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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Please excuse my ignorance, but what is the benefit to deleting the balance shaft chain & tensioner?

Also when removing the engine, do I have to take out the engine harness with the engine like the Haynes manual would have me to?
I don't see why you'd have to take the harness out? I'm unclipping what clips need to be unclipped.

If you do a search on it here, or in google or at saab link you will find a more detailed explanation.

I don't mind a bit of engine vibration, and I like less to go wrong in the timing cover - I've done this with another car - a 4g63 engine though.

The key is to make sure it is done properly so that oil pressure is not affected.




Don't know why I didn't realize this sooner - but since the engine is seized I can't count on the power of the starter to help crack the flywheel bolts.

Any other suggestions for cracking them?

Looks like alternative is to take tranny out as well.
 

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Any other ideas on how to get at the flywheel bolts - I can't turn the engine remember.
mmmmmm , in that case , your going to have to take the engine and trans out together.

then after you have taken out eng/trans , then take the trans of , and there MAYBE , enough room to slide a spanner down between the flex plate and block... i am not shure on this though...

more than likely your going to have to find out what caused the engine to seize , i.e if bearings spun, then remove conrod cap and fix, or if it piston seized , remove head , undo conrod cap, then belt piston out....etc.............
 

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I don't mind a bit of engine vibration, and I like less to go wrong in the timing cover - I've done this with another car - a 4g63 engine though.

The key is to make sure it is done properly so that oil pressure is not affected.
I've read that removing the balancer chain on the 2.3L produces noticeably more vibration in the car as opposed to the 2.0L. In any case, genuinesaab.com sells a cheap part to take care of the oil pressure if you do remove the chain.

Good luck with the flywheel bolts, sorry I don't have any advice there... sounds like a mess though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I've read that removing the balancer chain on the 2.3L produces noticeably more vibration in the car as opposed to the 2.0L. In any case, genuinesaab.com sells a cheap part to take care of the oil pressure if you do remove the chain.

Good luck with the flywheel bolts, sorry I don't have any advice there... sounds like a mess though!
I can't edit my original post to add unfortunately.

To do's while replacing engine:

2. balance shaft chain & tensioner deleteproduct here

6...
Yup got it!
 

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Saab engine pulling

First I have pulled the 2.3 and the easiest way to pull the engine is with the transmission and engine dropped down with the subframe then separated now you can lift it out the top the trans will roll to the floor, it is possible to remove the transmission leaving the engine in place disconnect it and with the subframe down it will separate and roll down to the right. The subframe is the key because the oil pan and transmission sit right above the subframe and there is no room to seperate engine and transmission without the subframe lowered. I have lowered a 2.3 from above very easy with cherry picker I will attach some pictures. it is alot of work to remove this engine but not bad installing afterwards
 

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Tranny is two options


1: engine plus tranny out the top, you need to pull the axles from the transmission (drain it, plug the hole on the drivers side) and take the crank pulley off. Pretty steep pull, a load leveler is nice otherwise put a chain across the two pulling eyes and put a long bolt about 4" from the timing end of the engine to pull the right angle. To make it a little easier take the mount of of the top of the transmission (the thing with the big bolt that goes through the transmission mount)

I'd do this if you think there is something else you want to do to the engine, i.e. if you think you might want to do the timing chains.

2: out the bottom, leave the engine in the car. Make a beam out of 2x4 and wood to support the transmission end of the engine. Take the subframe out and then pull the transmission out. need a transmission jack. putting it back you need to make some pins that fit into the top bolts to "hang" the transmission from as you're putting it in. Cut the heads off of two bolts, cut slots in them to fit a screwdriver to tighten and to take out.

I'd do this if you think it may be time for subframe bushings since you have the subframe off anyway.
 

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flywheel bolts

I don't see why you'd have to take the harness out? I'm unclipping what clips need to be unclipped.

If you do a search on it here, or in google or at saab link you will find a more detailed explanation.

I don't mind a bit of engine vibration, and I like less to go wrong in the timing cover - I've done this with another car - a 4g63 engine though.

