[c900]

It's the right seal, and it was installed flush. But clearly something happened that I didn't expect.

The other side of the assembly looks like this - completely nice and clean.

https://flic.kr/p/2ojW9Ck
Dark area is the shadowing of my tablet when taking the pic.

 

[c900]

This is the current packaging look for the 'Indian head' shellac type sealant. I'll use this with the new seal.

Permatex® Original Gasket Shellac Compound, 2 OZ – Permatex

www.permatex.com

 

[jvanabra]

You should need nothing with the new seal. That's the job of the coating on the seal.

 

[AUSSIE900]

Yep , insert dry .

 

[c900]

The old seal was easy to remove and the new one was easy to fit, but I've read anecdotal reports of the opening in the housings being just slightly too large and the seal not having the right amount of 'fit'. So I'm using the Permatex stuff.

Especially since when I did fit it last night with the permatex stuff applied, I pushed the seal in, and it pushed right back out half way all by itself. I'm not saying that wouldn't have happened if the permatex stuff wasn't used.

Overnight I've had some weight keeping it in as the permatex stuff fully cures. Oil pump assy will go back in today.

 

[jvanabra]

It sounds like maybe the oil pump housing is damaged, or the seal is poorly manufactured. I've done this 50 times and never had one move after installing.

 

[c900]

It's a brand new Victor Reinz seal of the later revised part number shown in EPC (see the earlier pics) not the original part-numbered one (but I have a new one of those also). Housing is not damaged. I can only report on what I find as I'm doing the stuff.

This is the setup while the Permatex stuff sets up - small wood block and two small rubber wheel chocks.

https://flic.kr/p/2ok5dGj

 

[c900]

Ah the fun and games continue. Here is the CPS assy from the 2.1 with the 'grafted in' Bill at Saabits rebuild kit.

Under it is the genuine Honeywell brand new 4AV-19F hall-effect sensor element, and notice the wiring is shorter. This is not something I'd noticed until now when I was going to start re-making the assembly.

I'm using 3-pin Deutsch connectors to replace the volvo 3-pin ones, so it's fully possible to just make the assy short to match the length of the new sensor's wires, and create a plug-in extension to get back to the proper length. 19F is spec'd to have 600 mm wire lead length.

I've included my tape-measure to show the lengths. And I found the spare CPS assy I have as a spare which is direct unmodified original from a c900 for comparison at the bottom.

I'm not sure why I re-made the top one to be longer.

https://flic.kr/p/2ok6HNy
I believe the CPS used with B202's in 9000's is identical to the C900 one (same p/n etc.).

 

[c900]

Pics no longer work as the censorhip gronks at Smugmug / Flickr deleted my account without any warning (that I received). Sorry. I don't have my own photo hosting site and Flickr's is good despite the shady commercialised admin practices.

Anyway I ended up using the sheathing from a spare original CPS (chopped off the Volvo connector) because the new sheathing I'd bought is too big an ID to fold neatly into the 'chicane' of the cast sensor housing. It has one little torn area (where it would have been rubbing on the corner of the engine) that I've wrapped with Tessa harness tape.

The spare assembly the sheathing came from will be rebuilt with new stuff as well and as my 9000 uses the same sensor I'll have a spare for it too.

Something I noticed - the new Honeywell sensors have wire that is a bit smaller grade than original. Doesn't seem to be an issue and the Deutsch connector terminals crimped on well with stranding twisted and folded back on itself.

 

[jvanabra]

What is a dark boho mofo?

 

[c900]

DBM is just a descriptor for me and my place in my life and the world.

So rebuilt sensor is in. I tightened up the water pump bolts. Pulley is in. Bentley says for 2.1 the crank pulley bolt should be done up to 129 ft lb.

 

[c900]

Got 2.1 sedan's motor back together to try and run it. The oil pump primes just fine so that's good but the engine won't fire. I'm betting the issue is the new hall sensor in the cps but not sure yet. Will try to test it next chance I get. I didn't get time to try jumpering the fuel pump to test it that way.

Otherwise I can put back the previous cps (with the saabits rebuild kit) that I took out thinking it's probably the issue and see what happens.

Only getting 12231 codes from the ecu.

