the fuel pump cover under the rear seat and feeling the pump run. Plus, pressure measured at the rail.

What was the fuel pressure at the trail and how long did it hold with key turned to ON (not start)? I forget but I think pressure should be around 41 PSI or so. If pressure builds up and then rapidly drops (i.e., does not hold steady for 20 mins) there may be problem with either the fuel pump or the check valves. Or possibly an incredibly clogged fuel filter. Kind of sounds like you don’t get fuel. Also, did you verify that you actually get spark from the plugs? Inspect the inside of the DIC connector - it has happened for some that the pins inside the connector has gotten loose from vibration and you may not have spark from the plugs.
Yes, it holds pressure, still high 30's at least 20 min later.

I put together a grounding wire setup for the plugs and did verify spark. DIC connector is clean and intact inside.


Of course, then I reassemble everything and the car starts... Well, it struggled and the first few times it started it would die if I touched the gas pedal. But after about five or six starts it idled and I could raise the RPM. I let it idle until it warmed up and all seems well. Running smoothly and all just like nothing happened. I think this points to a suspect DIC? I have put a spare DIC and a ratchet in the car for now. Will a Tech2 diagnose a failing DIC? I do know one guy with one but he lives an hour away so I probably need to hurry up and order a knockoff unit from eBay.
 

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As long as you've read the frequent tales of woe resulting from non-OEM DICs!

CPS resistance according to WIS is 770 to 950 at 20˚C and of course varies with temp. New ones - someone reliable on another forum had 895 out of the packet. Is your CPS Chinese or Bosch?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As long as you've read the frequent tales of woe resulting from non-OEM DICs!

CPS resistance according to WIS is 770 to 950 at 20˚C and of course varies with temp. New ones - someone reliable on another forum had 895 out of the packet. Is your CPS Chinese or Bosch?
All the parts I've got are OEM DIC's and Bosch CPS's.
 

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Does everything else in the car work normally? central locking and things like that?

Your situation sounds identical to when my TWICE died, except I had the added bonus of the central locking not working, so I couldn't even open the rear hatch. It literally gave up entirely when we turned the car off and then refused to fire up 5 minutes later. The TWICE had gotten wet and corroded and shorted. If you still have central locking, it's probably not that, but worth the check.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Does everything else in the car work normally? central locking and things like that?

Your situation sounds identical to when my TWICE died, except I had the added bonus of the central locking not working, so I couldn't even open the rear hatch. It literally gave up entirely when we turned the car off and then refused to fire up 5 minutes later. The TWICE had gotten wet and corroded and shorted. If you still have central locking, it's probably not that, but worth the check.
Everything else worked fine the entire time. I did try cycling the car locked/unlocked with the fob to see if that would reset something with the change in mode.
But, are there any controllers that will stop working and then start working again later?
 

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My issue was the TWICE shorting out. Since the TWICE manages the immobilizer it was preventing the car from starting. The car was unresponsive to the key fob, unresponsive to the inside switches, wouldn't pop the hatch, etc. Thankfully I own a tech2 and once we connected it yelled about the TWICE being unresponsive.

If you have all your central locking functioning, I would wager you do not have the same problem, which is good.
 

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I had a problem with my 08 Aero years ago. It too would crank but no start.

I was ready to get it towed when I happened to notice the blinking alarm light on the dash just looked funny....

I disconnected the battery for a short time, connected it and it started right up.

Never did it again!
 
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