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You have to get at it from inside the door, remove the interior door panel, this info is from the WIS, it's pretty involved.

1.Open the window

2.Remove the door trim.

3.Remove the water separator carefully.

4.Remove the weatherstrip screw and lift away the strip.

5.Raise the window lift so that the window mounting becomes visible at the top edge on the lower large hole. The clips on the slide rollers will then become more easily accessible.

6.Detach the scissor-lift braces from the window mounting by removing the clips and then prising loose the braces from the rollers with a large flat chisel. Prise between the brace and the rail and close to the ball so the brace is not deformed.

7.Lift out the window by tilting up the back edge.

8.Knock out the steel cores from the rivets securing the metal finisher for the wire to the interior door handle and remove the wire from the finisher.

9.Drill out the rivets, lift away the metal finisher and unhook the wire from the lock.

10.Driver's door: Detach the guard by removing the rear nut for the handle and guard as well as the guard's screw.

11.Driver's door: Undo a section of upper window moulding and drill out the rivet. Loosen the bottom of the guide rail, 2 bolts.

12.Driver's door: Turn the guide rail forward and lift out the guard.

13.Undo the three screws holding the lock on the door.

14.Unplug the connector from the lock unit.

15.Detach the pull rod from the lock by turning the lock while unhooking the pushrod between the outer handle and the lock.

16.Lift out the lock unit.
 

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I know this topic has been open for a while, but I just did this for my '01 driver door. The WIS instructs you to drill out rivets but I was able to extract the cylinder WITHOUT removing any of them.

You need to remove the door trim & window. Lots of threads out there on this. If the door is off the car you can power the window motor with pins 3 & 4 near the hinges. I used a 18V power tool battery pack and some simple electrical leads with alligator clips.

Remove the T25 screw and two 10mm nuts (through holes in the panel) on the black molded plastic handle guard inside the door.

Unscrew the three T30 screws holding the door lock unit. You can also undo its connector and bend it aside. Undo the two 10mm bolts on the interior face of the door (lower left) that holds the window's metal guide rail in place. There is a rivet that holds this in at the top near the manual door lock under some weatherstripping...I was still able to bend the rail out at the bottom to get enough clearance to move things around.

With things loose inside, you can now sneak the specially-formed black plastic cover behind the handle out towards the middle of the door by some tugging from within (this piece might be a PIA to get back in without drilling out the upper rivet - not somewhere I ventured).

At this point it helps to have a T20 torx allen key. You now have access to a screw holding the lock cylinder (at about 4 o'clock) that can easily be undone with such a tool - since space is tight. With the screw out, place the car key in the lock cylinder and turn counter clockwise as if you were unlocking the door. At the same time, push the key into the door and the cylinder should dislodge. Find an angle which you can withdraw the key and you should then be able to walk the cylinder off the pushrod it's connected to. You're done!
 
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