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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, so I recently installed a td04 19t in my 2000 9-5 2.3t, when i got around to taking it down the road it felt great untill it warmed up a bit, upon which I seemed to loose a conciderable amount of power and it developed a metalic chattering noise while accelerating under load. Also I should note that I can feel the chatter just slightly through the clutch pedal. Also when the engine is not under load and I rev it up alittle I dont get the chattering. Any help on what this could be would be highly appreciated. My guess is I've either developed a knock or something already is fucked up in the turbo I dropped into it. I'd love to be wrong about both of those guesses though...
Thanyou
 

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Does it idle smoothly?

What else was done beside installing the turbo?

Does the chattering affect the power output?

I don't know why you'd feel it through the clutch pedal. Maybe the pedal always has a bit of chatter.

If you're lucky, it's just something loose or rubbing when the engine is torqued over on its mounts.
 

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If it's like a clinking or tinkling noise that goes away when cold or backing off the throttle then you have really bad pre-ignition. The noise is the piston crowns deforming and it will only be a short while before one throws in the towel.

Did you up-rate the fuelling when you fitted the bigger turbo? I suspect not! :)
 

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P.S. Pull a plug out. if it is white or (worse) white and powdery then it's definitely pre-ignition. If a healthy coffee brown then probably not. I've seen the outer electrode melt off in really bad settings also with aluminium splatter on the insulator (vaporised aluminium). Saabs do protect themselves, but if there ain't enough fuel to feed the new monster you have created, then like said monster it will go out in a blaze of glory :-O

Pre-ignition is knock at low levels. Making vibration through the clutch pedal is self-destructo-impendo. There isn't an anti-spell to that apart from the greasy dollar (lots of them). Drive like miss Daisy if you have to use the car, otherwise treat her like a terrorist with an exploding belt and a glint in her eye!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it's like a clinking or tinkling noise that goes away when cold or backing off the throttle then you have really bad pre-ignition. The noise is the piston crowns deforming and it will only be a short while before one throws in the towel.

Did you up-rate the fuelling when you fitted the bigger turbo? I suspect not! :)
Err, that's exactly what it does... ****.. I thought that without a boost controller or a tune to turn it up that I'd still make the same amount of boost as I did with the stock turbo. I guess I was wrong, eh?
What can i do to fix up the amount of fuel the motor gets? Im not all to versed in turbo cars or tuning for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
[QUOTE="hunt.dogshome, post: 642894

Pre-ignition is knock at low levels. Making vibration through the clutch pedal is self-destructo-impendo. There isn't an anti-spell to that apart from the greasy dollar (lots of them). Drive like miss Daisy if you have to use the car, otherwise treat her like a terrorist with an exploding belt and a glint in her eye!
[/QUOTE]

Do you think the motor might be near its end? Or would I be able to save it still by replacing the rod bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does it idle smoothly?

What else was done beside installing the turbo?

Does the chattering affect the power output?

I don't know why you'd feel it through the clutch pedal. Maybe the pedal always has a bit of chatter.

If you're lucky, it's just something loose or rubbing when the engine is torqued over on its mounts.
It idles fine, before the turbo I did alot of collision repair work on it since the previous owner smoked a deer with it. And it seems to loose power when the chattering starts. I already checked to make sure it wasnt just something that was loose or rubbing.
 

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Noooo..... Don't run it whilst making that noise! Saabs are tough, if it's quiet at idle and just revving it up a bit out of gear then you probably got away with it. Needs a remap for the bigger turbo. That involves reprogramming the ECU. You can get these by post if you say what mods you have, or DIY if into electronics, or at a tuner with a rolling road. Only the DIY option is going to keep the dollars in your pocket.

Someone with a similar setup and has DIY'd will hopefully chip in (no pun intended) and say what map and or injectors etc you might need. If it's a standard wheel turbo, a standard map with that type in it might work. If it's a special, then ask the question in the performance section.

