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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here is the situation...I work at a Volvo dealership in VT. Took this car in on trade, and was a perfect cheap car for the wife so I bought it. Shortly after the battery was dying and it wouldn't start.

We do not have a GM scan tool but my tech did notice the alternator was pulling a charge from the battery so we replaced it. Didn't fix the issue, thought maybe it was the thrice module/corrosion causing electrical issues thus preventing fuel pressure. That doesnt seem to be the case. I put a new battery in...still doesn'nt start on occassion.

Seems everytime we fix what we think is the issue it will be fine for about 3 days then will not start.

Now I'm getting plenty of crank speed, definitely plenty of battery life. Just will not fire, and it is completely sparatic. We are thinking it may be either the crank sensor or fuel pump... but cant get into the diagnostic to pull codes, I would bring it to the Saab dealer but they are booked for two weeks. Can anyone suggest what may be the issue? Or if they have had something similar...

Thanks!
 

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Any aftermarket gauges with memory functions ? they can drain a good battery in 3 days. Whats the parasitic draw on the battery? It shouldn't be more than 0.1 A.
 

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Next time when your taking the key out of the ignition, do you notice the center of the barrel pop up? (It's kind of spring loaded).

It's happened to me where the center of the lock did not spring up upon removing the key and that let the power go to the various systems and the battery was drained. That maybe your problem too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any aftermarket gauges with memory functions ? they can drain a good battery in 3 days. Whats the parasitic draw on the battery? It shouldn't be more than 0.1 A.
The parasitic draw was coming from the alternator and was very low, I do recall the tech saying it was .1 or .2 A.

There is no longer a draw though.

How about the DI?
DI?

Next time when your taking the key out of the ignition, do you notice the center of the barrel pop up? (It's kind of spring loaded).


It's happened to me where the center of the lock did not spring up upon removing the key and that let the power go to the various systems and the battery was drained. That maybe your problem too.
I'll have a look at that but the battery is no longer the issue as it is brand new, it is still having the same starting issues it did before replacing the battery....I dont think that ever had anything to really do with what I think is an underlying issue.
 

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Now I'm getting plenty of crank speed, definitely plenty of battery life. Just will not fire, and it is completely sparatic. We are thinking it may be either the crank sensor or fuel pump... but cant get into the diagnostic to pull codes, I would bring it to the Saab dealer but they are booked for two weeks. Can anyone suggest what may be the issue? Or if they have had something similar...

Thanks!
If I'm not mistaken, a bad Crank Position Sensor really becomes noticeable after the car's been driven & hot. The crank but no start sounds like a bad fuel pump motor, mine did the same thing at 122K, fortunately it's easy to replace. You should be able to remove the fuel pump cover and listen for the sound of it's motor spinning, if you don't hear anything, it's bearings are seized and it's time to replace. Others here might be able to tell you if the fuel pump motor can fail in stages, mine didn't. I went out to the car one morning and it cranked but wouldn't fire. I replaced it and all was back to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If I'm not mistaken, a bad Crank Position Sensor really becomes noticeable after the car's been driven & hot. The crank but no start sounds like a bad fuel pump motor, mine did the same thing at 122K, fortunately it's easy to replace. You should be able to remove the fuel pump cover and listen for the sound of it's motor spinning, if you don't hear anything, it's bearings are seized and it's time to replace. Others here might be able to tell you if the fuel pump motor can fail in stages, mine didn't. I went out to the car one morning and it cranked but wouldn't fire. I replaced it and all was back to normal.
That sounds exactly like the issue I am having. I did get the car started this morning and brought it back into work, I'm going to have the tech take a look at it this morning.

Another issue is sometimes while at a stoplight the engine will just seize. Followed by not starting again. Seems as though when the no start happens if I leave it be for a day it will start again...but this only last for a day or two then back to the issues.

Sound similar to the situation you were having?
 

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Sounds like the CPS, now I wish I had saved my old one that was working when I replaced it at 122K. I would have sent it to you for free just to test yours. It's pretty easy to replace, especially if you have small hands. Beware of the CPS Sensors sold on EBAY under the name, "Hamburg Technic", the stuff is imported from China, then reboxed in Canada. I bought mine from eEuro parts for about $65
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds like the CPS, now I wish I had saved my old one that was working when I replaced it at 122K. I would have sent it to you for free just to test yours. It's pretty easy to replace, especially if you have small hands. Beware of the CPS Sensors sold on EBAY under the name, "Hamburg Technic", the stuff is imported from China, then reboxed in Canada. I bought mine from eEuro parts for about $65
So you're thinking its the CPS now over the Fuel pump motor? Or even the entire fuel pump assembly...

I have a good friend that works for Carquest, luckily I can get parts for this thing at his employee rate
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So are you saying you think it is now the CPS and not the fuel pump motor, or even the entire assembly?

Luckily I have a good friend that works at Carquest and can get me OEM at his employee cost
 
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