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Discussion Starter #1
My 2000 9-5 has blown the pressure hose, somewhere in the front section between the pump and the cooling loop that hangs down from the subframe. I bought a new hose set, which is a newer design that has a much longer cooling loop that spans the entire front of the car, and also includes the portion that goes behind the engine to the rack. The rear part of the hose looks like a major PITA to replace, since it goes right up against the firewall, above the subframe. I've heard that the subframe needs to be dropped to do that part of it. I'd replace just the front section, but the newer pipe design has the gender of the connectors reversed. If I replaced just the front part, I'd have to find a female to female metric coupler. Has anyone done that? Alternatively, has anyone replaced the rear section without dropping the subframe? I dropped it less than a year ago to replace the bushings, and I'm not eager to do it again, but I will if that's the only way.
 

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I'm pretty sure the subframe needs to be dropped to replace the rear portion, or at least I haven't read of anyone doing it any other way (and I did a lot of research when my line needed to be replaced)

I have definitely read of people getting all sorts of adapters to fit the connectors you're talking about, and a hydraulics store will typically help you there, and isn't a bad idea

Alternatively you can cut out the bad part and cut up the new line and fit with compression fittings, which I did for my car and it's worked fine for several thousand miles now (the 'new' line being off a parts car). But I would understand if you wanted to avoid cutting up a new part
 

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If I replaced just the front part, I'd have to find a female to female metric coupler. Has anyone done that?
I have done that, I went to a Parker Hydraulics store and they put together a number of compression fittings to make the junction I needed for just a few dollars.
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Discussion Starter #4
No luck at my local Parker store. The guy there referred me to another shop down south called Hatec, which is a division of Hansa-Flex, a German hydraulics company. I did some measuring last night, and what's interesting is that the new pipe with the cooler loop has an M18 male connector that connects to the rear part of the hose, and the old rear hose has a male M16 connector. I'll need a female to female reducer coupling. Interestingly enough, that exact part is present on the cooler loop. The front part of the power steering pipe uses two sizes of pipe, and they join them using two male connectors and a coupling. If I don't find the fitting I need at a hydraulic store, the right car might show up at Pick-n-Pull sometime. Does anyone know when exactly Saab switched to the large cooling loop that spans the entire width of the car? They have a chassis number split listed on eSaabparts, but who knows what year that was. both my 2000 and 2001 9-5s have smaller cooling loops that are only about a foot long.
 

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Pretty sure I had the larger coil (width of the car) on my '02 9-5. Definitely have it on my '03

I'd be weary about wasting time at a pick-n-pull because the power steering line in front is a common rust spot

I read somewhere about someone just deleting the whole thing, going straight from the pump to the rack. Worked out fine for them. They seemed to think the power steering line didn't actually need all that extra cooling...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fortunately we don't have a lot of rust here in Seattle, so I'm still hopeful that I'll find something that will work, even if it's just the coupling I need to connect the newer style front pipe to the old rear one. I checked out an '02 9-5 today at Pick-n-Pull, but unfortunately it had a V6 and a completely different power steering hose than my 4-cylinder. The V6 had the finned pipe on it with a different connection at the pump end.

My 1997 900 doesn't have a cooling loop at all, as far as I know. I'm not sure what's different about the 9-5 that made the engineers think it needed a cooling loop, or why they decided that it eventually needed an even bigger cooling loop.
 

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Bigger tires/more weight is my only guess

Maybe back in the day they had a few cases of pumps failing prematurely and narrowed it down to heat
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I finally found the section on replacing the pipes in the WIS, and apparently the subframe doesn't have to come off. They say nothing about disconnecting any suspension parts, and you just have to take off the exhaust, take the upper nut off of the rear engine mount, remove the rear subframe bolts, and loosen the middle ones. That doesn't sound nearly as horrible as I had feared. I may just go that route and replace it all.
 

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Jeremy:

You definitely do not have to drop the subframe but it is a royal pain to complete. The worst part is the rear connection to the steering rack. Loosen the two rear sets of bolts on the subframe and loosen the steering rack bolts. Install the new piping in one piece and install the rack connection first. It will be hard to start and be sure to not cross thread the connection. There will be only enough room for one hand. Tighten it down before snugging up the rack and subframe. Also on the hose to pump connection, again be sure to not cross thread the connection.
When I was done, I swore I would sell the cars, I have done three, before I did another one.
All that being said, I am selling my last Saab so maybe I won't do it again, just other problems with other cars; they all have them.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Vtsaaber, since you've done this, there's one step in the WIS instructions that aren't entirely clear to me that hopefully you can help me with. Step #2 is to remove the bolts that hold the steering column to the rack, and to separate the two. Did you separate the two, or did you leave the rack hanging, attached to the column, since you loosened the bolts holding it to the subframe? If I do separate the steering column from the steering rack, I'm not sure if the column has to be unbolted in other places to pull it out of the rack, or if there's enough slack in it to pull it out after removing what looks like the single bolt that clamps it to the rack.
 

