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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, I'm having some, hopefully, minor issues with my '99 9-3S. I'm not sure I'll be able to fix it in a timely enough manner to make it to work next week. So I was browsing the local classifiieds and found a 2000 9-5 SE with 162K with a mostly straight body and pretty clean interior listed for $700.

I went down and looked at it and it is pretty nice for the money but it has a few issues; a CEL with a misfire code (#2 Cyl) and when you slow down to stop the oil pressure light comes on and it triggers the warning chime. The misfire doesn't worry me too much as it's probably plugs or at the most a DIC. The oil warning does.

Since it had a new set of tires and the body is pretty straight except for one dent in the right rear door I figured it was worth the gamble and we agreed on $600. I only need it until the 9-3 is running or 2 months at most and figured it should last that long. After that, if it wasn't worth saving I could recover at least half my investment by taking it to the wrecking yard or actually make money by parting it out.

Any opinion on the oil light issue and whether I should fix it up and use for a spare car or just scrap/part it out and move on when I'm done with it?

EDIT: it's a 3.0L V6
 

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unless the oil isn't filled up and is significantly low, stay away... it could be the sensor but probably not...the oil light it not worth the hassle of dropping the pan, cleaning the screen and hoping the bearings are still in good shape. Unless you know what you are doing, it isn't a cost effective solution to your problem. You'd be wasting your money and the car will not last the 2 months you need
 

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unless the oil isn't filled up and is significantly low, stay away... it could be the sensor but probably not...the oil light it not worth the hassle of dropping the pan, cleaning the screen and hoping the bearings are still in good shape.
V6's don't have a sludge issue.

I'd figure out why the oil light comes on and just drive it.
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The oil light came back on the way home. Looks like I have a coolant leak too. At least there isn't any oil in it, that I can tell. It's not coming from the radiator more about right in the middle of the engine bay. I'm thinking a leaky hose. I'm going out of town did the weekend but the first chance I get I'll pull the plugs the deal around DCIs and see if the misfire migrates. #2 Cyl is close left as you face the car right?
 

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You should remove plugs and check them. From mem cylinder order is stamped on the inside case under the DIC. I bet two is covered in oil or is burned up.
 

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I missed the part where OP said it was a V6? I don't see it at all, are we making assumptions here?



It is possible that a missfire is causing a low idle that might trigger the oil warning light. Looks like OP has already bought the car so.... I would drop the pan as soon as I can if I intended to save it (if it is a 4 cyl). If it is indeed a V6, I would probably replace the sending unit for the oil pressure first.
 

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I missed the part where OP said it was a V6? I don't see it at all, are we making assumptions here?



It is possible that a missfire is causing a low idle that might trigger the oil warning light. Looks like OP has already bought the car so.... I would drop the pan as soon as I can if I intended to save it (if it is a 4 cyl). If it is indeed a V6, I would probably replace the sending unit for the oil pressure first.
I believe the 2000 9-5se are all v6 unless the non se version or aero models
 

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The oil light came back on the way home. Looks like I have a coolant leak too. At least there isn't any oil in it, that I can tell. It's not coming from the radiator more about right in the middle of the engine bay. I'm thinking a leaky hose. I'm going out of town did the weekend but the first chance I get I'll pull the plugs the deal around DCIs and see if the misfire migrates. #2 Cyl is close left as you face the car right?
The oil cooler can leak and may just be bad seal. Not an easy fix but doable and a common failure on the v6. Good info available here with a search
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Sorry guys, I haven't been getting notices for this thread for some reason. It is a 3.0 V6.

I've had some victories. I have defeated the coolant leak, heater bypass valve and the misfire, DIC. It has NGK plugs in it, I think I saw somewhere that they were factory for the later ones but that Bosch is factory for 2000s. Might this contribute to the misfire? It made a difference in my '99 9-3 when I swapped the Champions out for the factory spec Boschs. I can get it fully licensed now that the error code is gone.

I found 2 relatively fresh 9-5s at a local self-serv yard. Ended up with a bunch of spares and replacements for other minor issues including a good ACC.

The oil light is still around. I'm going to get the oil changed and maybe put some heavier weight oil in to see if that makes a difference.
 

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The oil light is still around. I'm going to get the oil changed and maybe put some heavier weight oil in to see if that makes a difference.

It is uncommon for the V6 to have oil starvation issues. It should be fairly robust. I once saw an oil pickup on a v6 so plugged with silicone from oil pan installation that it starved the motor of oil.



It would be worth verifying the condition with a known good gauge. From there I would probably still drop the pan and investigate. I'm not sure if the subframe needs relaxed for the V6 oil pan to come off or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It is uncommon for the V6 to have oil starvation issues. It should be fairly robust. I once saw an oil pickup on a v6 so plugged with silicone from oil pan installation that it starved the motor of oil.



It would be worth verifying the condition with a known good gauge. From there I would probably still drop the pan and investigate. I'm not sure if the subframe needs relaxed for the V6 oil pan to come off or not.
I ordered a new sending unit. When that arrives I'm going to take it to my mechanic and have him check the oil pressure then replace the sending unit if everything checks out. Then to tackle the AC.

On the subject of AC, I noticed this morning that hot air was coming out of the rear vents. I didn't have time to investigate thoroughly but I couldn't see any controls to the back on the ACC.

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Discussion Starter #16
So i searched the AC issue. I got the error code 3-13 on the ACC. I know the 13 code is stuck stepper motor. Does the 3 mean it failed 3 times or it's all 3 stepper motors?

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The first 3 should mean that there are 3 different codes. They should come up in sequence on the right side of the display. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

The rear vents don't have any separate controls, but the temperature is shared with the front seat passenger. If air is blowing out the rear vents between the front seats, pull the glove compartment out and look for a metal rod that runs down the passenger's side of the center console. That controls airflow to the upper rear vents. It's gotten disconnected on both of my 9-5s, and neither one had any airflow to the upper rear vents. There are also lower rear vents underneath each front seat.

If the rear vents (and the corresponding front vents) are blowing hot air when the temperature is set to something cold, then you probably have the infamous blend door issue, which is caused by either a broken blend door shaft, stop arm, or motor, or in the worst case, all three.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The first 3 should mean that there are 3 different codes. They should come up in sequence on the right side of the display. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.



The rear vents don't have any separate controls, but the temperature is shared with the front seat passenger. If air is blowing out the rear vents between the front seats, pull the glove compartment out and look for a metal rod that runs down the passenger's side of the center console. That controls airflow to the upper rear vents. It's gotten disconnected on both of my 9-5s, and neither one had any airflow to the upper rear vents. There are also lower rear vents underneath each front seat.



If the rear vents (and the corresponding front vents) are blowing hot air when the temperature is set to something cold, then you probably have the infamous blend door issue, which is caused by either a broken blend door shaft, stop arm, or motor, or in the worst case, all three.
Yeah, I was expecting 3 different codes too but the only one that showed up was 13. I did the diagnose cycle 3 or 4 times to make sure I didn't just blink and miss the others

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Discussion Starter #19
Progress;

I replaced the left rear window and actuator. It was bad when i got it but it started not staying closed.

I found a good SID, it just now thinks it's time for service. I plan in it bit not because it said so. This just after I bought one on fleebay yesterday. Figures.

I pulled some actuator rods and motors off a car this morning as well. I'll see if it will help with my ACC issues.

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The "Time For Service" message comes up periodically. You just need to hold down the clear button for a while to clear it. When you press and hold the clear button, it will first beep and display "cleared". Keep holding it down, and eventually it will beep again and display "service". Then the Time For Service message will be gone. It will also go away after you turn the ignition on and off about 50 times.
 
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