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Discussion Starter #1
Almost finished dropping this bad boy in...TD04HL-20T custom built.

IMG_20130912_212139_322.jpg


Going to be running it on E85, and still running a block off plate in place of the the diverter valve to keep using the Synchronic BOV. Here's a pic of the Linear Garrett GT2025, the Arc TD04L-14T, and my new TD04HL-20T, all together for size reference:

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And the Turbine wheels (kinda hard to tell the size by the angle...but it's a noticeably big difference)

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I'll be trying to make it into a dyno some time next week when I get some free time ;ol; I'll post a pull video up here when everything is all tuned up and adjusted
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you worried about reliability or breaking anything in the transmission with the 20T?
I'd probably break something else before the trans...if I launched it all the time I would be concerned about the axles, but I'm looking into that, along with poly mounts soon too
 

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Good stuff man, where'd you get the 20-T built again?

Honestly I think your block and your tranny will hold fine, I've never seen anything to tell me different except for people who haven't pushed something to it limits tell what they heard on the internet... like that french model...

I'd keep close eye on those EGT's though.
 

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I'd probably break something else before the trans...if I launched it all the time I would be concerned about the axles, but I'm looking into that, along with poly mounts soon too
You are probably right. I saw a video posted by GS on youtube where they shredded the axle. I believe you have the F35 tranny right? I am not familiar with the specs, but I just looked up the limits via wikipedia:

"The GM transmissions are usually numerically designated in newton metres that means F35 is rated at 350 Nm, the weaker rod shifted SAAB version of the F35, the F25, at 250 Nm, F40 at 400 Nm, M32 at 320 Nm, and so on."

But I haven't heard of many people breaking these trannys. Are you going to do anything to the internals? New pistons or rods?

Good stuff man, where'd you get the 20-T built again?

Honestly I think your block and your tranny will hold fine, I've never seen anything to tell me different except for people who haven't pushed something to it limits tell what they heard on the internet... like that french model...

I'd keep close eye on those EGT's though.
Personally if I hit 300hp, I would want to, at a minimum upgrade the pistons/rods. I have only heard that the block is rated for 300hp with stock internals. I am not mechanically inclined yet to do a piston swap or take apart the head. But I'd love to learn because I am paranoid with preventative maintenance. :cool:
 

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Exactly, you have only "heard" that.
However its been proven MULTIPLE TIMES that the block can handle 350 to wheels (easy 400hp)
 

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Yeah, but I am the type of person who would rather play on the safe side and look at the long-term. I don't doubt the block can handle 400hp, but for how long? ;)

My saab now is a daily driver and one day I'd love to gut it and turn it into a track car. Just not now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Down the road I'll probably invest in the engine, next thing I'd like to do is replace the mounts and bushings, and LSD.

That is... when I get it running. Almost finished the swap, and I broke the damn coupler for the coolant feed that I was taking off my old td04...its always the little stuff :evil: lol but i'm swinging by the dealer or jegs or somewhere after I get off tomorrow, so I can pick up a new one and finish this up
 

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Down the road I'll probably invest in the engine, next thing I'd like to do is replace the mounts and bushings, and LSD.

That is... when I get it running. Almost finished the swap, and I broke the damn coupler for the coolant feed that I was taking off my old td04...its always the little stuff :evil: lol but i'm swinging by the dealer or jegs or somewhere after I get off tomorrow, so I can pick up a new one and finish this up
Engine mounts and suspension bushings? I would love a quaife...

I hate it went that **** happens. I was doing brake lines (not on a saab) and kept having to buy special parts. :evil:

The stock TD04-14t just has oil feeds, not both right? So you had to slice them from somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Engine mounts and suspension bushings? I would love a quaife...

I hate it went that **** happens. I was doing brake lines (not on a saab) and kept having to buy special parts. :evil:

The stock TD04-14t just has oil feeds, not both right? So you had to slice them from somewhere?
Both the garrett and the td04 have oil and coolant lines, feed and drain for a total of 4.

So apparently the coupler on the back of the turbo (coolant feed), is a 12mm x1.25, screws into the turbo, and the banjo bolt feeds into that...That is what allows the coolant line to actually reach the port on the turbo, otherwise it would be blocked by the compressor housing.

Went to NAPA, IPS Motorsports, Home Depot, local hardware store, didn't have anything. Then went to the dealer...there is apparently 1 (one, yes ONE) of those by part number in circulation across the entire US, it would have taken a couple weeks to get it.

