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If you didn't, it's a good idea after setting cam timing and reinstalling the tensioner to rotate the engine over by hand at least five full revolutions to be sure things remained lined up. This is true of timing belts as well - always do a by hand test after setting cam timing.
 

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Pull the bolt out of the back of the tensioner, then remove it with a 27mm socket. See where you are. Wear is measured to the rear of the tensioner pad... 19mm is max.

You could do the "roll in a chain" but I'd be a bit worried about your guides with that funky side wear.
 

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How is the pad on the bottom of the valve cover? If it's torn up it could maybe cause that wear on the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
UPDATE: Saabrina is happy and healthy, I have put roughly 200 miles on it after resetting the cam timing and throwing a new tensioner in there. Now it seems I have made myself an exhaust leak where the downpipe section meets the cat-back system, and unfortunately tightening the clamp doesn't solve it, should I try throwing in a new clamp?
 

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It's a ball and socket type of joint - be sure both sides are clean and straight to ensure engagement. The clamp just holds both sides together - it has nothing to do with sealing.
 

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My preference whenever I open them is to sand both the male and female joint with 100 grit wet/dry paper. Get all the corrosion off. If they're old, there will still be some pitting on them, especially the non-stainless flex pipe. I smear a thin coat of Permatex #2 on the male end to seal the pits. Then bolt and go.

Pro-tip: Sometimes it's hard to hold the pipe up with one hand while you align the joint and bolt the clamp with your other hand - especially if you have the type of clamp that doesn't have welded nuts and you need two hands with wrenches. If so, pull them into position and wrap some aluminum duct tape tightly to hold them in the proper position. Then you're free to use both hands to get the clamp on there and tighten it all up exatly where you want it.
 

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I can't seem to figure this one out, got my heagasket changed, threw in a new MAF while I was at it, as well as all new vacuum lines. Now the car seems to die when I depress the clutch or throw it in neutral. Feeding it throttle seems to keep it alive for the most part but I would like to figure out what is causing this. At first I thought the CPS was suspect but I only unplugged it when doing the head job, who knows that might have been enough to break it. I am looking for some words of advice if anyone has anything to offer.
I had the same problem when I first got my 2000 saab 9-3. It would die while driving once I let off the gas pedal. And it wouldn’t start back up after dying. Once I got it home from the shady dealership, i used a volt meter to check the battery charge. It gave me a reading of 11.94V so I replaced the battery and checked coolant & oil. I also put some good ole fuel cleaner in it. After doing that, it drove significantly better but still had the dying issue. With the new battery, it would start right back up once it died. Next, I checked my vacuum lines and two of them were lose: 1) vacuum by the MAF sensor was a little loose. 2) my vacuum line by the idler pulley was loose and the clamp for it was practically resting ON the engine. Once I tightened those the dying issue went away.

When I had this issue I checked my battery voltage, engine coolant, MAF sensor, CPS, & checked vacuum lines for any leaks.

If you replaced the cps recently, did you take out the old o-ring for it?? Forgetting to take it out or accidentally putting the new oring on top of the old one might contribute to a bad CPS problem. I think a Dirty cps connection can cause rough idling/dying as well
 

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I can't seem to figure this one out, got my heagasket changed, threw in a new MAF while I was at it, as well as all new vacuum lines. Now the car seems to die when I depress the clutch or throw it in neutral. Feeding it throttle seems to keep it alive for the most part but I would like to figure out what is causing this. At first I thought the CPS was suspect but I only unplugged it when doing the head job, auto clicker who knows that might have been enough to break it. I am looking for some words of advice if anyone has anything to offer.
I had the same problem once I got it home from the shady dealership, i used a volt meter to check the battery charge. It gave me a reading of 11.94V so I replaced the battery and checked coolant & oil. I also put some good ole fuel cleaner in it. After doing that, it drove significantly better but still had the dying issue. With the new battery, it would start right back up once it died.
 
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