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2.1 c900 cutting out and stalling randomly with no warning while driving

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My 2.1 c900 sedan has started to stall and cut out seemingly randomly while driving to work today. I made it to work but didn't have any time to try and do a field diagnosis.

I had to block traffic at a cpl of sets of lights when it died while not moving. I know it could be all sorts of things. It seems to crank ok but acts like cyls not firing then comes good only to buck again. If I'm moving at a decent speed it fires and will keep going then repeat.

I replaced crank sensor last yr. Don't have a spare AMM in car. Hopefully won't require a tow to get home at 10 pm.馃槈 drove car without a problem this morning to drop daughter at preschool fortunately.

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And the car behaved faultlessly on the drive home just now. no cutting out of any sort. Thank my Saab for getting me safely home at night. But that makes me think what's going on is temp-related.

Got a few tips on things to check from Steve at Saab Salvage mostly electrical, and i've thought of a few more. In the morning I will see what codes (if any) the ECU gives me after 1231 'no rpm'. Steve said I should check the system relay as they can wiggle out of their socket connections and give strange open-circuit or just bad high-resistance connections. Fuel pump and system relay are the same part number. I'll do the usual checks of all the engine electrical connections in the daylight.

Anything else other 2.1 owners could suggest to look at?
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Without being willing to put the diagnostic time in you can throw parts at it. A hall effect is a good bet.
Without being willing to throw parts at it you can tow it to where your other Saabs that don't run are and get on with your life.
Thing don't repair themselves and unless you are willing and able to put the time and effort into finding the culprit nothing will change!
 

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I would personally not solder unless you are really good at it... Fine gauge wires get brittle and you may just create a future problem in a hard to reach place.

I use


and marine grade heat shrink.

If you get a crimper from a good brand you'll be fine. I like Klein but there are others. For me, the clue is whether the tool has a spot for insulated AND non-insulated use... Probably if that's a feature it's a good tool.

There are some photos here of what that repair could look like:

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
With the new sensor element I won't be soldering this time. I've got a good crimper for non-insulated terminal coming (what's recommended for splice crimps). The sensor element supplied in the Saabits kit is quite short leaded so the wire joins are in a spot that's a bit awkward. The new sensor elements have full length leads. I would like to get some spare connectors in any case as this car (and my 9000) are full of the volvo-style bullet type connectors and they're all pushing 30+ yrs.
 

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With long leads, I would install a weather-pac (Delphi) connector and if the leads a like those in Jvanaba's slip them into some heat shrink to make a cable of the three leads. The connector allows for quick checks and also is sealed and supports the wire end at the connection.
You don't have to use Weather-pac, there are a lot of good connectors on the market these days, but would want sealed and supported.
 

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Strongly agree about using a modern connector. Weatherpack is a good system, albeit bulky. I would probably recommend the newer Metripack system... which I guess is also old and bulky compared to modern systems, but it's cheap and commonly available. Something like this:


You can still buy those Saab/Volvo connectors if you really want, but they are pricey and annoying to deal with as they can't be made at home.
 
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