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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, the car continued to set a P0410 code and I ordered check valves and gaskets. The pump was still running then (June). What I should have done was unplug the pump as well since it does not affect performance. The check valves arrived today and I started pulling the car apart. I went after the valve on the firewall side of the engine first since I had good access across the right fender The best method seemed to be to use a 3/8 drive ratchet wtih a 10 mm on a 3 inch extension (can't find my 10mm in 1/4 drive). You snake the assembled ratchet under the valve and guide it with the other hand. There is only enough space for about 1 click per stroke. Once the bolt is loose, then you can work it out be hand. A magnetic probe is useful just in case it drops. I think that with an assistant, you could do the same with longer extensions fro under the car.
The next problem was getting the valve off the hose. On the V-6, the hoses are SHORT. The o-rings were also stuck after 113K miles. I finally figured out where the plastic rings were engaged and used pump pliers (overkill) to squeeze the rings. After a little twisting, the valve finally came off. It was all black inside. IMG_2253.JPG

To install the new valve, IMG_2255.JPG I used some dielectric grease on the inside of the hose mating surface. I little grease on the gasket helped to hold it in place as I maneuvered the new valve back in place. Reinserting the bolts was tricky, but is best done by hand with final tightening with the ratchet. The new valve looks great. IMG_2254.JPG

Next I tackled the other valve in the front of the car (driver's side). The access is a little better but you have to pull the battery and battery tray to get your hands and tools in. Again, it might be better from under the car with an assistant guiding tools. This one came out more easily and was as bad inside. Reassembly entailed the same process as the other valve near the firewall. IMG_2262.JPG

I pulled the SAI pump next and it is not pretty. :( It's shot like the one in the BMillar thread. IMG_2268.jpg I may try breaking teeth to balance it, but without the filter, it's not something I really want to use. If I can't find one used, I'll order it from the same place I got the check valves (Saab Parts on Line). The blob between the cover and impeller is what is left of the filter and some teeth. The pump is mounted with 10 mm long bolts and the cover is held in place with TORX screws.

I am planning to pull the neutral safety switch this weekend and clean/rebuild it. Will post something on that when I get done with it.
 

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Was this successful?

We're fighting the same battle in the same year/engine car. Were you successful in getting the code to not come back? Thanks for the extensive writeup, it'll be a big help when the time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
P0410 Repair was Successful - No CEL's since July last year

We're fighting the same battle in the same year/engine car. Were you successful in getting the code to not come back? Thanks for the extensive writeup, it'll be a big help when the time comes.
Next problem was a leaking coolant bypass valve. Took an hour to fix once the part arrived.

Working on fixing the rear third brake light assembly. I tried epoxy and it failed. Trying again and it is fails again, I'll go to screws as one person did. The part is $70 and I may have to spring for it. They changed it after breaking a lot of plastic tabs to a part with metal springs.
 

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would you be able to post the part numbers you got? I have a 2001 9-5 SE wagon that is throwing the same code. I went into the pump today and while the blades were spinning by hand with no resistance it doesnt seem to ever actually turn on, nor did it seem to have a filter. I haven't taken apart the valves to see if they need to be replaced, but judging by the way the actual pump is i assume they need to be changed too. Any intuition as to why it won't even turn on?? could this just be a computer or even a fuse problem instead of the valves?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Worth checking the air pump fuse in the driver's door jamb panel. It's the only 40 amp one in there.

If blown, probably need a new pump. Could always try a new fuse to see if it will run the motor. It activates for 90 seconds after a cold start and another time interval for warm starts.

Those filters are useless. Your air pump intake is on the driver's side radiator core support and has a rudimentary water separator. It shouldn't ingest anything that the foam "filter" would stop anyway. The filters disintegrate, get caught in the fan vanes and lock the rotor, ruining the pump.

Check valves are removed by two 10mm hex bolts per valve. Easy to clean them.
 

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You're right, the valves came off- not nearly as grimey as i suspected- i cleaned them up anyways and got them looking new. The pump itself did not have the filter but it also didnt seem like it got sucked in at all...there werent any pieces anywhere to be seen. I didnt bother putting a new one in, just cleaned it up a bit, rewired the connector and put a new relay in. Works perfectly now. If the code comes back I will replace the pump. Thanks for the advice!
 

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Worth checking the air pump fuse in the driver's door jamb panel. It's the only 40 amp one in there.

If blown, probably need a new pump. Could always try a new fuse to see if it will run the motor. It activates for 90 seconds after a cold start and another time interval for warm starts.

Those filters are useless. Your air pump intake is on the driver's side radiator core support and has a rudimentary water separator. It shouldn't ingest anything that the foam "filter" would stop anyway. The filters disintegrate, get caught in the fan vanes and lock the rotor, ruining the pump.

Check valves are removed by two 10mm hex bolts per valve. Easy to clean them.
you wouldn't have any idea as to why my cabin fans don't work do you? Defroster blows fine and I am able to toggle how high or low the fan goes. Drivers side temp is dimmed too but not unreadable. A/C doesnt work and I am unsure about the heat considering its already in the 90's by me. I figure the A/C is another relay that needs changing- but the cabin fans themselves are evading me, and I can't seem to locate if there are even fuses associated with it. I read somewhere on here that the fuse is shared with the secondary air pump fuse, so if that is the case, its a brand new fuse.

thanks in advance!
 
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