[IH_viggen]

This is my first post, I’ve seen some similar stuff on here but not to a T. My main problem started a couple months ago and is getting increasingly worse to the point the car is cutting off 4+ times on my drive to work. It seems to be competently random unless I push the accelerator too quickly that will also cause it to shut off. Whenever it does it I just put it in neutral, turn it off and it starts right back up so I just put it in gear and continue to drive. I’m assuming this is a CPS issue, but have no idea how to go about diagnosing or fixing that. I also have not had an abs module since I purchased it, and it currently does not have the steering wheel air bag installed. Thank y’all very much for your help, it’s been nothing but an uphill battle with this car, I don’t want to give up on it because I think it’s cool as hell, but it’s getting downright dangerous to drive.

 

[jvanabra]

Why is there no ABS module or air bag?

 

[jmkcc]

Funny. I had to replace the ABS module on my Viggen when I first got it. Boneyard module worked fine. I also just mucked up my clock spring so am driving without driver airbag until a new one arrives.

I've had a bunch of issues with stalling, running rough etc. Replaced almost every sensor at least once. Finally sucked it up and ordered a NOS SAAB MAF which seems to have been the culprit. I probably replaced the MAF three times in one year, buying one that was progressively more expensive each time. So far the Saab MAF is holding up fine. The quality of a lot of aftermarket parts really sucks.

Do you stop the car to restart or just turn the key off and back on while still driving and it restarts. If so the ignition switch could be bad. I can;t recall if I had that problem on my 900 or a 93, but it would randomly die on the highway or the dash lights and everything in the instrument cluster would turn off or blink. That might be a 900 issue though.

The DIC might also be the culprit. Unfortunately it;s the kind of thing you have to swap out as I don't think there are any reliable tests for it. Are you throwing any OBDII codes?

There might be nothing as sad as having a Viggen that stalls when you stomp on the pedal...

 

[Saaberachi]

Somebody just went through this same thing with a 9-5 and nobody could figure it out until he replaced the DIC with a new one apparently that fixed the issue. Just a thpught

 

[IH_viggen]

Bought mine with it out too lol, been neglecting it but came around to sending it off to be repaired just a couple days ago.
I also just bought some MAF sensor cleaner, figured I’d start there since it seems to either just cut fuel or air because everything stays on besides the engine.
Unless the MAF is shot it should fix the problem atleast temporarily in theory, then if it starts doing this again later I’ll know.
I just throw it in neutral and restart it as I’m still rolling, it starts right back up everytime. If the ignition was going out wouldn’t the radio turn off?
The codes is where it gets interesting, the check engine light has been on since I got it throwing abs module related codes, Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit Low Voltage code, and Injector Positive Voltage Control Circuit Group 1 codes. There was two old DICs in the trunk of the car, ones labeled runs, I’ll try and swap that one in and see what happens. But recently, after fully removing the abs module, the check engine light will turn off for small amounts of time and the car will run fantastic, but inevitably it’ll come back on and my super sweet Swedish sports car is back to a disappointing gimp. Thank y’all for your help so very much, Saab definitely has the best community.

 

[Cloakedbug]

Sometimes if you are watching engine RPM using a tool or the SID you might see it go to zero (if it was a bad CPS). A working CPS should detect RPM change whenever you start cranking as well.

 

[IH_viggen]

Thank you all very much, I cleaned the MAF sensor and installed the new abs module and the car was running excellent. The check engine light just came back on, reading codes P1110 and P1300, but that’s the least of my problems now. I will probably make a new post for this issue but the key will no longer turn from the Lock position. It pops all the way up and down but refuses to turn. I’ve cleaned out the cylinder and tried wiggling the key and shifter with my foot on the clutch multiple times to no avail. This might be the most frustrating issue yet, I’ve never been denied by the ignition before lol

 

[BobSaabit]

Thank you all very much, I cleaned the MAF sensor and installed the new abs module and the car was running excellent. The check engine light just came back on, reading codes P1110 and P1300, but that’s the least of my problems now. I will probably make a new post for this issue but the key will no longer turn from the Lock position. It pops all the way up and down but refuses to turn. I’ve cleaned out the cylinder and tried wiggling the key and shifter with my foot on the clutch multiple times to no avail. This might be the most frustrating issue yet, I’ve never been denied by the ignition before lol

Try a spare key first.

Next try a massive WD-40 flush. Repeatedly. Towel around the console. Down the cylinder and under the edge with it popped up. Lube and wiggle, lube and wiggle.

Usually what happens is that the grease in there gets old and stiff and the bits stop moving. There are wafers for the key to move as well as as lever that controls the pop-up. Hopefully you can get it moving again. If you can get it to turn you will be able to remove it and clean it properly. If it won't turn after the WD-40, you'll need to use more severe measures and there's a lot more work involved.

 

[adidas_007]

If you youtube, saab 9-3/9-5 key cylinder, you'll find plenty of resources.

Other things to check out, vacuum lines, Check valves, the diverter valve, pvc system, a boost leak check. Check &/or clean the throttle body (I've had one fail without check engine lights, the wiring inside cooks)