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MY saab had the check engine light on, so I took it in and found it had 4 different codes. P1107, P0113, P1334, and P1110. I found through various sources that all of these codes are related to the charged air intake in some way or another and was wondering what exactly could be causing all of these codes simultaneously?
 

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P0113-Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P1107- Dual Alternator Lower Circuit Malfunction/ Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1110-IAT Sensor (D/C) Open/Short
P1334-Information is scarce, but it seems to have to do with the direct injection cassette, so i may just need new plugs.
 

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P0113-Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P1107- Dual Alternator Lower Circuit Malfunction/ Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1110-IAT Sensor (D/C) Open/Short
P1334-Information is scarce, but it seems to have to do with the direct injection cassette, so i may just need new plugs.

p0113 and p1110 are most likey the IAT sensor gone bad but still check the wiring. also you could take the sensor out and clean it with some itake cleaner it might have some oil on it

p1107- also have to do some testing of the wiring first of the MAP sensor before telling you to put a new sensor in there

p1334 can be some really foulded plugs but usually is a fault in the DI
 

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Thanks for the help, I'm gonna try working on these codes and see if I can fix them (sorry for the late reply)
 

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I am getting the check engine 1334 error code. An initial research showed to be a typical code for DI. Changed the DI with a known good unit and it still throws the code. Car starts and drives fine though. No hiccups or no starts in the morning. The check engine light is not always on. Played with the ignition and noticed that the check engine light does not come on if I hold the ignition in the on position for a few seconds before the engine starts. The general concencus here is that the code is related to fouled spark plugs. My plugs have around 20,000 miles and possibly one of them may not be properly gapped. Possibly a good idea to replace them and see what happens. Any recommendations on spark plugs?
 

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Check you vacuum lines; check/change the charge air bypass valve.
P0113-Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P1107- Dual Alternator Lower Circuit Malfunction/ Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1110-IAT Sensor (D/C) Open/Short
P1334-Information is scarce, but it seems to have to do with the direct injection cassette, so i may just need new plugs.
 

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fastcorner - My 2008 9-5 requires NGK PFR 6H-10 to run properly. I would imagine your 2006 9-5 would be the same.
 

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Check you vacuum lines; check/change the charge air bypass valve.

The vacuum lines should be ok sincer there are no engine vibrations.
How is the air bypass valve related with the ignition code?
Also, where is the PCV valve located? How often it needs to be changed?


For now, I will purchase four NGK PFR 6H-10 spark plugs and see if the problem gets corrected. Does anyone know if this is the recommended spark plug in the owners manual?


Based on what I read, if the DI is going bad, the car has issues with starting the engine, rough idles, missing and stalling. Since I have none of the above, I assume both of my DIs are still good. I remember paying $70 for a used DI a couple years back. Since then, prices have scyrocketed.
 

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A bad or disconnected vacuum hose is not always engine vibration symptoms; a P1334 code is usually fouled plugs not a DIC going bad, a P1107 and P1110 charge air system and P0113 intake air temp sensor. In your case the spark plugs should solve your problem; the OP has to check these on his car.

The vacuum lines should be ok sincer there are no engine vibrations.
How is the air bypass valve related with the ignition code?
Also, where is the PCV valve located? How often it needs to be changed?


For now, I will purchase four NGK PFR 6H-10 spark plugs and see if the problem gets corrected. Does anyone know if this is the recommended spark plug in the owners manual?


Based on what I read, if the DI is going bad, the car has issues with starting the engine, rough idles, missing and stalling. Since I have none of the above, I assume both of my DIs are still good. I remember paying $70 for a used DI a couple years back. Since then, prices have scyrocketed.
P0113-Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P1107- Dual Alternator Lower Circuit Malfunction/ Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1110-IAT Sensor (D/C) Open/Short
P1334-Information is scarce, but it seems to have to do with the direct injection cassette, so i may just need new plugs.
 

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mehhh i threw out about 4 DIs that would throw combustion codes. i rarely see that its the spark plugs

but of course it could be if they have never been changed
 

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Did they just go on you or did any have cracks? 4 is a lot; I still have a v3.6 in my car; as per Saab records, was changed at 25K (137k now). I keep a spare v3.7 in the trunk. Which version DICs did you use? Just curious"

p1312- combustion detection cyl 1+2
p1334- combustion detection cyl 3+4

both at the same time or one or the other, verified them on my car, within a few days the codes would come up
 

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Did they just go on you or did any have cracks? 4 is a lot; I still have a v3.6 in my car; as per Saab records, was changed at 25K (137k now). I keep a spare v3.7 in the trunk. Which version DICs did you use? Just curious"

they were customer cars not my own personal DIs that kept failing.

i dont remember what versions they were i trashed them
 
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