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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Is there a FAQ guide on engine removal out there?

I have ordered the factory WIS, but want to start the work asap.

I've found the oil pan removal FAQ & it has great photos - I will be doing this 1st to see if engine if able to be rebuilt.

Thank you for your time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
after getting in there I wonder:

Is it possible to take the engine out the top & leave the tranny in?
 

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I found it easier to take out both the engine and tranny together.
You will need an engine tilter as the crank end has to come up first.
Remove the crank pully for a little extra clearance.
 

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The axles will need to come out if you take it out with the tranny attached, plug the drivers side tranny axle opening, I used bubble wrap pushed into the seal, worked great.
Either remove the hood or disconnect the pistons and prop it all the way open, I tied it open over the car to the rear tiedown under the bumper.
If you are taking it out with the engine harness attached you will need to remove the windshield wiper arms, and the plastic cowl, then disconnect the large connector on the passenger side and the body connector in the center of the fire wall, also the lead that goes over to the air mass sensor and drape it over the engine.

Disconnect the tranny cooler lines from the tranny, oil cooler lines from the engine, crank pully, remove the rear engine mounting bracket from the rear mount and tranny and let it hang, it will fall out once you start lifting.
Remove the down pipe from the turbo and remove the rubber mounts that hold up the pipe after the cat and gently move the pipe to the side, I would tie it up so you don't stress the flex joint.
Remove the wires to the alt and starter, it also connects to a bracket below the tstat, remove the battery tray and disconnect the connectors to the transmission, remove the transmission gear selector cable.
I would remove the neutral safety switch from the tranny as it gets hung up on the frame as it comes up.
I left the AC comp and power steering pump connected to their lines and just hung them out of the way, I left the intake/exhaust/turbo/alternator/starter/intermediate shaft all attached to the engine.
Attach the lift, take up the weight and remove the right and left mounts.
You will need to disconnect the intercooler hoses, turbo cobra pipe, top and bottom coolant hoses, coolant overflow and heater hoses, ground wires on front and drivers side of the tranny, front tranny mount (down low where the ground attaches, remove the whole thing, (3 15mm and 2 10mm bolts)

Slow and easy as it comes up, adjust the tilt, raise it a bit, make sure you are not hung up on anything, repeat.
The final angle is pretty steep when it finally clears, watch the intake manifold as it gets hung up on the brake master cylinder, especially when going back in.
Don't forget to disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body;oops:.

I'm doing this from memory, so forgive me if I missed anything, just go slow and look for anything still attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you sincerely for taking the time to type that out... I'm already in progress on the car and everything ^ seems to make sense.

Do I need a puller for the crank pully or is it a bolt?

TY!
 

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its 11 months since i did mine and i made 1 mistake, i undid the driveshaft boots to split the shafts but i didn't need to, they pull right out of the gearbox on the left and out of the horizontal shaft on the right, leave the horizontal shaft bolted to the engine, i dropped the lower steering joints for clearance for the shafts. The angle to get the engine out is pretty steep, i didn't have an adjustable hoist but used a towrope and knotted it in various places to achive the lift.

good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, lots of the little stuff done, I'm going to try to leave the tranny in.

Have to see what happens.
 

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after getting in there I wonder:

Is it possible to take the engine out the top & leave the tranny in?
hi, yes it is possible to take the engine out thru the top, WITHOUT the transmission.. fair bit fiddly, but saves you quiet a few hours, .. you dont have to pull out cv joints, disconnect cables etc... there should be some pics on this forum when i did it.
mark k
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Made lots of progress last night - got stopped at the quick connects for fuel lines,

Have to pick up the special tool for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Anything I should be replacing while I have the engine out?

Heater bypass valve, pcv update, turbo swap... anything else?
 

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Check rod bearings, main bearings, timing chain, balance chain, and chain guides for wear. All should be really easy to change if needed with the engine out of the car. You'll need a female torx socket (not exactly sure on the size though) to remove the main bearing caps. Not something people often have in their tool set so just letting you know.

Good luck, hope all turns out well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cousin has the female torx set since he works on other gm cars. Weirdest thing ever.

I was also going to do the serpentine belt and go the short route and eliminate the middle idler pully
 

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Nate,

Just a suggestion, but some pictures of your project would make an excellent addition to these forums. Good luck on your engine pull!

-Ty
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I can't edit my original post to add unfortunately.

To do's while replacing engine:

1. Sump Clean & inspection
2. balance shaft chain & tensioner deleteproduct here
3. New Timing chain & new Chain tensioner (Cheapest chain seems to be rock auto $58.79)
4. Short accessory belt change
5. ..
6...
 

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I can't edit my original post to add unfortunately.

To do's while replacing engine:

1. Sump Clean & inspection
2. balance shaft chain & tensioner deleteproduct here
3. New Timing chain & new Chain tensioner (Cheapest chain seems to be rock auto $58.79)
4. Short accessory belt change
5. ..
6...

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is the benefit to deleting the balance shaft chain & tensioner?

Also when removing the engine, do I have to take out the engine harness with the engine like the Haynes manual would have me to?
 

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The harness connects to the body in two places so it's easier to disconnect them rather than disconnecting and tagging all the various sensors.
 
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