Sooo....I had to improvise. Went to Jeg's and bought fittings and made a custom braided stainless coolant feed.

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Have the day off tomorrow, and have the whole day to get it fine tuned ;ol;
 

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Did you go through turbo lab? They upgraded my compressor wheel to a billet 50x61mm wheel which is slightly larger than the 20t with the HL wheel and HOLY **** does it pull lol i'm still tuning it, figuring out some limp mode issues with JZW but it's awesome lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
nope, actually picked it up from a local guy, this one has the billet 20T compressor, HL turbine wheel, alloy thrust bearing and gapless rings, so the turbo itself should last a hell of a lot longer when its being pushed hard

what's putting you into limp mode?
 

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any info on where the turbo was assembled? the brand and exact size of the compressor wheel? is the cold side ported?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
58mm exducer, 47mm inducer, compressor housing is ported as well as the turbine housing to fit the HL wheel. Not sure the brand of the wheel or where the work was done, bought the turbo as it was, but it was originally a td04L-14T before it was upgraded.

*UPDATE*
Was hitting 26psi earlier today...2nd gear isn't near as limited as before, and when it hooks up, starts to put you back in your seat a little bit now. This tune is pretty mild to start out with, but still a lot more power than the last setup I was running, which was supposedly 327/395 at the crank...Looking at hopefully getting everything dialed in on the money here throughout the week when I have time, and I'll post a video when people get out of the way and give me enough road for a 3rd gear pull :cheesy:

Then dyno time mid next week!
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Well...postponed the dyno schedule. Was blowing hoses and enough was enough. Was also burning a little oil, and made a HUUGE production out of a few small things.

-Rebuilt the turbo to check for any seals that were bad or causing oil to be burnt...turns out the seal on the turbine shaft had a lot of play in it and was causing the problem. Replaced all the other seals and o-rings and fixed 'er up.

-In the process of making aluminum hard pipes for the whole system to help with air flow, get rid of the rubber hoses that were cut to fit the FMIC, and reduce the amount of clamps and weak spots. New pipes are 2.5" except for the aluminum pipe that is going around the oil pan, and before the throttle body where I'm going to remount the MAP sensor. Trying to have a shop roll beads on all the ends so the damn things don't pop off any more.

-Made a custom braided oil drain line because
1) Stock one sucks and doesn't seat to the pan and it will sometimes leak a little...

2)Aftermarket REALLY sucks because it has the same design as the stock one, but with 3 bends in the line instead of 1...each bend restricts the flow of oil back to the pan, since the only thing draining the oil is gravity. The new line has no bends and is a straight shot to the pan.

3)It's also a larger diameter at -8AN to allow more oil to travel back quicker, since the turbo is operated at higher pressure, and brings in more oil than the 14T. Also been reading up about people modding the td04's, and a common problem is oil backing up do to the sizing of the drain line, or the design being too restricting...this results in the oil not being able to drain fast enough, where it can blow back past the sealing rings which then necessitates a rebuild...hopefully that will all be avoided now.

4) Looks pretty nice ;ol;

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I got all the stuff from a local shop and am fabbing it all up myself...taking my time with everything to make sure everything is 100% perfect. If you guys are interested in an oil line (or coolant line or f**k, any line... lol) I have a bunch of hose left and can either whip some up for people, or I'll just buy more connectors and make braided lines for the other 2 I haven't done yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tmart less dyno. More pulls. Give us some 1/4 mile 0-60 etc even if its with torque app only. <3
WELLL you'll have to wait til it's running again :cheesy: and I don't have torque so 1/4 and 0-60 are N/A. lol Because I want actual numbers and not butt dyno's from a passenger, I should probably get torque anyways. Been wanting to, just havent ordered the obd connector
 

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-In the process of making aluminum hard pipes for the whole system to help with air flow, get rid of the rubber hoses that were cut to fit the FMIC, and reduce the amount of clamps and weak spots. New pipes are 2.5" except for the aluminum pipe that is going around the oil pan, and before the throttle body where I'm going to remount the MAP sensor. Trying to have a shop roll beads on all the ends so the damn things don't pop off any more.
Instead of finding a shop to roll beads onto your piping why not fabricate and do it yourself....heres a easy how to
 

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Discussion Starter #20
hmmm well looks like something else on my to-do list ;ol; I've seen that before, but it's probably worthwhile now that I think about how much cheaper it would be most likely...

btw that guy looks like Steve lol
 
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