Don't run it, if you have to, then keep it really (really) gentle like you have eggs on the hood and no brakes!

Did I mention the chattering is the piston crowns flexing?.... When they let go, they really make a mess. Pistons, rods and block - if you are lucky. Also head, valves, oil pump and crank if unlucky. "grenaded" is an appropriate description.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Can you post a video with sound?
Id really hate to drive it and make it make the noise if I'm damaging it while doing so. Ive been reallllyy light on the the throttle lately to avoid it. If i take it into town today for any reason I'll try though. There's a hill i have to go up so its kinda inevitable
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Noooo..... Don't run it whilst making that noise! Saabs are tough, if it's quiet at idle and just revving it up a bit out of gear then you probably got away with it. Needs a remap for the bigger turbo. That involves reprogramming the ECU. You can get these by post if you say what mods you have, or DIY if into electronics, or at a tuner with a rolling road. Only the DIY option is going to keep the dollars in your pocket.

Damn... I was hoping to avoid all that..
A friend of mine who works on giant turbo systems suggested that I get a wideband o2 sensor along with an actual boost gauge and a controller that way i know exactly what its doing and can keep it in a safe range. Would that be sufficient, or is getting it remapped something that is something i cant avoid?

Btw i had the thing scanned lastnight and I've got a map sensor code. or possibly a maf.. I forget now... Danmit. I'll rescan it later and let you know which one but it was one of those. Could either of them be part of my issue though?


.
 

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Jeeze, sounds like it could be a nightmare of a project if thats the case
At first I thought it was the timing end, but once I got it home, I used a stethoscope to isolate where the noise was coming from. I pulled the engine, through the top mind you, to remove the flywheel. Since I already had the engine out, I decided to rebuild it to get another 161000 miles out of her. The engine is still in rebuild stage on the engine stand. If you want to check out the progress and process, I have it here:
www.youtube.com

Car Things - YouTube

www.youtube.com
www.youtube.com

Have an exceptional day 😸
 

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Seems like a thread jack and self promotion to me.
.
it isn't a thread jack, and what's wrong with a little self promotion? The channel isn't monetized either, so what would thread jacking and self promotion do? Absolutely nothing. I figured SOME people might want to know how to fix a Saab, and save money. If you watched some of the later videos in the playlist you would realize this, and see some helpful things for working on your own car, but instead you probably just saw the link and commented like an "armchair critic". And I thought Canadians were supposed to be nice AYYYY........ Go grab a double double from Timmys and chill......
 

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My first vote is #5 main bearing is now oval (closest to the flywheel) second, could be a thrust bearing on the crankshaft, allowing ‘crankwalk’ upon applying throttle....Third is a bent valves smacking into the piston crown
 

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My first vote is #5 main bearing is now oval (closest to the flywheel) second, could be a thrust bearing on the crankshaft, allowing ‘crankwalk’ upon applying throttle....Third is a bent valves smacking into the piston crown
Those are all good votes. If the car idles decent, enlistment of a helper to gently press the pedal while using a mechanics stethoscope could narrow down the location of the noise. When I went searching for the noise in mine, it made the noise continually, so I didn't need the helper, and narrowed it down to the transmission end of the block. With careful movements of the stethoscope and listening, I determined it wasn't inside the block itself. Hopefully Reno_2000_9-5se can do the same and narrow down the options as well. It sucks buying parts for things that aren't broken.
 

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It idles fine, before the turbo I did alot of collision repair work on it since the previous owner smoked a deer with it. And it seems to loose power when the chattering starts. I already checked to make sure it wasnt just something that was loose or rubbing.
The guy I bought mine from in Texas and drove back to michigan said the front end got bumped. While there are no visible signs on the car itself, the flywheel was ****.
269897

I know yours is a manual, so maybe something in there like throwout or the clutch pack went to **** because of the deer smack. Mine was acting the same way as you are describing. Hopefully after the rebuild is done its all good (crosses fingers) Is that turbo you installed an "upsize"?
 
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