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I suspect the bigger turbo is flowing more air than the MAF alarm is expecting. Have a look round and see what fuelling requirements your (modified) car has. Someone must have a similar tune to you and then you can compare.It's hard to tell from 5,000 miles away though :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The guy I bought mine from in Texas and drove back to michigan said the front end got bumped. While there are no visible signs on the car itself, the flywheel was ****. View attachment 269897
I know yours is a manual, so maybe something in there like throwout or the clutch pack went to **** because of the deer smack. Mine was acting the same way as you are describing. Hopefully after the rebuild is done its all good (crosses fingers) Is that turbo you installed an "upsize"?
Yeah
At first I thought it was the timing end, but once I got it home, I used a stethoscope to isolate where the noise was coming from. I pulled the engine, through the top mind you, to remove the flywheel. Since I already had the engine out, I decided to rebuild it to get another 161000 miles out of her. The engine is still in rebuild stage on the engine stand. If you want to check out the progress and process, I have it here:
www.youtube.com

Car Things - YouTube

www.youtube.com
www.youtube.com

Have an exceptional day 😸
My saab isnt nice enough to do any major surguries like that. If the motor has to come out then I'll be getting another one instead and keeping this one for spares.
And i dont think the deer hit caused internal damage, cause after i pulled the front out and replaced everything the car ran great untill the bearing on the stock turbo burnt up.
And yeah, the turbo I installed is bigger. Its got a td04 19t in it now and it originally had a garrett gt17.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
My first vote is #5 main bearing is now oval (closest to the flywheel) second, could be a thrust bearing on the crankshaft, allowing ‘crankwalk’ upon applying throttle....Third is a bent valves smacking into the piston crown
Oof.. Dont put those fears into my head lol
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Those are all good votes. If the car idles decent, enlistment of a helper to gently press the pedal while using a mechanics stethoscope could narrow down the location of the noise. When I went searching for the noise in mine, it made the noise continually, so I didn't need the helper, and narrowed it down to the transmission end of the block. With careful movements of the stethoscope and listening, I determined it wasn't inside the block itself. Hopefully Reno_2000_9-5se can do the same and narrow down the options as well. It sucks buying parts for things that aren't broken.
It only makes the noise if the engine has a load on it. When its in neutral and you rev it the noise isnt there so i dont think I'll be able to locate it that way :/
 

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And I thought Canadians were supposed to be nice AYYYY........ Go grab a double double from Timmys and chill......
Sorry I didn't see how your post was related to the op's thread and thought you were making money on the YouTube stuff, I tried to delete the post upon reflection right away but wasn't able to.

Tim Hortons sucks.
.
 

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That sounds like a pulley or something, not so much pinging or pre ignition to me.

Are you sure the noise isn't present when you rev the engine in park?

Can you post a video of what's going on under the hood when you rev it in park (or neutral if you have a manual)?
.
 

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It could be the chain doing the infamous "rubbing on the hardened/worn top guide" under the valve cover. As bob said, could also be a pulley.
 

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I listened to your video. The noise is slow enough that it could be a cracked piston crown, or a broken exhaust valve. The ECU is receiving way more air than it tuned for, & I believe your valves are very damaged...or perhaps a broken spark plug
Do a compression check and borrow or buy a bore scope to isolate which cylinder is not like the others
HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #33
That sounds like a pulley or something, not so much pinging or pre ignition to me.

Are you sure the noise isn't present when you rev the engine in park?

Can you post a video of what's going on under the hood when you rev it in park (or neutral if you have a manual)?
.
Well that would be a relief, but why would it only do it when the motor is warmed up?

And yeah, I can take another video tomorrow and give it a rev while its out of gear when it's light out.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I listened to your video. The noise is slow enough that it could be a cracked piston crown, or a broken exhaust valve. The ECU is receiving way more air than it tuned for, & I believe your valves are very damaged...or perhaps a broken spark plug
Do a compression check and borrow or buy a bore scope to isolate which cylinder is not like the others
HTH
Gaaah, I really hope not :(
Do you really think that my valves could be damaged just from the bigger turbo? I really thought the ecu limited how much boost was made and that it woulda held up as is untill I was ready to tune it for more power..

Also, I just replaced the sparkplugs maybe 5k ago so idk if one would be broken. But I'll check them and do a compression test, and I'll check the cylinders out with my scope.
I'll let you know what I find tomorrow
 

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Reno_2000 you are right about the boost control, SAAB ECUs are very sophisticated, the T7 ECU will control mass air flow so the bigger turbo is not able to supply any more air than the small one until you get it tuned. The ECU also monitors knock by reading ionisation across the spark plug gap after ignition and cuts boost then ignition retard if knock is detected.

By the look of your video the boost control is in order and not going into the red. It would hit the fuel cut if it were not controlling anyway (remove the wastegate hose and you’ll find out)

could it be a loose or worn engine mount? I can’t hear the sound very well in the video but if the engine is moving too much a pulley might be rubbing or some other part like exhaust rubbing somewhere? Try put it in gear while holding the brake and see how much the engine moves.

Hope you fix it soon the TD04-19t is fun when you get it tuned ;)

DC.

PS get a laptop and a CANbus cable and log some data from the ECU. Check out the Trionictuning forum if you don’t know how.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I listened to your video. The noise is slow enough that it could be a cracked piston crown, or a broken exhaust valve. The ECU is receiving way more air than it tuned for, & I believe your valves are very damaged...or perhaps a broken spark plug
Do a compression check and borrow or buy a bore scope to isolate which cylinder is not like the others
HTH
Also, wouldn't both those things constantly make noise and not just when the engine is warmed up and under load?
 

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Turbo detonation is really tinkly. It's a red top engine I think and you can make them ping... Pulley? would find at idle. Alternator one way bearing... possibly. But don't think you have one! Pistons or valves? Probably noisy at idle.

So: bypass valve lifting and chattering? Wastegate chattering?
 

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I would go and find a reputable Saab shop and have them listen for what's going on.

The fact is that there's no obvious easy answer. It can be hard enough to diagnose a sound when you are actually at the car, never mind over the net using youtube videos.

Everything posted in this thread is guesswork or speculation (including mine).

I would start with the assumption that, if the motor worked fine before, it should work fine now. I would also carefully at whatever was disturbed to make sure that there's nothing loose or rattling. While the problem is probably not horrible, I'm not going to say "ignore it, it's probably no big deal" because maybe it is a big deal. We just don't know.
 

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Black top.Thanks :)

Noted that T7 is open(ed) source code if the OP does need a remap (at little or no cost).
 
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