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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 Saab 9-3 150k - Thoughts/Recommendatons on What-To Do Full Tune Up & Cleaning

Hi everyone,

We just picked up a 2000 Saab 9-3 "H" engine with 150k miles on it. I want to change all the fluids and clean the car up mechanically before handing the car over to my son.

After a few days of reading on here I figured I would ask you guys what you recommend and thought of the best things to do to get the car running great.

1. Wanted to do a Auto-RX Cleaning on the oil (Anyone have any tutorials on this?)(Want to also drop the oil pan and clean the mesh I read about)
1b. Ideally I want to take the valve cover off and see how the engine looks (I think I would need to get a new valve cover gasket)

2. Oil/Filter Change (Mobil 1 0W-40 4.2 QTS)

3. Transmission Fluid/Filter Change (No Specs yet)

4. Clean the Throttle Body

5. Change the Spark Plugs (Gap? Plug recommendations?)(Car currently has Champion iriduims 9001)

6. Change the Air Filters
(No Specs yet)

7. Run Seafoam in the fuel tanks & Run some into the PVC valve (Not sure where that is yet)

Any one want to chime in or add something? I am still working on finding some specs with what fluids and filters to get. Its hard to find consistent online info on this car.
 

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Skip step 7 and replace the fuel filter and gaskets.
Also you may want to see how she runs first any codes etc.
Firm believer in the oil pan screen clean though the top end is less important.
I would also look at the serp belt and pullys.
Good Luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Bluebird,

Thanks for your reply. Can you let us know which gaskets you mean?

I am going to reattach my odb2 to the car today.

Also I have read about dropping the pan on here and cleaning the oil pan and screen. This will be on my to do list. I am trying to find a tutorial and the an drop and the auto-rx cycles torun.

P.s. Do you happen to know if that pvc oil fix applies to this car?
 

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The fuel filter needs 2 brass and rubber washers. They don't always come with the FF when you buy it.
The T7 engine uses the #6 kit.
 

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First thing I would do is remove the Champions ASAP and replace with NGK BCPR6ES-11. The NGK work just fine with the DIC as other brands have a very bad tendency to throw all sorts of error codes.
 

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+1 on the PCV #6 kit. Eeuroparts.com has it if you can't find it elsewhere. They are also good for most of the stuff you need, although make sure them items show as "in stock". If not, whatever they have listed is BS.

+1 on NGK Copper plugs - google here for the number

-1 on Seaform or Auto-RX. Just do the pan and run a good oil

There's a sticky thread at the top of this forum "All things oil". Pan drop is in there along with the PCV#6 info. Also see the PCV#6 TSB in the GenuineSaab.com Tech Library.

Owner's Manual is here:

Get a Haynes Manual and/or the WIS. Google for subject "Haynes" and you'll find a post I made with an inexpensive supplier in the USA. WIS can be found on Ebay as "factory service manual".

Flush/Fill the cooling system when you have a chance.
 

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Even though this thread is fairly old, I am reading up because I recently picked up a 2000 9-3 with about 150k miles.

Just wondering if the timing belt should be changed at this mileage? I am trying to find out from the previous owner (friend of mine) if it has already been done.
 

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No timing belt, it's a chain and internal. You can check the amount of extension on the tensioner, but unless it's noisy, it's probably OK.

You do have a serpentine belt that should be changed every 50K along with the upper idler pulley. Easy DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I agree with Bobsaabit, at 150k I had some slack in the chain (same car). I'm at 200k now and I have to do mine. You should be able to hear the chain slapping a bit on the left passenger side top of engine when it first starts up. You could also take the top back covers off and check the slack like I have on the past, pretty quick on these cars.
 

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update

Hey Vacuum hoses should all be checked, especially the ones from manifold to the switch on firewall by brake booster. these make the fuel pressure regulator and turbo recirculater valve work . and the small white valve that goes to pcv inlet by valve cover. also the water hose the connects to transmission side of the cycl. head. these are all trouble spots. also the pcv hose that goes to the oil pan is usually bad..oh and look for valve cover leaks.
 

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Thanks BobSaabit, cloves, and saabturbo01 for all the tips! Especially also the extra info about the vacuum hoses, etc. In fact, this car has been sitting for 5 years - although it was running when my friend parked it. So I have not started it up yet. Waiting to do that until I have changed the oil, fuel filter, coolant, etc. Already drained the fuel and checked the fuel tank.

Follow up question about the timing chain-- The Haynes manual says the engine needs to be removed to change the timing chain. That's beyond my capability. But I will try to check it for slack per your comments above.

Any idea how many miles timing chains typically last? Or a recommended change interval? Could not find that information in the owner's manual or in the Haynes book.
 

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If the oil has been changed, the timing chain might be good for 200K miles. It won't break and cause catastrophic failure like a belt will. But it might get noisy and impair performance. There are some posts around here about removing the tensioner and checking the extension. If you look for a post by me within the last few months about the head job I need to do you will find some info on doing it and measuring the extension. It's easy to check.

You can change the chain by "rolling a new one in" without pulling much more than the tensioner and the valve cover as long as the guides are not too worn - or so I've been advised by others here. If you want to do it the official way, you need to pull the timing cover. That is hard in a T7 without pulling the engine, but some guys have done it by pushing the engine to the side a bit to get room. Details are beyond my knowledge.

I wouldn't be in a rush to worry about the chain... but check the tensioner if you are concerned. I don't hear of many replaced at 150K as a general rule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I believe it's a good idea to turn the engine over manually via the crankshaft. I would also take the dic out and spray some fogging oil in each cylinder before starting. You want to minimize possible damage to seals.
 
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