The key is to make sure it is done properly so that oil pressure is not affected.




Don't know why I didn't realize this sooner - but since the engine is seized I can't count on the power of the starter to help crack the flywheel bolts.

Any other suggestions for cracking them?

Looks like alternative is to take tranny out as well.
I will use a metal punch or strong screwdriver put it through a hole on the flywheel and loosen them up if this does not work drop the subframe alittle remove the oil pan and put a hammer handle to wedge the crank from moving then loosen them and if you have the oil pan off for sure clean to sump oil pick up screen this is the major cause of engine failed from sludge and timing chain tensioner debris
 

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First I have pulled the 2.3 and the easiest way to pull the engine is with the transmission and engine dropped down with the subframe then separated now you can lift it out the top the trans will roll to the floor, it is possible to remove the transmission leaving the engine in place disconnect it and with the subframe down it will separate and roll down to the right. The subframe is the key because the oil pan and transmission sit right above the subframe and there is no room to seperate engine and transmission without the subframe lowered. I have lowered a 2.3 from above very easy with cherry picker I will attach some pictures. it is alot of work to remove this engine but not bad installing afterwards
Not true, you can pull the engine out the top and leave the transmission behind, with the subframe in place. (Automatic only, the Standard has to come out with the transmission attached if you're pulling from the top)

You have to unbolt the torque converter and then pop the rubber plug in the bottom of the transmission to push the torque converter away from the flex plate. (I bolt a piece of bent metal to the bottom of the transmission and through that hole to keep the torque converter in place when pull ing the engine.

Disconnect the motor mounts, take the transmission mount out, push the engine and transmission over toward the drivers side.

Now unbolt the lower alternator bracket/mid-shaft bracket from the engine. One of the bolts is a pain to get because the halfshaft is still in place. you're going to leave that part behind.

Take the AC compressor off so you don't have to evacuate the system, it can stay behind. Same with the power steering pump Finally the crank pulley has to come off.

Now lift straight up, push the engine away from the transmission and up it goes. it's quite remarkable what can stay on the engine, pretty much everything except the PS pump, AC compressor and the lower alternator/mid-shaft bracket. It helps to remove the big aluminum bracket that attaches to the back motor mount since it's so damned big. Watch out for the vacuum connections on the firewall as you're going out and back in.

(but if the engine is seized you'll never get the torque converter unbolted from the flex plate!)
 

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not true

Not true, you can pull the engine out the top and leave the transmission behind, with the subframe in place. (Automatic only, the Standard has to come out with the transmission attached if you're pulling from the top)

You have to unbolt the torque converter and then pop the rubber plug in the bottom of the transmission to push the torque converter away from the flex plate. (I bolt a piece of bent metal to the bottom of the transmission and through that hole to keep the torque converter in place when pull ing the engine.

Disconnect the motor mounts, take the transmission mount out, push the engine and transmission over toward the drivers side.

Now unbolt the lower alternator bracket/mid-shaft bracket from the engine. One of the bolts is a pain to get because the halfshaft is still in place. you're going to leave that part behind.

Take the AC compressor off so you don't have to evacuate the system, it can stay behind. Same with the power steering pump Finally the crank pulley has to come off.

Now lift straight up, push the engine away from the transmission and up it goes. it's quite remarkable what can stay on the engine, pretty much everything except the PS pump, AC compressor and the lower alternator/mid-shaft bracket. It helps to remove the big aluminum bracket that attaches to the back motor mount since it's so damned big. Watch out for the vacuum connections on the firewall as you're going out and back in.

(but if the engine is seized you'll never get the torque converter unbolted from the flex plate!)
Sorry i forgot to mention pulling a engine with 5 speed gearbox but my comment stands! and not true if seized pull oil pan and disconnect the piston rod caps and then push up as many pistons as possible and then it will turn! one way or the other.
 

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easiest with a tilter, take off the hood shocks and tie to hood back all the way, take the radiator and fan shroud out also..
 
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