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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, New owner of '94 900SE, GM 2.5L V6. Heard heaps about the oil problems, but it's not always obvious which engine is being discussed. How does the GM 2.5L V6 stack up with regards to sludge, oil pressure problems and noise?
Mine has 153000KMs and is noisy. although performs well.
Cheers.
 

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The sludge is a 4 cylindre problem and mostly on the newer T7 engines that didn't have a PCV system update although other 4 cyl engines were affected to a certain extent as well.

Your engine type has diffrent problems though with regards to the timing belt and tensionner issues as well as a leakycooler that causes an early Head gasket replacement to be able to access and replace it.

The timing belt and tensioner need to be replaced regularly and religiously or an engine replacement if neglected.

Also since you're in Australia and you have a RHD car, you may want to inspect the bulkhead for cracks. Those would be repaired by SAAB at their own cost under a recall.
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70836

Was the fuel pump ever replaced?

Good luck :cheesy:
 

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Welcome to SaabCentral, Slimey

Assure that your timing belt and its tensioner are fairly new...
Assume nothing here, some just renew the belt and ignore the tensioner and the cover seal - another potential problem...
GM has improved the tensioner in later models(Saturn,Cadillac, Opel ??).
I do not know if the better parts can be retrofitted, but this is something to investigate.
The noise must be eliminated, it may or may not be serious...
 

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All the muck and rubbish in the V6 is to be found lurking in the thottle body,TC body and the intake manifold, i'll open a photobucket account so you can have a look at some pictures of mine before and after a clean, its unbelievable what the rebreathers throw back into the engine.

Keep an eye on those cam belts and when its time for a change go to any of your G.M. Holden dealers they'll do it for half the price of the Saab.

Cam covers are plastic and will expand at a different rate to the engine,pull the plug leads and look for telltale oil puddles around the plugs,try to get a set of metal Vectra cam covers (ebay or scrapyards) to fix this.

Good luck with it, given a little tlc the engine isn't half as bad as some folk will tell you...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your prompt and informative replies.

hkayssi; I'll get the oil and filter changed this week and have her listened to by a specialist too. The 80k service was done by a SAAB specialist but I cant assume the timing belt was done. I'll have that done by 160k. Ref the leaky cooler, do you mean the oil cooler? What symptoms would show a problem here?
I don't know if the fuel filter has been changed but I hope somewhere along the line it's been done. What's your concern here?

Earthworm; I'll have the specialists listen to her and see if a better tensioner is available, thanks for the advice.

Pete67, thanks for the advice re the GM prices. I'll have a look at the plug leads tomorrow when the sun's up. I look forward to your photos with interest. I've haven't had as much interest in a car for years til I picked my SAAB up. Does that mean I've got the SAAB bug?
Great network.
 

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Slimey said:
Does that mean I've got the SAAB bug?
Im afraid once you've got it there's no known cure:cheesy:
If your oil cooler does fail you'll find oil in the header tank mixed with the coolant
Don't be too worried about the head gasket needing to be replaced if the oil cooler does fail, it can be removed and replaced without disturbing either head, its a pain to do as its buried at the base of the V under the intake, fuel injectors, and other various gubbins, it does give an opportunity to get the injectors and air intake cleaned up though while your in there.

If you get a chance to drop the oil and change the filter this weekend, try to change the fuel filter at the same time, wouldn't hurt to drop a new air filter on as well.
Out of interest is it a manual or auto box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's a 5sp manual. I will get the other filters changed also this time and will have the full 160K service done in another 5000KM. :D
 

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I just bought the same car two weeks ago. I love it, but there are definitely some minor issues. The valve cover issue is definitely something to watch out for - on Friday my car failed to start, and when I took off the engine cover and looked at the plugs, they were covered in oil. From what I've heard, the oil cooler leaking would be indicated by oil in the coolant tank, of which there is none, so I'm 75% sure that's the culprit. At least it's on the front bank and I don't have to take the intake (although I really should check out the rear), and more importantly I won't have to pay that extra labor (I'm reasonably sure I could do the job myself, but I don't have the time/tools).

I did some scouring on eeuroparts.com, and although I'm not sure if they ship to Australia, they have a timing belt update kit listed. If I'm not mistaken (which I very well may be - this is my first Saab), that'll lessen the chance of timing belt pulley failure. All I know is that from now on, whenever I change timing belts, I'm going to at least thoroughly inspect the tensioners. I had a 1993 Subaru, and the timing belt tensioner pulley went bad about 200 miles from home. Even though the belt didn't break and it's (apparently) a non-interference engine, it would have cost too much to fix for it to be worthwhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked the coolant and no oil. I'll get that engine cover off soon.
Thanks for the link, one local SAAB repairer quoted me $800AUD for the tensioner alone! I'll add that site to my favourites.:D They do ship internationally but I have to make sure the Aussie version is compatible with the US model which is the one they service. I will post when I get the cover off.
 

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If you guys do decide to fit the metal cam covers ( and they really do fix the leaky cam seals forever) you wont be able to fit the plastic cover back on the engine, the oil filler cap is in a slightly different place, but you wont miss it...
 

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Pete67 said:
If you guys do decide to fit the metal cam covers ( and they really do fix the leaky cam seals forever) you wont be able to fit the plastic cover back on the engine, the oil filler cap is in a slightly different place, but you wont miss it...
That's enough of an excuse to clean off the engine a bit. You said the cam covers from the later 3.0 V6 would fit? Seems kinda strange that they would fit both engines. And they won't interfere with the manifold on top of the rear bank?
 

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Their a perfect fit and don't foul the intake at all, i've got them on my V6 and they really do put an end to the leaky cam issue.

If i can ever get photobucket to work i'll post some pics...
 

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Pete67 said:
Their a perfect fit and don't foul the intake at all, i've got them on my V6 and they really do put an end to the leaky cam issue.

If i can ever get photobucket to work i'll post some pics...
Well, I just ordered the gasket set from eEuroparts.com, and it arrived in record time. Do you happen to know the torque spec for the stock valve cover? Is there anything I should watch for when disassembling it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I removed the engine cover this arvo and checked the front bank; no oil leaks; great news. I see that the rear bank is another proposition. How long does it take to remove all that stuff and get access to the plugs?:confused:
 

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cachaa said:
Well, I just ordered the gasket set from eEuroparts.com, and it arrived in record time. Do you happen to know the torque spec for the stock valve cover? Is there anything I should watch for when disassembling it?
Only 6lbs/ft or 8nm, not much at all...
 
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