[2002saab93]

I am new here. Great forum.

2002 SAAB 9-3 2.0 L B205R turbo w PCV upgrade done @ 50k
mileage 148k and 3k on ‘amateur’ rebuild :roll: bent valve repair and no sludge

I need help with the following conditions.

bluish white billows of smoke from exhaust, heavier on deceleration
bluish white smoke from oil filler tube with dipstick out
with dipstick out, there is also a light oil splatter coming out of filler tube
Lots of oil loss- back of the engine passenger side
Lots & lots ….. the hose from the sump to oil trap is covered
Oil is everywhere at that location due to driving conditions
When I clean it up and put it on ramps running at idle, no sign of leaking

Observations:
No leaks in area of Oil Pressure sensor, above starter
No leaks around Head gasket or cam cover gasket
No leaks around the fitting of the sump
No leaks in area of Oil Pump and Crank bearings
No coolant loss at all
All three PCV check valves were tested via blowing from both directions
Engine runs very good, very strong, lots of pick up and power
Check Engine Light and oil pressure light on dash are unlit
Oil does not seem to be contaminated, it is clean and clear

I would be pleased for several responses like this …

What to look for ….
1. ….. first mostly likely
2. ….. second possibility
3. ….. third it could be this

Any detail is welcome. I enjoy the read, but sometimes get lost in the middle of a paragraph. That’s on me, not anyone else. Thanks in advance.

 

[elliotbaggett]

Did you drive it again, before rechecking? It may be a component that only leaks under load...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk

 

[2002saab93]

Yes under load

Thank you elliotbaggett, yes, actually, off the ramps, drive, and back on two times. Same result, no leak when on ramps and at idle. The most I ran it at idle was 15 minutes but I think it needs some load, some how. Help!

 

[elliotbaggett]

Well... If it's not leaking anymore, I would be inclined to believe there isn't a problem. I'm assuming you've cleaned everything thoroughly... one last check though, getting it up to highway speeds to get the oil up to temperature. If the oil doesn't leak when it's at its most easy flowing, and under the most load, then it won't leak.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk

 

[elliotbaggett]

Use engine degreaser and a hose to make sure everything is as visible as possible... and take a few quarts of oil with you. You know, in case you find that leak lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk

 

[elliotbaggett]

Also, check the oil feed line and pcv to turbo line for cracks or leaks. They may expand with I heat just as the oil is thinning

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk

 

['97 Saab SE Turbo]

It sounds to me like you might have a cracked piston, or at the least a piece of the top land that the piston ring fits into may have broken off due to running lean in higher altitudes.

If it was me, I would do a compression check with a warm engine.

You'd be surprised how many T7 cars have had piston problems driving in higher altitudes in Colorado... Ron

 

[jakejm79]

Did you check the timing chain tensioner o-ring and seal washer, high pressure oil is fed to those and will leak a lot of oil, it will run down the block and make a mess.

Oil splatter and leakage from the dipstick could be excessive crank case pressure (might explain the leaking only under load and not at idle), like Ron said try a compression check.

Lastly if its an automatic, check the brake booster for oil, failed checked valves in the booster lines can allow for oil to be sucked up to the booster and then sucked into the intake under heavy vacuum, common cause of blue/white smoke under deceleration.

 

[Ch0pper]

Blueish white smoke – have you checked your turbo?

You mention lots of oil loss at the back of the engine. Check in and around the intake manifold – run your hand around the back.

Some oil in the intake is normal however excess can indicate failing turbo seals.

Appreciate car seems to be performing well however these could be early indicators so best to catch them sooner rather later.

Also pull the air intake to the throttle body and inspect for excessive oil.

Could simply be a failed ‘o’ ring.

How much oil are you losing..?

 

[2002saab93]

Some Replies to various issues

Ch0pper – No excessive oil around manifold or TB

jakejm79 - timing chain tensioner o-ring and seal washer is dry.
And I am ordering the Brake Boost hoses and check valves.

Ron – compression check with all plugs out and six cranks per cylinder

COLD
1- 125 2- 100 3- 120 4- 90

WARM 15 minutes at idle
1- 115 2- 105 3- 115 4- 55

Two teaspoons of oil in #4 cylinder changed it to 125

This is a second car for me ….. do I absolutely need a ring job???

Obviously cyl #4 is a concern. I would like any input on cyl #4. Would it have any connection to the excessive oil leaking under the car.

Thanks again for your help

 

[jakejm79]

Unless the gauge is off, I'd just find a new engine, none of those numbers are remotely where they should be. #4 is normally the most effected since its the furthest from the oil pump and is the first to suffer from low oil pressure.

What necessitated the engine rebuild 3K ago?

I doubt the external oil leak is related at around this age all the seals start to go, put excess crank case pressure from running anything other than the latest PCV update can lead to things leaking more than usual it could also compromise oil pressure. That is unless the leak is so bad that enough oil was lost so the oil pressure dropped.

 

[2002saab93]

reply to Jake

Gage is new, but ….???

Engine rebuild was due to bent valve on #1 cylinder

latest PCV update- based on images on internet, I have update #6. It was on the car when I bought it.

Thanks so much for your input.

 

[jakejm79]

How long have you had the car and how did the valve get bent? I know you said there was no sludge when you rebuilt it, but not impossible to imagine pan was dropped before normally even perfectly maintained vehicles have some sludge at that age.

Worn rings can cause blow by and excessive crankcase pressure leading to leaks as well.

I think the low compression numbers could be a factor in the leaks rather than it being the other way around.

Also its not impossible to imagine the fragile T7 pistons have become damaged too, they are more prone to failure at higher altitudes and lower octane fuel.

 

[2002saab93]

comment & question

After starting the 'amatuer' rebuild, it was very apparent that the previous owner had done a recent rebuild. Big mistake, on my part, in 'getting a good deal', to not have taken it to a mechanic before buying. Lesson learned.

In your opinion, with these compression numbers, can this be a adequate second car?

 

[jakejm79]

Sounds like the engine was sludged or lost a piston and the PO just slapped it together quick to get rid of it.

If it runs and drives, then keep driving it till it dies, but I'd be surprised if it ran very well at all with those numbers, it could also be a ticking bomb so I wouldn't rely on it for reliability.