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2000 Viggen Please Help

1253 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Deskmechanic
At long last I am finally going to ask for help. I bought my Viggen last fall, and I love the car to death but it has its share of problems. It has a stage 3 JZW tune, good for about 350 horse, idk though I haven’t dyno tested it and I bought it with the tune on it. JZW has apparently fell off the face of the earth and I think I’m having a problem with the tune. I don’t even know where to begin... so it recently has been acting super weird. I press the gas, and it starts slow. I’m thinking in my head that it usually has more power, then all of the sudden it lurches forward at what what its supposed to be doing. I keep the pedal down the same amount and it will oscillate between boost, cut, boost, cut etc. I recently got rid of the cold air intake I had put on it and that worked for like a week but now its doing it the same if not progressively getting worse. I notice also that when it is ‘in’ and I let off the gas it crackles and pops (really cool with the 3” turboback), but when its not at full power it won’t crackle, just sort of hums. Also, I notice that when I push the clutch in sometimes the revs increase a little, then hang there for a second before going down. This, as well as first being sort of hard to get into as well as my shifts seem to be getting less smooth, led me to believe that the clutch was on its way out, so I took it to a friend of mine and he said the clutch seemed tight. Took it to my mechanic and he said the same thing. I thought it may be a boost leak but a smoke test came up with nothing. So that’s my biggest problem. Second on the list is a list of parts I need but can’t find anywhere, hoping some of you guys might have some lying around. First one is the gasket for the MAFS, as well as the screws that bolt the plate into the air filter box thing. Another part I need is a little tiny clip that holds the diverter valve in place, see pic. I have a makeshift one in place right now. Also need to find the intake plastic piece that goes back from the diverter valve to the throttle, pic as well. At full boost the diverter valve pops out of it and I can’t seem to make it stay even with hose clamps and zipties like crazy. I’m probably missing some things but I’m sure they will come out when you guys ask me questions.

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How long is the crackle and pop? Do it have OpenSID? The reason I ask is that the pop and crackle duration can be increased intentionally by modifying the tune. If you have OpenSID and it has “Igna”, it shows the ignition angle and you may watch for this value when you let off the gas.

Or it might be that throttle cable is set way toooo tight so that when you let off the throttle it actually releases slowly


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First check for boost leaks for real. A smoke test will not check for a boost leak. That would cause it to run pig rich under boost, and for all sorts of issues to occur.

Whenever I have running problems with a turbo car that's the very first thing I check. Get a 3" adapter and pressurize from the MAF hose through the turbo, intercooler, hoses, etc. Pressurize it to 20 psi and listen/watch for leaks.

Second, it's impossible for the stock turbo to make 350 horsepower. It's just not possible for it to flow enough air at 6000 rpms to get there.

It's possible that your ECU is tuned for a different turbo or different wastegate actuator than what you are running now, and that is causing the problems you are mentioning.

Do you have a way to pull the file from the ECU?
 

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I'm not sure about anything else, but the RPM rev hang could be low transmission fluid. Have you checked it yet? If you don't know how, check the link below.
shameless plug for my YT channel lol -
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How long is the crackle and pop? Do it have OpenSID? The reason I ask is that the pop and crackle duration can be increased intentionally by modifying the tune. If you have OpenSID and it has “Igna”, it shows the ignition angle and you may watch for this value when you let off the gas.

Or it might be that throttle cable is set way toooo tight so that when you let off the throttle it actually releases slowly


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Okay, so I don’t know what OpenSID is, not sure if I have it or not. Recently it has been crackling as long as there is backpressure, basically indefinitely. It definitely pops more when I let off the throttle at high rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First check for boost leaks for real. A smoke test will not check for a boost leak. That would cause it to run pig rich under boost, and for all sorts of issues to occur.

Whenever I have running problems with a turbo car that's the very first thing I check. Get a 3" adapter and pressurize from the MAF hose through the turbo, intercooler, hoses, etc. Pressurize it to 20 psi and listen/watch for leaks.

Second, it's impossible for the stock turbo to make 350 horsepower. It's just not possible for it to flow enough air at 6000 rpms to get there.

It's possible that your ECU is tuned for a different turbo or different wastegate actuator than what you are running now, and that is causing the problems you are mentioning.

Do you have a way to pull the file from the ECU?
Okay so it probably does not make 350 then. That was just what the guy I bought it from said. I don’t have a lot of experience with high horsepower cars.

That is interesting you say that about the boost leak. I have noticed when i boost hard (and get a lack of boost) it smells like gasoline for the rest of the duration of the drive. And what is this tool you are using to pressurize the boost areas? This may well just be a boost leak, I have a few places in mind where they it could be leaking but I do not know how to fix them.

What would I need to get the file from the ECU? My dad has a few diagnostic tools if those work.
 

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Okay, so I don’t know what OpenSID is, not sure if I have it or not. Recently it has been crackling as long as there is backpressure, basically indefinitely. It definitely pops more when I let off the throttle at high rpms.
OpenSID is a function activated when tuning the ECU. It shows you many more stat of the car when running. Many tuner will enable it for you. You can try press the + and - button on the SID at the same time to see if some new values other than what you have seen on SID come up.
You can refer to this video:

But if you say it pops indefinitely, I don’t think it is tuned like that intentionally.

But still if you have OpenSID, it is worth reading the values to get more information.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The easiest/cheapest way to download the ECU file is to get a obd-link ex, trionic suite and either a spare ECU connector to make a bench harness or extend the CAN bus wires to the obd connector.

But first do a boost leak test. Buy or make something like this:

OK. I ordered this one; 3" TURBO BOOST LEAK TESTER - 30PSI Stainless Gauge Tbolt Clamps Fast & FREE SHIP | eBay Jesus that link is extremely long sorry. I saw that I need to take the oil cap off if I am going over 10psi, is there is anything else that could possibly blow up from my neglect/ignorance?
 

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no but start slow. Check at 5psi, then 10, then 15. What you are describing would be caused by a fairly major leak. Check the one-way valves in the PCV system and the evap system in particular.

Also for the Saab you need a 3" male or 2.5" female depending on where you connect. So you may need to go to Home Depot and get a fernco coupling or piece of PVC pipe in the right diameter.
 
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