Don't have money to renew the rego right now so just frustrating.

 

[c900]

The mystery deepens.

I've now tested the frankensensor and the one I made up with the new 4av19f and both function 100 pct - almost 0 volt with nothing in the sensor and 5 v with the sensor space occupied. Measured between pin 24 and 10 of the EZK box connector.

So the no-start must be something else. No idea what. Too hot outside now anyway. I don't have a spare EZK box to try a simple swap of that, but I do have a spare -024 ignition amp.

 

[c900]

So today I've reconnected the new CPS I installed and plugged the EZK box back in (I still have the wiring connector for it apart to access the terminals), and the car started up straight away. It's run for about 30 minutes without any problems idling. EZK was just sitting on top of the radiator support with wiring connected.

I have not touched anything else electrical in the engine bay other than unplugging the AMM and removing it to get room to remove cover over the clutch for fitting the flywheel look, the wiring to the CPS and getting access to the EZK box connector wiring to do the CPS function test. Can't take car on road yet as rego has run out. I have another (new oldstock bosch omg) AMM I want to test out but now the car is running so I'll put the EZK box wiring all back in place then try the AMM.

It's revs vary a bit as the o2 sensor output swings and the ECU responds, but I think that's normal for the LH 2.x setup? When the ECU drops the revs the motor sounds a bit rough, then they come up again. It's only varying between 50 and 100 rpm with the swings. My multimeter was showing the O2 output not swinging properly after about 15 minutes of idling but there was no CEL to indicate the ECU was unhappy with it.

So I still really do not know definitively what was making the car randomly stall when driving last year which was the reason I stopped using it and parked it up as all the symptoms and stuff I've looked at only appeart to provide circumstantial clues.

The discovery of the failing crank pulley seal on the oil pump assembly was a fortunate side-effect though so I'm glad about that and saved would could have been a more major failure had I never investigated the CPS aspect.

So it might have been the CPS (due to all the metal bits, oil, dirt etc inside the pulley from the failing seal), or it might have been the EZK box (perhaps it has got some bad solder joints), or the wiring for either (connections just got loose over the years). Or the AMM.

Hopefully the car passes a rego inspection flawlessly then at least it's usable on the road again.

 

[nanookvd]

Valve cover, timing chain cover, head gasket, or crank seal.

That gunk shouldn't compromise operation but might shorten the life of the sensor. Hot oil or rubber on there won't make it last longer, that's for sure. The Hall sensor is a magnet, and it looks like you've got some filings fur on there too.

An additional source of an oil leak is the tensioner underneath the a/c compressor. I found the gasket between the tensioner and the head had compressed over 25 years and no longer provided a seal allowing oil to leak down the "front" of the engine.

 

[c900]

Do you mean the timing chain tensioner? Is the washer/gasket for that a fibre one or something different? The valve cover gasket probably needs replacing too once I get one. I found a little bit of oil leaked out down into the centre space of the head where the spark plugs live.

Deleting AC (re thread about that) is still on the cards.

 

[jvanabra]

It's a bonded washer on the bottom and an o-ring on top.

Idle should be steady.

 

[c900]

I thought the same re idle but this car has always seemed to hunt a little at idle. Never really concerned me though it could be partly contributing to the operating issues. is there any particular part of the control system that's more likely than the others to be a factor? The 02 sensor is relatively new (last 2 yrs).

 

[AUSSIE900]

Clean and lube the AIC

 

[c900]

Well what I did find was that the AIC was mostly clean, but a little spray with cleaner never hurts.

I put a replacement (new genuine don't ask what it cost!) AMM in for the second test-run and it seemed to idle better.

I also checked the EZK PCB for any sign of bad solder joins (esp around the main connector) over lunch and couldn't find anything concerning that warranted attention.

For anyone who's not see the EZK pcb out of the case before, this is it:

https://flic.kr/p/2oogZ9Q
Still no more sure of what the random stalling fault was caused by last year. But the engine has run fine both times I've had it going for about 30 minutes each time today. No conking without warning. Could simply have been bad elec connections however had I not delved deep I'd not have found the oil seal fault or the 'corrupted' CPS and could potentially have had a much bigger problem.