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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I know this has been discussed quite a bit, but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer. I just hit 90,000 miles on my 02 9-3 and I'm not sure that the coolant has ever been flushed. Charles River Saab told me that the PO had a 50,000 mile service done there, but I don't if that involved flushing the coolant.

Anyway, is there anyone on here who has a 02-03 9-3/vert or 02-09 9-5 who has flushed out the original Dex cool to Zerex G-05? As far as I know the car has its original water pump/radiator/hoses, and knock on wood I haven't had any cooling system issues in the past year. I'd like to flush mine, but I want to make sure I'm putting the best coolant in the car.

Thanks in advance,

Bill
 

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Pentosin coolant (Pentofrost) is pretty popular on this forum. You can get it at a NAPA store, although they may have to order it for you (takes a day to get it). It comes in two colors; red and blue. The red is considered permanent and the blue is the regular stuff.

I put the blue stuff in mine. I had 86K on it and it had never been changed. The PO had to replace the water pump and they still didn't change the coolant. Its a fairly easy, albeit messy, job. You might throw a new thermostat on it as well. They're cheap and don't last forever.
 

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@pokeyjoe

How did you flush your car.

Just by draining the coolant at the radiator or by taking off a heater hose and flushing water through the heater core and the engine as well?

Do you need to take the thermostat out or leave it in to get a good cleanout of the system?

What about bleeding the system on a car that does not have a bleeding nipple?
 

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I'm a G48/G05 (HOAT) fan myself. But, you can go with the Dexcool (OAT) variety if you like.

Remove lower hose to drain. Fill with water, run for a moment, drain again.

That's probably enough. Unless your old coolant appears contaminated, a simple flush is fine. Clean, old coolant isn't horrible, it just doesn't have any corrosion protection left.
 

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There is no bleeding nipple and you don't need one. The air will work itself out after a heat cycle or two.

I didn't flush the heater core - I should have. I flushed according to the Haynes manual. Remove the lower radiator hose (don't even try to find the radiator drain. Chances are, it will break anyway) and let it drain. I found it easier to remove the intercooler hose directly above the radiator hose first. Its real easy to get off. Remove the thermostat housing (and thermostat). Its easy to get to on the back corner of the engine. Stick a garden hose in the block and flush it and then stick the hose in the now-removed, but still attached to the upper radiator hose, thermostat housing and flush the radiator out.

Its nearly impossible to get everything out of the system. So when you start adding coolant, add it straight, then add water. Don't premix because it will get diluted with whatever is left in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd like to get rid of the dexcool. I'm just nervous to switch it. I know if any of it gets left in there it will gel. If others can confirm that they've had no corrosion issues with dexcool, I'll probably just flush everything and refill with dexcool... I know some GMs had serious issues with it, but I don't know if it's the same deal with Saab engines...


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I've used Supertech from Walmart in everything I've changed for the last 20 years. I'm on my 3rd and 4th Italian bike - Supertech, GM, Ford, Nissan, Honda, Mazda, Mitsu, all I've used Supertech in them without any problems at all.

JMO
 

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I'd like to get rid of the dexcool. I'm just nervous to switch it. I know if any of it gets left in there it will gel. If others can confirm that they've had no corrosion issues with dexcool, I'll probably just flush everything and refill with dexcool... I know some GMs had serious issues with it, but I don't know if it's the same deal with Saab engines...


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Dexcool causes corrosion when there are any "contaminents" in the coolant. Unfortunately, that included things like the sealer GM ran through all their cars, and air. If your cooling system got low, Dexcool was a problem. Note that other OAT based coolants did not have the issue - it was tied directly to Dexcool. I believe they reformulated to solve the issues, but I agree, it's a risk.

The best way to flush completely would be to fill with water and run the engine up to hot, then let it cool down, drain, and do it again. After the second run there won't be enough Dexcool left in there to worry about. Most guys would let it go with one flush.

G05/G48 is roughly what the Saab Blue coolant was - low silicate, low phosphate, HOAT type. Zerex makes a G05, or you can use Mercedes, BMW, or the Ford or Chrysler coolants that meet that spec.
 

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You can get g05 at napa. It's what pretty much all the euro makes take. I put it in the bmw too. I have a color change planned since the previous owner filled with green. I'm replacing all the hoses, the thermostat and the water pump and switching to G05 "While I'm in there". Trying to get the saab and bmw on the same fluids so I don't have so many different things on the shelf at home. The wife's honda on the other hand needs honda coolant. Apparently that matters.

A saab mechanic I talked to said corrosion isn't an issue with these engines though, and to put G05 in it if it makes me feel better, but the engine is not sensitive to the coolant put in it. He suggested spending my money on the good oil, which the engine DOES care about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the input. I think I'll do a thorough flush and change it to g-05, I don't like Dexcool. While I'm in there I should probably do the hoses too, the car has 90,000. Also, would it be worth it do to the water pump?
 
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