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I have the same issue and just ordered the new hoses. I'm planning to tackle the project when they come in next week.

Have you tried removing the bolt (by rear engine mount) from the top (driver's side)?

There's a thread out there about using a 22mm ratching wrench to tighten the bolt. Planning to give it a try as well.

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I did unbolt the rack from the subframe, however, I did not remove it from the car or unbolt the column. The only thing unbolting it from the subframe and removing the back engine mount nut does is allow one hand to reach between the body and subframe to work on the banjo bolt for the rack to line connection. I did my work under the car with the car on ramps. Not ideal or comfortable. Unbolting the rack from the subframe and lowering the subframe allows for wiggle room on the assemblies to make it easier to start the banjo bolts so it is not cross threaded. I usually only loosen the middle bolts on the subframe and remove the back two bolts because I am chicken to do much more and still be under the car.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The subframe is one seriously heavy assembly. I've taken off a couple, and I don't really want to do it again. Since the rack is only held on by two bolts, I'll take those off tonight. I already have the rear subframe bolts off, and I removed the bracket on the transmission that attaches to the rear engine mount, so there's as much room back there as I've ever going to get. I should be ready to loosen the middle subframe bolts and lower it down a bit pretty quickly. I saw that the clamp bolt that attaches the steering column to the rack is in plain view down by the pedals inside the car, so I'll loosen that too.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have a couple. I didn't end up unbolting the rack from the subframe, and that worked fine. I just loosened the clamp bolt at the bottom of the steering column inside the car. I took the rear motor mount off, which made it much easier to get the rear pipe in position, but that also involved taking the bracket off the transmission that attaches to the rear motor mount. I had done that because I was replacing the heater valve and hoses with the set that eliminates the valve. I've been tackling a bunch of other projects at the same time as this, so another thing I did was to take off the oil pan. It was a PITA getting the hard portion of the pipe around the oil pan and on the other side of the stud that holds one of the clamps. Taking the pan off made that much easier. This is all for the rear hose. The front hose is pretty simple. You just unbolt it from the pump and from the subframe. The clamps on that part are by far the worst part of it. I have a 10mm ratcheting wrench with a pivoting head that helped out immensely. Without that, I'm not sure how I would have gotten to a couple of the clamp nuts. Possibly with a crowsfoot.
 

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@Jeremy R. - pulled everything apart only to find out I still have a connection issue. The 2 new hoses doesn't fix the initial connection problem. Only pushed it down the line.

FYI: The new intermediate pipe fitting (male) doesn't connect to the existing power steering hose (male)

I believe you replace your power steering hose, correct? Where did you buy the part. Have a part #?

*Anyone planning to work on the leaking power steering hose, check all the fittings before buying anything, regardless of the price. (aka Rock Auto return policy)
 

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It typically works best to buy both hoses, the middle joint never seems to come apart, at least in the cars from the northeast (rust belt). Put the two hoses together in the middle, finger tight, and install in the car as one hose but don't forget to tighten later.
It seems that the hoses changed at one point in the model years, not sure when, the middle joint is what changed if I have read other posts correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The pressure line is in two parts. There's the rear section, which runs from the rack to a point on the subframe right around the air box. The front section goes from there, loops around the front for cooling, and then goes up to the pump. Both of those sections are sold as a kit from Saab and from ProParts. I bought the ProParts version from AutohausAZ, which I may live to regret, or it may turn out to be pretty decent. It was right around $100. If you replace all of that, I don't see how there could be a connection issue.

Saab switched the gender of the pipe connections where they connect by the air box, probably in 2002, according to a previous poster who said that their 2002 has the newer style cooling loop that spans the width of the car. The original front section is no longer available, which is why both parts are sold together as a kit. The rubber section in the front part on my car rubbed on the side of the radiator and sprung a leak. Hopefully the new pipe is bent slightly differently, or I can protect the pipe better so it doesn't happen it again. It did take 225,000 miles for that to break, though.
 
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